Timing belt adjuster nut seized on 1990 Accord
 

Hi,
I recently acquired a 1990 Honda Accord automatic with 140k miles. I've been performing some maintenance on the vehicle - the CV joint boots were torn so I replaced the half shafts, and I've adjusted the valves. I am now attempting a timing/balancer belt change and I have a new water pump to install.

I've gotten the covers off and the crank pulley removed (what a chore) but I am stuck on the timing belt adjuster nut. It is an acorn style nut and even with a flare nut wrench, I rounded it off. I have heated the nut and used vise grips pliers but to no avail.

This morning I will be attempting to use a twist-grip removal tool. Are there any other suggestions for getting this nut loose? Since the nut has a cap, I'm not sure if a nut splitter would work. Also, I don't know how much work it would be to replace the stud should I go too far with the splitter.

I've ordered a Helm service manual, but it hasn't yet arrived. From the pictures I've seen on this forum, it appears that the the stud the adjuster nut is on is threaded into the engine block - so I don't want to damage the stud if possible. Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks,
Dave

You're talking about #26 on the outside of the lower timing cover? How did you get the lower cover off without removing that nut?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...3sm401_e11.png

cover removal
 

Jim,
Yes, #26. There is a rubber washer/gasket that goes around the nut that seals the cover. Once that is removed, the cover comes right off :).

My attempt with the socket grabber failed. It just rounds off the nut more.

Dave

thanks for the diagram
 

Jim,
Looking at the diagram you supplied, it looks like the "stud" that #26 threads onto has a hex head at the engine block end. I suppose that if I bugger up the stud too bad, I can likely replace it (provided it isn't seized also):rolleyes:. I guess worst case is take a hacksaw to it and cut through the nut/stud.

Dave

I guess that would be #22? Yeah, hopefully you can butcher it taking it off & still replace that stud. Never done that myself, so I'm not absolutely sure.

www dot hondaautomotiveparts dot com
click PARTS
put in your car's information
I'm not sure what category to look for that stud???

As you have rounded off the nut I would try a small pipe wrench.

Yep - #22 looks like the stud.

The website you gave me has the parts under the category "CAMSHAFT/TIMING BELT". Thanks for that info

I'm going to try cutting off the cap portion of the nut, then use a nut splitter. Also, by cutting off the cap, I'll expose the threads so I can hit it with some PB Blaster and give it another go with the vise grips.

Dave

Yeah, what I meant was I wasn't sure what category to find any detail of where that threads into. Maybe into the oilpump rather than the block.

Success
 

Hmmm, not sure what it threads into. I managed to get the nut off. Between cutting off the cap, spraying with PB Blaster and tapping the nut with a hammer and chisel, the vise grips were able to bite and loosen the nut. The stud is still pristine!:D The nut is mangled beyond recognition.

Well, I'm off to the races - as soon as I replace the tension adjuster nut. I also need a 6 x 100mm bolt for locating the rear balancer.

I bought my timing and balancer belts at autozone (Duralast). I've been browsing around here and I saw that OEM belts were recommended. Should I return the belts I have and get the OEM belts from a dealer? If so, why (because I'm curious that way). I also bought my water pump and valve cover gasket set from Autozone...

Thanks,
Dave

I think buying OEM vs aftermarket is based on past experience and you have to go with what makes you happy. It’s an issue that could be debated.

Yeah, I haven't used Duralast belts, but I've used non-dealer ones. Gates, I think. Honda doesn't manufacture belts, but I don't know which companies make them for Honda.

Progress...
 

Hey guys,
I got the new adjuster nut from the dealer today so I went ahead and swapped out the water pump and timing belts. The manual I have calls for using a 6 x 100mm bolt to locate and hold the rear balancer while installing the balancer belt, but I ended up using a 15/64th drill bit instead, which worked fine. I am guessing a #2 phillips screwdriver would also work, but it may be a smidgen too big.

I ran out of time, but at this point I need only reassemble everything I took apart, refill with antifreeze and fire it up.

If the engine runs good, I'll contemplate repairing the A/C system. I know it needs a new condenser, receiver/dryer, possibly a couple of lines and new seals. Converting to R134a has already been partially done, but I'd want to flush a few things before refilling with ester oil and refrigerant. The compressor is really buried and difficult to get to. I'm guessing it will cost me around $300 if I repair/recharge the system myself. I'll need to borrow/rent the vacuum compressor and pressure manifold to do the job. With all the heat we have had in New York State lately, I'm inclined to fix the A/C.

I'm guessing that I've saved over $1000 so far by doing the work on this car myself.:D Hopefully I've done it all correctly:eek:. For a car that has lived in the rust belt for 20 years, it is in excellent condition.

Dave

On a lot of items the difference between getting OEM Honda at Majestic Honda vs aftermarket isn’t that different in price, so I get Honda. Someone on here posted that they have seen aftermarket timing belts with the wrong number of teeth.

Seems more likely that the store fumbled a part number for the belt. Cant imagine it REALLY having the wrong number of teeth.

As a general rule, I compare the old/new belts before I put them on. I'm sure that most of you do that as well. Of course, the belts I have looked fine or I wouldn't have installed them.

I'm going to only have a little time to work on the car today, so I doubt I'll get it done. Sigh.

Dave

Since the price is not much different, there is no reason to use non-honda parts. I bought battery from Honda dealer, no reason, the price from dealer is a few dollars cheaper. The battery capacity may be a little less but for my car, it is powerful enough. The first battery in the car since new lasted many years so I expect the 2nd battery will do the same thing. The 2nd reason why I stick to Honda parts is its high quality. I just replaced my timing belt. The timing belt and balance belt were in the car for 13 years and near 100K miles. I do not see much difference compare to the new belts I bought from Honda. I am very impressed. I showed these belts to my neighbors, they all impressed. The last reason is you know, if you buy from Honda, the parts will be always fit and work.

That was me that got a belt with an extra tooth when compared to my honda belt.

I was in such a rush to get the job done, that I went to my local honda dealership and got an OEM one. I might have received the wrong aftermarket belt.

I just suggest to mark the original belt and gears with whiteout, then count/mark the teeth on the new one to ensure the new belt will work. Plus it can't hurt to have an extra set of marks to work with.

I didn’t mean to start a debate I was just mentioning when the prices are close it may be worth buying from Honda. I don’t know about now, but way back when…when I worked at a dealership some parts were cheaper to get from the dealership than aftermarket. I have trouble with unknown brands such as store brands which I know nothing about and generally can’t find any information on. With a big job I like to know the quality of what is going into the job. I try to find out the brands Honda uses and go with that if the price difference is worth it such as O2 Sensors.

Yes, I normally compart parts prices. Sometimes the dealer IS cheaper.

Job completed
 

Hi all,
I just wanted to let you all know that the car is back together and running better than before the work. The annoying tick is gone - which was likely due to the valve adjustment.

No leaks, no rubbing and no leftover parts:eek:.

Time to think about repairing the A/C.

Dave

2002 Accord 4cyl

Hey all, first post.

Having a similar problem but I didn't destroy the nut. I thought the crankshaft bolt was hard, but this last timing cover bolt is a pita. I broke my 1/4" wrench trying to get it off. I used a AA Maglite without the batteries over the socket handle to get a better/ longer grip. I can't fit any of my 3/8 sockets in the space.

Anybody have a sure to work tip to get this sucker off?

I would use heat, but don't want to damage the timing cover and gasket below the nut.

Thanks all.

If you have a 6-pt boxed wrench that is the right size (14mm?), that would work. Just put another boxed end of a wrench in the open end to get more leverage.

To see what I am talking about, Google

how to change timing belt in a Vtec honda accord

The first hit is a YouTube video. At about 6mins into the video, he shows you what I am talking about.