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Tie Rod Q

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  #1  
Old 02-15-2007, 05:59 PM
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Default Tie Rod Q

What are the symptoms of a bad tierod...my steering seems fine to me but I just had my alignment done and the guy said my "right outer tierod is dry and boot torn."
 
  #2  
Old 02-15-2007, 06:20 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

if you can grab the wheel and has free play when moving it side to side ,, you might have a worn inner tie rod or outer tie rod end,,

if just the boot is torn, and tie rod is not loose,, get a new boot from the dealer 4-6 dollars, stuff tie rod with grese and install the new boot .....No need to replace the whole tie rod end
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-2007, 06:26 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

Once again Desert your reputation precedes you.....so would I have to go get my alignment done agian after installing the new boot?? Thanks again.
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-2007, 07:13 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

Get in there & look carefully. If the boot has been torn & the joint is dry, it's possible that it's already damaged. It's also possible that it simply needs fresh grease & a new rubber boot. It's a ball & socket. It should twist & move with firm & smooth resistance, but have NO looseness at all. Of course the ball shouldn't be rusty & pitted either.
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-2007, 07:32 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

I really need to crawl under there when i change my oil next and look so I know if we are talking about #8 or #12. If its the #8 boot, I don't think it would be considered an "outer boot" so we're probably talking about #12.


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  #6  
Old 02-15-2007, 07:49 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

Yes #12 is correct; you shouldn't need to have the alignment done again;
Remove the saftey 'cotterpin' loosen the nut a few turns, then grab up your 2 pound hammer and hit the part where the ball joint stud passes thru the connection of the knuckle; quit swinging the hammer like a girl and HIT it !
okay the joint popped loose, now you can remove the nut the rest of the way.
You left the nut on there to protect the threads in case you missed with the hammer, smart move.
Work the goofy clip off the old torn boot and put some grease in the joint, slam dunk the new boot with the goofy clip; bolt it back up and you are race ready.
As long as you don't take loose nut #16 the alignment should be intact.
if you have any more questions or need help, feel free to repost.
 
  #7  
Old 02-16-2007, 12:32 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

then grab up your 2 pound hammer and hit the part where the ball joint stud passes thru the connection of the knuckle
Hey Dude, would a gear puller work too, or is it easier to just hit it with a hammer???
 
  #8  
Old 02-16-2007, 04:36 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

use the hammer ,, that's what i always use

as a matter of facts i am doing one today ,, the tie rod end boot is torn $5.73 from the dealer ,
 
  #9  
Old 02-16-2007, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

ORIGINAL: deserthonda

use the hammer ,, that's what i always use

as a matter of facts i am doing one today ,, the tie rod end boot is torn $5.73 from the dealer ,
Cool, I just raised my right front wheel off the ground and it had no play at all so I guess i'll order the boot and give this whole thing a try.
 
  #10  
Old 02-16-2007, 09:56 PM
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Default RE: Tie Rod Q

Oh, almost forgot, what kind of grease??
 


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