94 Accord EX 2.2L Vtec Auto Trans

So, as I mentioned in my oil leak thread, I had all the plugs out to check them and thought I'd check the compression while I had them out. During the course of cranking the engine over, twice I heard a 'pop' noise. Didn't have an idea what it was I was hearing. After putting the plugs back in I cranked it over and it fumbles and dies. Each time, sounds like it's almost going to start but quickly dies. Sounds like the timing is off. Not knowing the state or age of the timing belt in this new car that becomes my first concern. I pull the valve cover and top timing cover. Manually turning the crankshaft the valves all seem to move OK, nothing jammed or broken, hopefully no valve crash. I'm confused on the crankshaft where the TDC mark is and the manual doesn't help either. I see 3 tiny little dots on the crankshaft pulley, and then maybe 1 tiny dot one inch to the right of it. What am I looking for? What is TDC? If I line up the plastic pointer on the timing belt cover to the 3 dots, the camshaft is slightly off maybe a tooth or two. But I'm not sure if those are the marks. Any help would be appreciated.

Sean

 

First off put your year, model, trim info in your signature line. Believe or not, we don't remember every post on this forum.

White mark is the TDC mark, red is timing mark. There are two close marks at the red mark to indicate acceptable range.

Camshaft sprocket should have a pointer showing vertical up and a mark on the sprocket to align w/ top of cylinder head (B2) or rear timing belt cover (B1). Mark should be pointed towards front of engine and approximately horizontal.

good luck

 

Good point, completely forgot the important info. Posted above.

I'm 100% clear with the camshaft sprocket, I don't remember seeing any colors on the crankshaft though I will doublecheck. Now that you know my year and model, not sure if that changes anything.

 

Colors are on the crankshaft pulley. The crankshaft timing belt drive sprocket has an dimple indent on the sprocket that aligns w/ an arrow on the engine. Also the keyway aligns w/ TDC on the crankshaft.

Signature line is modified under the User CP links. See mine for reference.

good luck

 

Looked at it again tonight. Definitely don't see any red. And if there's any white on the other dot it would be barely noticeable. Again, all I see are 3 red pinhole sized dots in one group, then maybe another pinhole dot to the right of it about an inch or so. I know that once you have the pulleys off and you can see the keyway it faces directly up, but I'd have to strip a ton of stuff off to get down that far to it. The manual definitely isn't very clear on these marks.

 

Search sGzxCCaxDjI on YouTube. He explains the marks on the pulley at the end.

The white mark or notch by itself is TDC. The three marks clustered are 13, 15, and 17 before TDC. I think 15 is red when that crank pulley is new. I had to use white out on my pulley to easily see the marks.

The other way to find TDC is to remove the spark plug on cylinder number one and stick a long screwdriver in there. Make sure that the screwdriver is long enough so it doesn't fall into the cylinder. Slowly turn the engine using the crank bolt. When the screwdriver raises to the top you should be at TDC or 180 off TDC. The camshaft marks will verify TDC if the UP arrow is pointing up. Also the mark on the crank pulley should line up with the marker when you get to TDC.

 

OK, in that case my timing belt is fine. Not sure what the pops were I heard or why it wouldn't start. Possibly it was just flooded from having the plugs out cranking it over. Still, I may do the timing belt because the work done on this car is absolutely screwy. No gasket was used on the valve cover, just sealant. Unfortunately too much sealant and I'm sure some of it has hardened over time and fallen down inside. The O-ring on the dipstick tube is missing and just globs of sealer was used instead. Plus, I'm pretty sure the waterpump was not replaced at the time and is now leaking a bit. So might as well do it all now the right way.

Took a look for that video, didn't really find anything but I did find a pretty cool video about how Vtec works.

 

Threw the valve cover on and plugged in the wires and the car fired right up. I'm sure I just had it flooded after running the compression tests. Better to be safe then sorry though.

I have a timing belt kit on the way, going to do it anyways.

 

I pull the fuel pump fuse when I did my compression test. I think if you hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor, it disables the injectors as well. If the noise is gone and the car is running normally, then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Finished the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, main seal, cam seal, balancer seals and gear case seal. All done and running