1994 accord. Started having shifting trouble about a week ago, and the D4 light began flashing.

After some readinghere, I figured out how to obtain the code.

After jumping the conector, the D4 light blinks 7 times. I cant tell if they are long or short blinks because there is nothing to compare to. The light blinks 7 times, all the same length.

Please help figure out what this code means.

Thanks,

Jason

 

I couldn't find any for the 5th gen transmissions, but here is a list for 4th gens:



On the side of the transmission facing the radiator there are two solenoids valves that are held onto the casing with 2 bolts each. It should just be a simple unplug, unbolt and replace procedure, but wait until someone with more experience replies.

 

Code 7 is shift solenoid A fault, wiring, connector, or solenoid. First make sure connector is clean of oil, and properly connected. Reset ECU and see if code 7 returns promptly. If yes, the problem is very likely a faulty solenoid A. Resistance of solenoid should be 12-24 ohms from the connector contacts. If zero or infinite, the solenoid is bad. If solenoid checks OK, you need to remove Trans Control Unit connector and check wiring from TCU to shift solenoid A for faults to be sure.

Shift control solenoid A is lower of two solenoid control valve sets on forward side of trans.

Suggest going to Online Manual section of DIY and download the 94-97 Accord manual from hondahookup.com. This will provide details of diagnostics and location/appearance of shift control solenoid.

good luck

 

Thanks guys.Now I have somewhere to start. I'll let you know if I get it figured out.

J

 

Resitance measures 26.8.

It is outside you the specs you posted, but is it within reason, or a faulty silonoid?

J

 

Since code 7 is presented, you have to suspect solenoidAwinding. Solenoids usually fail by shorting, which leads to lower resistance not higher. Resistance may be OK. Note there are two solenoids. How did you measure resistance? It should be from A solenoid contact to ground, not between A & B solenoids. This would produce roughly twice the resistance, which is what youare getting. You need to use the download manual.

Try to apply 12V directly to Solenoid A and see if solenoid will "click". If yes, I would say solenoid is OK, and start checking wiring and connector.

good luck

 

Damn you are good.

I checked the resistance exactly as you stated.

I will check the right way when I get home. I'll also try applying the 12 volts as stated.

On a side note. Once I was done checking the resistance (the wrong way) I pulled the fuse to reset the codes. The car drove great for a about a mile, then began acting up again and the D4 began flashing again. I hope this is an indication that the tranny is ok, and it is some external, like the solenoid.

Thanks for your help.

J

 

okay damit...

Now I'm stumped. I checked the resistance as directed. It was fine. I supplied with 12 volts and I heard clicking from both solenoids. I checked wiring, nothing noticible. I removed and opened up the TCU to inspect. Nothing obvious. No burn marks or bad wiring that I could see. I put everyhting back together and reset the fuse. It drove great to and from work. Then after about 30 miles of driving it began to act up again.

What could it be???

Any help please.

Jason

 

You probably have an intermittent solenoid A. When cold, the resistance is OK and solenoid works fine. When fully warmed, an internal short in the winding causes the fault (short or open can be sensed by TCU).

It will be difficult to confirm the above scenario w/ instrumentation. It might be possible to pull the part, warm in oven, pull and check unit resistance until short or open shows up.

The shift control solenoid assembly is $150+ shippingfrom Rockauto.com or OEM part. You may want to check w/ salvage yards to see if you could scavenge a part from a damaged transmission. Not likely. They usually sell these parts w/ trans. Car-part.com can be useful to locate parts, but not this part, only whole transmissions, but you might use it to find likely salvage yards.

good luck

 

i would say it is really a faulty solenod A... i had the same problem just last week...and me and my mechanic checked both of the solenoid if they were opening ok...and both of them opend...but the solenoid (lower pair) didnt really opened as strong as the other one...so we change that one and tested it.... and that fixed it....