I felt a little adventurous and decided to change the front wheel bearings of my 99 Accord EX. Its my first project of this stature. I would notsay I did OK, cause I broke the ABSspeed sensor, and tore all the ball joint boots (upper, lower and the tie rod boots). I've ordered the ABS sensor, but have hit a dead end with the boots.

1) Where can I order the boots. (Autozone etc don't have these.From the dealerI would have to buy the entire joint sets, they wouldn't sell just the boots). I shopped online, butcouldn't findone for my 99 Accord (they have a bunch of them for 90-97).

2) Do I need to buy any special tools to install the boots. Seems to me that its easy to take out those boots, butreplacing with new ones could be another story.

I would appreciate your help. My car is up on jacks for thepast few days.

 

I got those boots for my '98 from manhonda.com but that was awhile ago. Should be the same for your '99.

There's a tool to make it easy, but mostly it's just atedious PITAgetting that wire clip around the big end of each boot.

Used a pickle fork on the ball joints, right?? I hate those because they ALWAYS chew up the boots. Use a small gear puller next time.

 

Thanks. I ordered the boots and waiting for them to arrive.

Yes I did use the pickle fork. I didn't know it might chew up on the boots. I wouldn't use them again.I am pissed causemy accord is on a jack stand for quite some time, ever since I lost those boots, waiting for the parts to come.

I don't quite know how I would use the gear puller to separate the joints, like JimBlake suggested. I will try the hammer methodwhen I get tothe other-side front bearing. Last time I did try this method, but my hammer was too light for this purpose. I bought this BFH now - can't wait toemploy it. Did practice my swing a few times.

I don't have any special tools for installing the boots, but will share my experience when I finally replace them.

 

Something like this...

All the balljoints on the Hondas I've owned are pointing in a direction that allows one of these to be clamped on. Jaws hook around the lower control arm & the push-bolt pushes the tapered stud out.

For installing the boots, I've got a couple old worn-out small screwdrivers that I've made into smooth spoon-type tools. I use them to pry the spring clip around the boot. There's no sharp corners to puncture the boots.

 

Hi, I finally changed the boots. Putting back the circlips wereindeed a PITA.

Another question: Do we need to press in the ball joints back somehow? The 99 Accord service manual didn't mention anything to that effect. So I was just screwing back in the castle nuts to the lower range of the torque specs.But I realized the ball pin is free to roll in the socket and there is no way to tighten the castle nut. What am I missing?

 

put a floor jack directly under the ball joint and jack it up just enough to put some pressure on the ball joint ,, it should work ..
Or put a block of wood or concrete under the ball joint and lower the car on it enough to put pressure on the ball joint ,

either way will let you tighten the castle nut

 

Thanks DH! Jacking up the joint worked great for the tie rod joint! I could easily screw the nut to thespecified torque.

But for the lower ball joint, the castle nut isUNDER the joint.The jackholds up the joint but then itspushing onthe castle nut itself, the nut being the lowest point in the joint. Ilose access to the castlenut (that was not the case with the tie rod, since the nut was placed ABOVE the joint). I was not sure if jacking up the front arm just next to the joint would do the trick, but I tried it anyways, and it didn't work).

Same would be the case with the upper ball joint (besides I do not have that big a jack floor).

Do I need to use some other tools?

 

I've never had a problem with ball joints not going back in, but you should be able to place the jack on the control between the chassis and lower ball joint. Just line up the stud int he hole and lift away. If it is more stubborn than I think it is the jack will eventually compress the spring enough that the whole car will lift. Another option would be to heat up the hole the ball joint stud goes into with a torch since metal expands as it's heated. If all else fails, take the replacement ball joint you bough, if you still have it, and pound it into the hole to clear it out, wipe off, return and enjoy.

 

After coming backfrom vacation, I saw this notice from my community manager that I can't be leaving my car onstands for so long.

I tried DesertHonda's suggestions for tightening the ball-joint castle nuts and it worked this time!! (I honestly don't know why it didn't work last time, when the nut would rotate but would make the pin rotate along with it. But then I had to go out of town). Ijacked upthe lower control arm a little bit and could tighten the castle nut for the lower joint. Then I lifted the entire knuckle and I could tighten the upperball-joint nut.

Thanks everyone who responded. I drove around and the bearing makes no noise at all, and the drive is so smooth!! Seems like a different car.

 

Good. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.