Hello all. Brand spanking new to the forums here. Just purchased a '94 Accord EX, 2.2L VTEC, Auto Trans with 168,000 (supposed) miles. It has it's fair share of issues that I intend on mostly tackling myself. As much as I'm able to, anyway I've an automotive background that leans toward the lighter duty side of things, my uncles are all mechanics, worked in their shop in high school, and I've also been rebuilding Navy hovercrafts for the past 3 years as an Outside Machinist. Simply put,..I'm confident that with patience, guidance, and the right tools I can accomplish anything I put my mind to.

What I've diagnosed so far:
-Oil leak seeming to come from the main seal area between block & tranny.

-Tranny shifts rough from 1st into 2nd, worse when it's cold or accelerating quickly.

-Speedometer doesn't work most of the time.

-Dash lights don't illuminate.

-Check Engine light periodically coming on.

-Gas mileage not so hot.

-Jumping rpm's at idle, but this has only happened once so far.

-ABS light is on most of the time, also an accompanying "clicking" sound from beneath the gearshift console area when I apply the brake.

-Replaced master cylinder, didn't seem to affect ABS light.

-Keys and doorlocks all badly worn.

-Passenger front window rolls up slowly, slightly out of track, and as a result doesn't seal properly(car stays dry in the rain, but I hear a bit of whistle going down the road)

A few of these issues I've found queries for already, as well as some tutorials. But any and all suggestions or opinions are certainly welcome. I think I'm gonna need it! As well as a sparkly new set of metric tools My experience is mostly based in older domestic vehicles, the only other similar vehicle I've owned being a '91 Acura Legend that ran strong but had it's fare share of problems too.

As far as the history of the vehicle, from what I can tell it was owned by a young woman who didn't take the best, yet also not the worst care of it. No accidents on record according to carfax(ripoff). I bought it off a mechanic who purchased it from the woman's brother who was himself a Lexus tech(who apparently did the timing belt/water pump before selling it). The guy I bought it from put a little work into it - muffler, Driver's side CV axle, fresh coat of paint, and a state inspection(how it passed with a bad master cylinder & regularly illuminated ABS light is beyond me). The car appears to have sat and not been in use for some time, which was confirmed by the guy I bought it from - he said it sat for 6 months to a year. From what I'm seeing it could've been longer - tires dry rotted, boots for ball joints and tie rods all dry rotted, and the burgeoning oil leak could also be the result of sitting for a bit too long(dried seals). Overall it seems like a sound vehicle with problems inherent to a Honda of this age and mileage.

Look forward to hearing from you all!
-K

 

Welcome to HAF. Moved your post for better response.

-Oil leak seeming to come from the main seal area between block & tranny.
Response: Check for valve cover, distributor and VTEC leaks. These leaks may drain to same region. If confirmed, this leak is one best left alone unless copious amount of leakage. Trans removal req'd to replace main crankshaft seal between trans and engine.

-Tranny shifts rough from 1st into 2nd, worse when it's cold or accelerating quickly.
Response: Adjust trans throttle cable to spec. Drain/replace ATF. Check for trans codes, even if D4 isn't flashing. A few codes don't cause D4 to blink.

-Speedometer doesn't work most of the time.
Response: Usually means the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is faulty. ECM Code 17 or 4 (?check to confirm) should be set. If no code for VSS, the gauge panel is suspect. For sure panel is probllem if odometer is working and cruise control works.

-Dash lights don't illuminate.
Response: Which dash lights? If Illumination only, check fuses first, dimmer can cause problems (it is turned on!). Bulbs may need replacement.

-Check Engine light periodically coming on.
response: Check codes. See DIY forum for guidance.

-Gas mileage not so hot.
Response: Air filter, spark plugs, spark plug leads, distributor cap, rotor are first step if not done already. O2 sensor may be sluggish causing high fuel consumption.

-Jumping rpm's at idle, but this has only happened once so far.
Response: coolant level (no air in system), FITV (search), IACV (DIY forum).

-ABS light is on most of the time, also an accompanying "clicking" sound from beneath the gearshift console area when I apply the brake.
Response: Get codes (DIY forum and search function). Same as ECM codes, except ABS light will flash codes as all short flashes, eg. code 4-1= ffff-p-f, where p is pause.

-Replaced master cylinder, didn't seem to affect ABS light.
Response: MC is not likely the problem. See previous response.

-Keys and doorlocks all badly worn.
Response: Lubrication and new keys may help. Driver's door lock assy may need to be replaced. This is only one that would be worn.

-Passenger front window rolls up slowly, slightly out of track, and as a result doesn't seal properly(car stays dry in the rain, but I hear a bit of whistle going down the road)
Response: New window run channel likley needed to correct. Check youtube video by ericthecarguy on this task.

good luck

 

Thanks, Tex!

-Oil leak seeming to come from the main seal area between block & tranny.
"Response: Check for valve cover, distributor and VTEC leaks. These leaks may drain to same region. If confirmed, this leak is one best left alone unless copious amount of leakage. Trans removal req'd to replace main crankshaft seal between trans and engine"

**Valve cover seems okay, didn't think about distributor. VTEC? What/where is that exactly? Definitely not gonna mess with the main seal leak just yet. Unless I'm jinxed and it needs a tranny rebuild

-Tranny shifts rough from 1st into 2nd, worse when it's cold or accelerating quickly.
"Response: Adjust trans throttle cable to spec. Drain/replace ATF. Check for trans codes, even if D4 isn't flashing. A few codes don't cause D4 to blink."

**I'll have to look into where and how to adjust the throttle cable. Any online tutorials that you know of? I found one for draining the ATF. Also need to find out how to check for codes.

-Speedometer doesn't work most of the time.
"Response: Usually means the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is faulty. ECM Code 17 or 4 (?check to confirm) should be set. If no code for VSS, the gauge panel is suspect. For sure panel is probllem if odometer is working and cruise control works."

**The odometer seems to come and go with the speedometer. The cruise control works just fine. Cold solder in the panel, maybe? Is there anyone you know of whom one can ship these to for repair?

-Dash lights don't illuminate.
"Response: Which dash lights? If Illumination only, check fuses first, dimmer can cause problems (it is turned on!). Bulbs may need replacement."

**Pretty much all of the dash lights except the radio, A/C control buttons, and block warning lights such as SRS, ABS, Check Engine, etc. Checked all fuses and they were fine. Gonna check on dimmers at my local salvage yard soon.

-Check Engine light periodically coming on.
"response: Check codes. See DIY forum for guidance."

**I will, thanks!

-Gas mileage not so hot.
"Response: Air filter, spark plugs, spark plug leads, distributor cap, rotor are first step if not done already. O2 sensor may be sluggish causing high fuel consumption."

**Air filter swapped w/ recent oil change. Tune-up/ignition stuff coming soon. Also could the fuel filter affect this? I plan on replacing that soon as well.

-Jumping rpm's at idle, but this has only happened once so far.
"Response: coolant level (no air in system), FITV (search), IACV (DIY forum)."

**As fate would have it, I was in my driveway on an incline when this happened, so the coolant level could certainly be culprit. And I'll check on FITV, IACV, Thank you.

-ABS light is on most of the time, also an accompanying "clicking" sound from beneath the gearshift console area when I apply the brake.
Response: Get codes (DIY forum and search function). Same as ECM codes, except ABS light will flash codes as all short flashes, eg. code 4-1= ffff-p-f, where p is pause.

**Thanks!

-Keys and doorlocks all badly worn.
"Response: Lubrication and new keys may help. Driver's door lock assy may need to be replaced. This is only one that would be worn."

**I was thinking along those same lines. Is there a way to get new keys made from scratch that fit correctly without making copies of the keys I have? They're pretty worn and wouldn't wanna make a copy of a badly worn copy. Also how would I go about getting a door lock assembly that matches the rest of the car's locks? Is that even possible?

-Passenger front window rolls up slowly, slightly out of track, and as a result doesn't seal properly(car stays dry in the rain, but I hear a bit of whistle going down the road)
"Response: New window run channel likley needed to correct. Check youtube video by ericthecarguy on this task."

**I will, thank you!!!

 

Vtec is described in shop manuals. Check Online Manuals post in DIY forum for download of 90-93 accord manual.

Manual shows how to adjust trans throttle cable and check for codes and DIY forum has this info also.

Google will show many services that will repair gauge panels. Another option is replacement w/ used panel (ebay or car-part.com).

Fuel filter is very unlikely to be source of missing engine. Fuel pressure is usually a go or no-go issue.

Honda can make exact replacement keys based on orginal key codes, which they would have to supply. Sometimes key codes are w/ documents in the car.

good luck

 

TX-slight typo....the OP will want the 94 manual (5th gen not 4th gen).

OP/KD1977-welcome and thanks for joining.