1997 Honda Accord



I have a 97’ accord and the taillights and not working, and neither is the dash. This includes the instrument cluster, the a/c dials. I have an aftermarket radio aswell and it works fine. For the taillights, the normal running lights on the taillights don’t work but the brake lights do work. I bought the car with both of these things not working. I’ve already tried switching out the dimmer switch and the bulbs to no luck, aswell as the fuses are not blown. I’ve been reading a lot but I have not seen a clear method on how to fix this problem. It would be greatly appreciated if you can help me figure this out. There is also a check engine light on the car but I’m pretty sure it’s not an issue that is causing these lights not to work

 

The check engine light won't have anything to do with the lights being out. Your accord has an obd2 connector behind the ashtray if you have a scanner.

Lets start with the simplest test on the interior lights. You'll need a volt meter or a test light. Unplug the dimmer swtich. Set the meter to 20V DC. On the dimmer switch electrical connector, touch the red volt meter lead to the red/blk wire, and the black volt meter lead to the blk wire. Just have car running and turn on the headlights.

Repeat the same test, but move the black volt meter lead to a bare metal bolt on the body nearby.

Let us know if you have 12V for each of these tests.

 

I can just get any multimeter to be able to test the voltage on those two wires right or does it have to be a specific type.

 

Any multimeter will work.

 

So, when i tested the voltage on the red/black wire to the black wire and the ground it didnt even give a single voltage of power. So what are the next steps that i can do to possibly fix this?

 

Just to be thorough, use your multimeter to measure the voltage on the battery just to make sure your multimeter is working properly.

The next easiest step is to test the fuse that powers this circuit. Open the engine bay fuse box, find the #32 15amp fuse. Using the multimeter, touch the black lead to battery - post. Touch the red meter lead to each metal tab on top of the fuse. Do both tabs have 12V? Seach DIY: How to Test Fuses on youtube. Just use the volt meter like he uses the test light to test for voltage.


If the fuse checks out good, then you'll have to test at the combination light switch. Google CD7_CD9.pdf to find sites where you can download a 94 shop manual for free to see how to remove the steering wheel cover. Unplug the connector for the light switch, test for voltage on the red/grn wire using a good ground like before.

If you have 12V on that wire, you have two tests to try. Plug in the combi switch connector and try to measure voltage by pushing the red meter lead into the back of the red blk wire (backprobing). The other test you can do is unplug the combiswitch connector and use a jumper wire to connect the red/grn wire to the red/blk (essentially bypassing the light switch) and see if the interior lights work.

 

So when I tested the fuse, both sides worked perfectly fine so the fuse isn’t blown. And I’m not sure if I’m testing the dimmer switch correctly. I pushed the prongs into the correct spots on the connector to get no voltage. I also stuck the prongs in the back with no success either. Next I’ll try the next thing when I get a chance. I’m wondering though has a fix been found for this issue other than running 2 wires to each thing, and if not do you know how I would possibly do that

 

The first test is for 12V between the outside wires of that connector (red/blk to blk). The testing I suggested was for ease of testing and not the order of the circuit. You are missing power on that wire based on your testing.

The order for the + side of the circuit it + battery post, 100A fuse, #32 fuse, red/grn wire to headlight switch, headlight switch connects red/grn to red/blk, then red/blk goes to that connector on the dimmer switch.

I suspect you have a problem with the headlight switch where it isn't making contact for that circuit when you turn on the lights. You should complete the wiring tests to be 100% sure as you need to access the headlight switch connector anyway if the switch is the issue. I think you can disassemble the headlight switch and clean the contacts to restore functionality. You may have carbon buildup preventing good contact or the contact can just be worn out over 30 years of usage.

 

So I’m just trying to get this right, I will take off the plastic steering wheel cover, disconnect the red/green connector from the headlight switch, connect it to then connect it to the red/black, then reconnect the red/black to the dimmer switch. Then it could complete the circuit is what you are saying

 

I was testing the main connector for the steering wheel and it also didn’t have power for the red and black but it did for the red and green, so I connected a paper clip and it both has power, but at the dimmer switch the power is lost so imma get some wire to connect the red and greed to the red and black at the dimmer switch