Symptoms:
Runs fine when cold and first starting in the morn (anywhere between 58 and 70 degrees outside). Drives fine till it's warm and the car is stopped and restarted.
In the stuttering state it won't idle without missing cylinders below 1.2k. When starting out in first gear it stutters till 1.5k-2.5k depending on load and then all cylinders come on fine... as long as I don't ask for to much power.
Once above 3k all is well. Asking for power is no problem. Drop below 3k and stuttering commences.
I drove it from Olympia to Berkeley in this state and remains consistent in behavior.

Car history:
Dad bought it from first owner at 220,000 miles. Replaced engine at 275,000 with one from a car with 80,000 on it. (he loved that car). He died and it sat off and on over 2 years with the last sitting about six months... after which this issue appeared.

Parts replaced and checked:
Valve cover gasket (There was oil in the plug holes)
Distributor cap and rotor
Fuel filter
ICM
Throttle position sensor tested good
Plugs and wires a year old.
EGR checked
Fuel pressure in spec.

There are no codes. I'm usually pretty good at diagnosis but this one has me stumped. I've seen people on this forum with similar problems but not the same (one was close enough that I tried what they did with the ICM but that was a sad waste of $58)

Which way do we go George?

 

So you never have issues with the car during a drive after a cold start?

The next time you do a hot restart, pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for about 30 seconds. Try starting the car and see if you still have the issue. This will clear programmed radio stations, and I think it will reset the clock.

 

Do I start, then pull? Pull then start? Start, stop, then pull, then start?

I guess I could try all permutations.

:O)

 

If you always have the problem after a hot restart, just pull the fuse for 30 seconds, then reinstall. Then try starting your car to see what happens.

 

The car sat for 6 months? Can you rule out stale gasoline? (or have you used up the fuel & refilled the tank?)

 

Ok. Back to this project.

Jim... I drove it from Washington State to Berkeley CA.... so gas, fuel filter definitely replaced.

PAHonda... That fuse thing did nothing. Replacing the computer did nothing. Pinching hoses that are part of the smog system does nothing. I'm truly at a loss as to my next step.

Please help.

:O)

 

Seems to me a TPS issue or O2 sensor. I'm leaning towards TPS because I've seen TPS test good voltage wise but once pulled out it was bad.

 

Seanjordan20,

Wouldn't the o2 sensor bring up a code? It's listed in code values.

How, once it's pulled out would you know it was bad other than testing it electrically?

 

Yes it you should get a code for the O2 but things happen in cars that don't trigger codes but the issue is there.

The TPS could be bad on the end you can't see. Pull it off to see if everything looks good and intact like it should. With the TPS being bad you should get P0120-5 code but what you are describing is what it does when it's going bad before you get a code. You would still test the correct voltage because of where it's set.

 

I agree with Sean, there are many items that can set a code, so don't assume it is a bad O2 sensor.

I have a checking question. Is your shuttering issue gone, and now you only have the non-working tachometer in the cluster?