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Warm idle issue

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:59 AM
Fishmanmaximus's Avatar
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Default Warm idle issue

92 accord, I have to give it a little throttle to start, idles cold just fine, but when at operating temp, eventually will slowly die, then have to hold throttle slightly open to restart, then will idle for a few seconds and do it again. Otherwise car runs fine. I've cleaned the iacv,egr. It almost seems like it doesnt have enough vacuum at an idle, or like its flooding at an idle.Any ideas? P.S., no check engine light.
 

Last edited by Fishmanmaximus; 05-11-2013 at 12:18 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-11-2013, 12:39 PM
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Are the tune up items up to date?

What is the rpm on a cold start?
 
  #3  
Old 05-11-2013, 01:07 PM
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Yes,new plugs, wires, distributor, cap. Car seems to run fine when driving, and cold idle seems norm, roughly 1200-1500 depending on outside temp. When starting cold or warmed up I have to push accelerator just I little bit, then when reaches operating temp, it won't hold it's idle. It's like it gradually ran out of fuel or got to much fuel or lost vacuum. I checked the phenom for leaks but I thought a phenom leak caused a high idle. I've cleaned the iacv valve 3-4 times in the past and/or the egr valve, but this time that isn't working. Egr when removed, seems to hold vacuum, has a new gasket. Maybe the seals on the iacv are leaking? Maf sensor? I've bought this car brand new in 92, so I'm pretty in tune to its little quirks, but this one has me frustrated cuz a new iacv or egr is pretty expensive so I'm trying to not buy something that isn't broke. I think it might be due for a timing belt too, thought maybe if something jumped one tooth it could cause this problem? Needless to say, I went and got an '09, but am keeping the 92 for the new drivers in the family, lol.
 
  #4  
Old 05-11-2013, 05:13 PM
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I would check for engine and transmission codes. The common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link to check engine codes.

When you changed out the distributor cap, was there a lot of red dust in there?

There is also an important ground on the thermostat housing. Unbolt that ground and clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper. Then reattach.

You said the cold idle is around 1200. What rpm is the car stalling out when warmed up?
 
  #5  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:36 PM
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There are no codes and its a manual trans, but I will double check.
I actually replaced the distributor and distributor cap because the old distributor suffered from dry rotted wires due to age and heat, but I don't recall if there was any red dust in it.
I am gonna check that ground though, because I noticed today that every time I get out of the car and touch the door I get a little zap, even if I was only in the car for ten seconds. I don't think that's enough time to build up static, so I suspect a faulty ground somewhere in the car.
When it goes to its warm idle, it will start to fall, then recover and fall again, and do this a few times till it finally stalls. It's warm idle is roughly 750. I also have to usually press the accelerator slightly to get it to start, both warm and cold.
 
  #6  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:59 AM
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I have the same '92 MT car and had an earlier '93 MT just before it.
Both mine are high mileage 4 cyl units (200,000 miles), but in v. good condition, esp this '92.


Originally Posted by Fishmanmaximus
cold idle seems norm, roughly 1200-1500 depending on outside temp.
When starting cold or warmed up I have to push accelerator just I little bit,
Your car's cold idle and accelerator action is off-normal for that model (if my two are normal):
1) Morning start cold idle on both mine is ~2200 (like this AM start when overnight low was 62F, daytime hi was 96F).
2) Hot idle on both is 750.
3) I never touch accelerator to start.

Info to help you figure it out; I don't have answer.
 
  #7  
Old 05-12-2013, 10:20 AM
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Actually I was incorrect about the cold idle. It's up around 1700-1800.
 
  #8  
Old 06-29-2013, 04:09 AM
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Just a thought...

Have you cleaned MAF, TB, and checked o2 sensors?
 
  #9  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:17 AM
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Low idle once fully warmed indicats engine is starving for air. IACV may not be functional despite no code (movement frozen or damaged). Check for valve movement w/ 12V signal and ground to the disconnected IACV. It should move under power and retract when power is removed.

If IACV action is not correct, suggest purchasing a new or used IACV.

Fully-warmed idle w/ IACV disconnected should be 600 +/- 50 rpm. Use the idle bypass screw on TDC of the throttle body intake to adjust the idle speed. Clean throttle plate (both sides), throttle bore, and IACV inlet/outlet passages. You will need to clear code set when adjusting idle w/ IACV disconnected.

good luck
 
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