Stripped stud on bottom of Header
#1
Stripped stud on bottom of Header
Hi. Was just changing the two gaskets between my header and the pipe that turns and goes under the engine. The connection is with nuts to three studs that are part of the header. Two of the three are on tight. The third stud's threads have stripped so the nut no longer tightens.
I was looking for solutions.
Option 1 was to use a socket type tap and effectively tap the stud and put on a slightly smaller fastener.
Option 2 was to take the stud out. Probably best solution, but if I snap the stud I am screwed.
Any words of wisdom, techniques to get this working? This particular stud has no easy way to soak it with pb blaster. I don't think it will be easy to get a torch down there.
Thanks !!!
I was looking for solutions.
Option 1 was to use a socket type tap and effectively tap the stud and put on a slightly smaller fastener.
Option 2 was to take the stud out. Probably best solution, but if I snap the stud I am screwed.
Any words of wisdom, techniques to get this working? This particular stud has no easy way to soak it with pb blaster. I don't think it will be easy to get a torch down there.
Thanks !!!
#2
Option 1 has the least amount of risk. If the threads are not too bad, you may be able to use a die with the original thread pitch to fix the threads.
If you go with option 2:
You will probably have to remove the exhaust manifold to get at the stripped stud. I would use a vice grip and give it one good twist to see if you can break the stud loose. I would spray PB blaster around it to help remove the stud. I would not use leverage on the stud. I find that sustained leverage (like using a cheater pipe) on something like that will snap off the stud.
If you go with option 2:
You will probably have to remove the exhaust manifold to get at the stripped stud. I would use a vice grip and give it one good twist to see if you can break the stud loose. I would spray PB blaster around it to help remove the stud. I would not use leverage on the stud. I find that sustained leverage (like using a cheater pipe) on something like that will snap off the stud.
#3
Removing the manifold from the head you might risk the same thing with those studs up there.
PB Blaster should wick upwards into the threads but give it a day or 2 to soak in.
Once you break it loose, try to work some oil in there too. PB Blaster isn't a very good lubricant after you initially break it loose. Light oil (sewing-machine oil) might wick in there easier than engine-oil. Work the stud back & forth (not just straight out) to get the oil up in there.
PB Blaster should wick upwards into the threads but give it a day or 2 to soak in.
Once you break it loose, try to work some oil in there too. PB Blaster isn't a very good lubricant after you initially break it loose. Light oil (sewing-machine oil) might wick in there easier than engine-oil. Work the stud back & forth (not just straight out) to get the oil up in there.
#4
First thing I'd do is to get a set of easy-offs and try removing the stud. I got a set from Harbor Freight that worked great for me. Soak it from the top with brake fluid - if it's like my '99. On my 99 I can see the top of holes. If that fails removing the manifold may be the best/fastest solution. Trying to put a die in a die holder down there does not sound good. I would not worry too much about the mani removal, the nuts are softer than the studs, but be carefull nonetheless. Soak'em in some brake fluid. I removed mine at 160K and 12 yrs w/out problems. Once the mani's off, then I'd drill from the top and tap to the same size and install a new stud. If you don't have access from the top snap the stud and drill from flange side.
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