For me, it seems pretty easy to re-adjust the valve lash, so I'd probably loosen the valves before dismantling the valvegear. Then there's less worries when putting it back together.

But that's just theoretical, 'cause I haven't actually had to do that job.

 

I haven't adjusted the valves on this engine yet (3.0 V6), but I assume it is similar to my Honda motor cycle and previous Accord (92). You loosen the lock-nut, then adjust the screw with a screw driver, then tighten the lock-nut when the valve clearance is correct. Problem with this is, when you tighten the lock-nut, the clearance changes, so you basically have to guess how much it will change, and loosen or tighten the screw to allow for the change. The problem I've had is, each clearance will not change the same. Sometimes, when you tighten the lock-nut, the screw will turn a little as the nut is tightened, and sometimes it will not. Maybe I was trying to get the clearance too perfect, but it was impossible to get exactly the clearance I wanted. I suspect, if I had three hands, one to slide the feeler gauge, one to hold the adjusting screw, and one to tighten the lock-nut, I would have a better chance at getting it right, but alas I only have the two. I imagine the front bank will not be too difficult, but the rear bank looks like a serious back ache waiting to happen. Is there a trick to adjusting valves you can enlighten me with, to make this less challenging to me. I hope you can, because right now I'm thinking the valve adjustment will be a lot more trouble than the timing belt change. Thanks Jim

 

When it comes to anything that involves the engine, I have left it to a professional. I have replaced intakes, mufflers, cats, axles....but never any engine work...it will take some time before I am comfortable with engines. I think i will take it to my local mechanic and see how it is done.

what parts would i need??? I assume that would be in the DIY section....correct?

 

Out of curiorsity, if I still find oil in the area where the spark plugs are, what would be my next step???

 

Mine have been 4-cyl, like rwyatt80's car. But I do understand how the rear bank of a V-6 would be difficult to get at. I just hold the screw with a screwdriver while loosening & tightening the lock-nut. Measuring with the feeler gauge is separate & it tells you which direction you need to go.

 

If you don't want to work on the leak (engine) yourself, you will have to take it to a shop (or two) for an estimate(s). To me, it should not cost more than $200-$300 to do this job, but it's been a long time since I've dealt with any shop. The leak will not get better, that's for sure, and when the oil gets high enough in the tube, to short out the spark plug, the car will run bad.

 

The upper tube seals (valvecover gasket) and those lower O-ring seals are the only 2 places for oil to get into those tubes.

If oil still gets in there, there's only a few possibilities:
- one of the seals was installed incorrectly
- scratched or damaged metal surfaces where the seals press
- actual cracked metal parts (not very likely)

 

I just changed my spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and o rings (got them from Honda). I will keep you posted on the outcome. Thanks everyone!!

 

It has been a few days...no oil in the spark plugs. I guess going to honda and getting a REAL gasket set may have done the trick.

i appreciate everyone's help. I absolutely LOVE this forum!!!!

 

i looked in diy section don't see honda manual. i need the order of bolts and the tension for removing rocker arm assembly to change gaskets underneath. thanks... checked a torrent site and i haven't found any manuals available yet. 92 honda accord