So I've been working on the surging idle for over a week and a half now reading all the forum posts etc...
So far I've:
Cleaned/Replaced IACV, FITV, Air boost valve, cleaned the TB, changed air filter, changed spark plugs, checked for vacuum leak, put techron fuel injection cleaner in, and put a new fuel filter in. So now I pulled the Vacuum Control Box off to check the MAP sensor and I can't really figure it out.
Oh and it only does the surging idle from 1500 to 1000 RPMS in Park and Neutral. No code is thrown. Any more ideas and I would be much appreciative! Thank you all for reading!

 

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Check PCV hose and PCV valve. If open, this can cause idle up/down. Same for brake vacuum booster line or leaking brake vacuum booster diaphragm.

Low coolant level has also been known to cause cyclic idling.

good luck

 

I replaced the PCV valve and the hose. I bought a pressure gauge and every hose shows about 18lbs of pressure. I also bought a ohm meter and theres continuity between the electronic sensors. Also I checked my AICV and readjusted my FITV again. Still to no avail. Adjusted the idle screw and that doesn't change it. I've been working from the Haynes manual with the diagram and cannot figure it out. The coolant hoses that go from the thermostat to the FITV and AICV are hot but the hoses going right under the throttle body are cold. I don't know what else to test.

 

By idle screw do you mean the throttle plate stop screw or air bypass screw? The throttle plate stop screw should not be adjusted.

Is coolant temperature normal when fully warmed; just below 1/2 way mark?

Try blocking air flow to inlet w/ plate to prevent any air flow through throttle bore. All idle air should be supplied through IACV. This is normal situation if throttle plate is properly closed. If idle stablizes, you will need to adjust throttle plate stop screw.

good luck

 

I only adjusted the air bypass screw (flathead). i only made sure the throttle plate was closed all the way with my hand while it was running. It randomly gets hot at only the 3/4 mark because I did change the thermostat. In the throttle body with the intake taken off where the two holes the bottom one has suction. When I plug it up it returns to normal idle, and the same goes for when I unplug the AICV. But I replaced both the IACV and FITV and screwed the plastic thing down just about snug.

So the screw on top of the throttle body below the vacuum hoses going to the vacuum control box is the air bypass screw? thats the one I adjusted. How do I adjust the throttle plate screw?

Thank you very much by the way. I've read so many forums.

 

When you block throttle bore air, does the idle stabilize?

There is no procedure in manual for adjusting throttle stop screw, but the idle speed adjustment procedure using idle air bypass screw suggestst the following.

Disconnect IACV, and adjust throttle plate position to deliver an idle speed of 550 +/- 50 rpm. Also the auto trans throttle arm and throttle plate should begin to move at same time. This might require an adjustment of the auto trans throttle cable tension.

good luck

 

Yes it does stabilize when I plug up the hole in the throttle body intake area.

I turned the car on, unplugged the IACV, and the lowest the idle will go is 700RPM and at that point the screw it turned as far clockwise as it can go.
Is the auto throttle arm the part of the throttle cable that comes up on the passenger side or driver side? I will try and follow it to find out. I adjusted the throttle cable to be tight then just a little bit of slack. Is this correct? Should I be making adjustments.

 

This result suggests an intake air leak somewhere or throttle plate is not fitting correctly. I've heard of throttle plate bushings wearing out and letting air enter (not on Accords), but might be possible.

You should download the 94-97 Accord shop manual from Online Manuals post in DIY forum. It has procedure to adjust auto trans throttle cable tension.

good luck

 

I noticed that when its running and I push the throttle metal plat thing more to the closed position it almost wants to die. Such as it would certainly die if I put pressure to keep it closed. I just put a new throttle body gasket on it too. I'm getting the 94-97 manual now. I had the 90-93 version and there was a whole section of the fuel injection system troubleshooting that was missing.