I feel like I have seen something posted on the Forum that showed the procedure for changing the timing belt/ water pump on these cars before; however, I can't find it. I've been talked into believing that I am smart enough to pull it off myself. I haven't done one before. Bottom line I could use some guidance.

The $600 ish quote I got from the dealer made it easier for my friends to convince me that I am up for the task. I would appreciate any encouraging words and actual guidance.

 

Here is a detailed post for a 92 Accord. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_22119/tm.htm

 

Try this link for some info;
http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?i...rdtbeltki1.jpg
another link of a prelude [same block except tensioner];
http://members.troublecodes.net/hondadude/ludebelt.htm

 

I've done this job probably 5-6 times now, and I've found that I'm no faster than the first time. If you don't do the job but 1/yr you forget some of the minor but aggravating details that cause problems. Read all the posts you can find on the subject. I've found this to be one of the best aids to this job available.

Far and away the most aggravating part of this job is removing the harmonic balancer retaining bolt or crankshaft bolt. It may take 700-900 ft-lbs of torque to remove,...yes ft-lbs not in-lbs. I had one that only yielded to a 4-ft lever arm and all my modest strength to pull the breaker bar+ cheater pipe. Arrangement bent perhaps 30-45 degrees before bolt yielded w/ a loud "crack". I had a bad moment when I envisioned seeing a loose bolt head w/ the stub still anchored in the crankshaft, but it was intact. Bolt is incredibly strong. Lubricate w/ oil or anti-sieze on the thread and under the attached washer to allow correct installation torque. I've found the harmonic balancer restraint tool is necessary to hold the crankshaft and allow massive manual torque. A powerful air impact (500+ ft-lbs), good air compressor, and short 3/8" ID air hose may work, but I've seen a professional shop cry uncle w/ a 3/4" air impact.

I hope I didn't discourage you. This job is not difficult, but does require correct tools, patience, and determination. I was so stiff after one T'belt campaign, that I couldn't get out of bed the next day. My wife asked why I didn't pay someone, but I felt the warm glow of knowing it was done right and by me.

good luck

 

Yeah, Texas is about right. And part of the pain is not having good access to see & do things. It would be easy if the engine was out of the car... LOL

Get a repair manual, it'll pay for itself this one job alone. www.helminc.com has the best ones but they're not cheap. Read thru & make sure you understand the timing marks BEFORE you remove the old belt.

 

I'm in to it now! The crank shaft bolt has got me stumped. My impact wrench won't do it; I haven't been able to figure out how to hold the pulley in place in order to muscle it. It has a hex shaped, 2" across place around the bolt. I had a 2" piece of steel square tubing that I cut to fit pretty tight. I had to notch it to leave what amounted to a channel sticking out the end ( 2" across with 1-1/8" legs). The steel was too light the legs folded over under the stress. I plan to go to the dealership in the morning to pay out the a$$ for the part I saw on the Internet to hold the pulley.

I hope someone will tell me a better way before I go. Oh yeah, my nieghbor told me to stick a screwdriver in the flywheel. I had read that that wasn't a good idea. And this Haynes book tells me to use a strap wrench to hold it while I break it. Based on my attempt with the steel, I think the strap wrench idea is weak at best.

You folks have given me some good information. I appreciate it.

 

You can try this:


http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879...636&sr=8-1

 

That's the thing if I had one of those, I wouldn't be in a pickel (maybe).

 

Unfortunately there is no magic trick or "big red easy button". Only solution is adequate restraint. This problem has caused a lot of wailing and tooth gnashing from many diy'rs. You rightly question the risk of jamming a bar into the flywheel. The point force in lbs on a single tooth can approach the torque value (700-900 ft-lbs), so breaking a tooth is a distinct possibility if the jam is misplaced.

The restraint tool is the only safe way. You will need two good 1/2" breaker bars, and a 3-ft length of 1" ID pipe for a cheater to extend one breaker bar and have a full 4-ft of leverage.

I have simply paid a shop to break the bolt and run it snug to drive back home. However,this will cost more than the cost of the restraint tool.

A chain strap wrench might hold the harmonic balancer, however there is a rubber bushing that might slip or shear. Also you alsmost certainly will damage the pulley surfaces w/ the chain strap.

That brings up another issue that I've recently had a sad experience with. Carefully inspect the harmonic balancer rubber for faults. It can cause no end of problems if the rubber separates allowing the pulley to slip. Tale is too long to enter here and still ongoing. I'll post the experience later.

good luck

 

I got that sucker! The crankshaft pulley bolt. Now let's see if I can pull off the mechanical part. I would post a pic of the devise I made but I don't know how to make the picture as small as is required.

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