Two people are saying it could be as simple as that air is still in the radiator.

I leaning towards the radiator being clogged, since it looks corroded on the inside & it's still the original radiator.
Price quotes i got for a new radiator are around $200+ parts & labor ouch!!

I might try the t-stat first though since it's around $20 for an original honda one.

 

Check the T-Stat first. Then make sure you get all the air out.

I have a feeling it's the radiator, but pull the t-stat and check that first.

 

I don't know how confident you feel as far as working on your own car, but it doesn't look to be too difficult on my car. I haven't personally replaced one on this car. You could plan on taking out the fan and most likely a few other components in order to replace it. The Honda factory radiator is listed on Parts.com as $287.83MSRP and the "your price" is $215.88. My local dealership usually tends to be right in between these prices. My car has an aftermarket metal capped radiator that the previous owner had installed, it actually cost more than the factory one. Apparantely there was somewhat of a defect in the plastic that caused it to crack (I have seen it on an 89), so he went with the metal one.

If you do it yourself, I just found the factory service manual linked from here (I love this site ). That would probably have the best step-by-step directions. I would plan on spending some time on it, depending on what types of tools and equipment you have it is time consuming for a do-it-yourselfer (like myself)....

 

I'll do that. If I pull the t-stat out, can i leave it out & run it without it?
I want the coolant to flow freely & if it still heats up, chances are it's a dirty/clogged radiator.

Thanks

 

My understanding is that the thermostat can be taken out for a short period of time and run with no problem. It might affect the temperature of your heater, but I don't think you need that right now....

You might also have a problem with a leak. My brother's 90 legend in the "water passage" where the thermostat was installed actually used the thermostat as a seal. So, with no thermostat it would leak.

 

if you take the t-stat out your car will never reach operating temp except for the days where it is really warm outside. The ecu will also prevent the torque converter from locking up in 4th gear if it sees that the engine is not at proper operating temp.

 

Sure sounds like it's inconsistant. Even if you end up having to replace the radiator, it's not a bad idea to have a new thermostat.

White crud INSIDE the radiator isn't good. That's the stuff you want to remove with the flushing chemical. Maybe try flushing again, but if it's bad you'll have to get a new radiator anyway. That white crud is like insulation, it holds the heat inside.

The fins are on the outside; that's the fine ribbon of metal folded back & forth between the tubes of the radiator. That material can get corrode & it sorta crumbles away. Thats another sign that the radiator is bad.

 

my last radiator had some serious crumbling. You could touch the fins and they would brush away like dust. I really feel that if you have gunk in the radiator or fins are shedding off, it just pays to get a new one.

 

you can get a new radiator for around 100 dollars if not cheaper,, I would also install a new t-stat at the same time.......

there is a write up on both on how to replace on our DIY section

 

Thanks for the info desert. I followed the t-stat write up in the diy section & it was a pretty easy job (15min). I tried first with the t-stat off & ran it for a while & it is still overheating.

I guess the radiator is the problem.

Is the radiator pretty easy to replace?
I read the the thread on the diy section, it seems kinda hard.

What type of aftermarket radiators do you recommend?
I've seen alot on ebay in the range of $75-125 shipped.
are these any good?

thanks again