UPDATE:

Over the weekend I opened up the timing belt again and replaced both the timing belt and the water pump. The water pump still looked good and new since it's only been 26K miles. The timing belt also looked fine. After I put everything back, the noise heard before is gone. I am guessing that the belt was the culprit of the noise since the water pump still looked and sound perfect. I am still confused on how the belt could cause the noise (teeth profile?) It can't be the tensioner since tension is done by the hydraulic tensioner and I didn't change the tensioner this time.

Next problems to address:
1- There was some leakage from the crankshaft seal. I tried for hours but couldn't take out the woodruff key. It is stuck in there. I decided to address the leak another time because I was dead tired. Is there an easier way to take that key out?

2- Some vibration at idle of ~700-720 rpm. Can be felt on the steering wheel and cabin in all gears. Can't really feed vibration after the car is in motion. I already changed the passenger and front engine (with vacuum hose, verified vacuum suction at idle) mounts. I checked the transmission mounts and rear mount (opened up the "flaps" to see inside the mount). From what I can actual see, they all looked OK but it is still difficult see much under cramped quarters. No clunking/noise during shifting P/R/D. No drastic visual movement when in gear and under load.

Any suggestions on what to do next? Thanks all. You guys are the best.






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Hi all,

Several weeks ago, the timing belt started making a whining noise but the Odyssey (2004) still ran fine. There is additional engine vibration with this noise. It is readily heard in the cabin. In engine bay, the noise can be clearly heard when the timing inspection/TDC plug(s) [front and/or rear] is removed. The sound is still there even without the PS and alternator belt [[off]].

Background:
Currently the van is at 127K miles. At 100K miles, I had a garage replace all timing components (TB, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner, hydraulic tensioner, accessory belts).
I originally suspected the hydraulic tensioner or pulley(s) was bad but went out and bought all timing components just in case any was bad. I personally opened everything up and replaced the tensioner, hydraulic tensioner and idler pulley. I checked the current timing belt and it looked very good. I spun the water pump pulley and it spun easily and without noise. Thus, I did not replace the TB and water pump. I checked the removed tensioners and idler pulley and everything looks and feels new. The old hydraulic tension still had a lot of tension. The pulleys spun without noise. After I put the timing belt on and without the accessory belts, I turned on the van to see if everything was OK. The engine ran fine. It was hard to listen for the whining sound because without the covers, the engine was quite noisy. So I put everything back. Once everything was back on, the whining sound still exists.

I also noticed the crankshaft pulley was a wobbly just a tiny bit so I replaced that but it did not solve the problem.

I searched for other cases of people having the same sound. Most of the cases involved having the wrong tension on the TB. People solved this problem by adjusting the tension on the TB. In my case, the tension is not adjustable since the tension is automatically done by the hydraulic tensioner. How can I change the tension on the TB?
Could it be a noisy belt? water pump?

I am out of idea. I was just going to go back and replace the TB and water pump and see if these will solve the problem but have doubts.

Please help!

Thanks all,

Here's a video of my car with the sound (deep cyclic droning):

A car with a similar sound:

 

I'll assume that is a typo at the end of the first part "The sound is still there even without the PS and alternator belt off."

So if the noise is there with the serp belts off......It does sound like a "bearing" noise to me. So the tensioners have been replaced....there is a "collar" to one of them, be sure it can move freely. So about the only other bearing left is in the wp......again I can say for sure but giving my idea.....Please let us know how it turns out.

 

Thanks for responding.

Yes, the noise is there without the PS and alternator belt. Yes, the tensioners can move freely.

I hope you are right about the water pump. I hope it's not the oil pump or cam/crank bearings. When I opened it up before, I spun the WP and it spun freely without noise. The TB looked good also. That's why I didn't replace them.
I am going to give it a week and get input from others before diving back. Currently, the sound is there. There's also extra vibration can be felt inside the cabin and steering wheel. I don't know if the vibration is related with this sound because I just replaced the front and passenger engine mounts. The transmission mounts and rear mount looks good.

 

Over the internet these are not fun....I can't see it or hear it, yes you posted the vid but the mic and the speakers on my computer are not the same as "real life".

Just to add based upon what I just said about mic's and speakers....sounded like a bit of valve noise....has the valve lash been checked?

Again just wanted to be sure the "idler" for the tb was correct....this is from an 03-06 Accord v6 and that bolt on the collar is only like 19 ft lbs, for ref spark plugs are only like 13 ft lbs......you never did give us the year of your Ody.

 

Poorman,

I know it's hard to diagnose recorded "sound" but I do appreciate your input. The problem sound is the deep droning that is cyclic. It can be heard inside the cabin.

The van is a 2004. As I recalled, I tensioned the idler with the correct torque. It it not loose but is not tight where it cannot swing. It pivots through a collar.

I just did the valve clearance adjustment last week.

 

Just wanted to be sure.....again keep us updated....and welcome to HAF , I see you joined a long time ago but only recently posted.

 

Sounds to me like the belt is loose between at least two pulleys, and vibrating. I imagine figuring out exactly what is causing it could be tricky. I suppose you could run the engine with the timing covers removed, but that would require extra work. Good luck with it.

 

TTT with update

 

The hard part about a wp is that only when the "tension" is on the shaft it makes noise.....so spinning by hand without the load....they seem fine. What brand WP was used the first time? EDIT: Again just me but the noise sounded like a bearing having an issue....you ruled out the "other" bearings so the only one(s) left are/were in the wp.

Key - not sure what or how you went about it so some of this you might have done. After soaking it, small screw driver - like for glasses - can you help it out of the crank?

Idle - first it sounds a bit low....750 (?) should be the norm, sorry too tired to look it up so using memory. Give the TB a good cleaning, Jim has a write up on the "relearn" of the idle.

 

poorman212:

Regarding the waterpump, I don't know what to say. The removed one feels just like a new one. There is no "play" when I try to wiggle it. It spins great with no bearing noise. How else can you check if the WP is/going bad?

Key: I've tried soaking it with PB Blaster, grabbing it with pliers, wiggling it, pulling it as I wiggle it. I've not tried prying it with a jewelry driver. Next time, I'll try the jewelry driver and turn back the crankshaft as I wiggle it out.

Idle: The manual states idle rpm should be for 02-04 ~710 rpm. I recently cleaned the TB when I did the valve clearance. I've never tried the idle learn procedure since idle always came back to specs. You think I need to do this procedure?