I read the recommendation below on MSM Autos. I'm guessing it doesn't really work because brake fluid doesn't "circulate" in the brake lines and the brake fluid in the lines closest to the calipers/drums will not be rejuvenated. What do you think?

"Some carmakers recommend replacing brake fluid every two years or 24,000 miles. Others don’t mention brake fluid change at all. But it’s easy to test your brake fluid. Just dip a test strip into the fluid and compare the color to the chart on the packaging.

You can’t do a complete brake fluid flush yourself, but you can do the next best thing—a fluid swap. This procedure won’t replace all the old fluid with fresh, but you’ll introduce enough new fluid to make a difference.

Use a baster to suck out the dark brown brake fluid (brake and power steering fluids are incompatible, so use a different baster for each). Squirt it into a recycling bottle. Refill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid as shown. Then drive the vehicle for a week to mix the new fluid with the old. Repeat the procedure several times over the next few weeks until the fluid in the reservoir retains its light honey color.

Note: The brake fluid may damage the baster’s rubber bulb, so don’t suck the fluid all the way into the bulb."

 

Kind of a dumb idea, water is heavier than brake fluid and a such, it sinks to the bottom of the system. The only way to freshen to condition of the brake fluid in the works state (the stuff in the calipers) is to do a brake system flush via a full-bleed. This is not an expensive service and most shops can do it relatively quickly.

If you want to do it yourself, there are "self bleeder" kits you can buy to help you get the job done.

 

what type of aftermarket break brake fluid to use on 2015 accord? manual states dot 3 or 4 but only temporary or will degrade. Must I use the recommended honda heavy duty fluid that is available from dealer only?

 

Any Dot 3 is fine. They all have to meet the specification. No need to buy the Honda brake fluid.

 

I don't like that method because it doesn't refresh the fluid down in the calipers and lines. When brake fluid absorbs moisture, it becomes more corrosive, and those are the places where corrosion will happen (not in the plastic reservoir).

DOT 4 has higher boiling points than DOT 3, but it generally absorbs moisture a little faster. So if you plan on leaving it in for more than a couple years, DOT 3 will be better.

Some companies make a DOT 4 that is at the thin end of the allowable viscosity range. That's better for stability control & EBD systems which will benefit from the lower viscosity. One example is ATE SL6 fluid.

 

great, thanks!!

 

Living in the salt belt means replacing some brake components and lines. It's when I'm in there doing other work that I change the fluid. My 99 needs a brake replaced, but I already know I'll be replacing both brake lines and the fuel lines when I'm in there, as they're all rusty hiding under the plastic tray. I know if I bump 1, the others will start to leak too. BTDT before.

 

Yeah, I found out the hard way Honda brake and fuel lines (and fuel tanks too) are HIGHLY prone to rusting through. I was merging onto a freeway one evening when traffic came to a stop (some folks are still merge challenged), and YIKES, limited brakes. Unfortunately it was something like six miles to the next exit. I decided to be "that guy" in that I sat in the right lane and took it easy all the way to my regular exit (20 miles), hell, even the Prius drivers had to pass me. The good news is the shop I typically use is right at the end of the ramp.

 

Has anyone found a good way to get the plastic tray down from the floor pan yet? It's the worst part of the job (rust falling off in flakes and chunks), and I seem to break them.

 

Broke mine.