1995 Honda Accord LX 101xxx miles

So long time problem. I've bought a new battery, refurb'd alternator, new battery cables, and a new ignition switch (it was shorted and drawing a small amount).

I've put my multimeter on the battery and checked the alternator voltage as well (checked out good...differential voltage between alt and bat while charging was ~.5vdc). I pulled each fuse out one at a time to check for additional draws and replaced a couple in the process. Yesterday I removed all of the fuses just to see if anything different would happen (it didn't).

I removed my fog lights I had ran and unhooked my amp. I still need to remember to unhook my alarm/remote start and check the wiring associated with that.

Soooooo....unfortunately to me it sounds like a ground issue somewhere, but I figured it would have to be on a "fused" circuit and by pulling all the fuses it would stop the draw. Are there any circuits that I'm unaware of that do not have an associated fuse in the underhood/driver's side kick panel fuse boxes? Are there any electronic components that do not utilize a fuse/relay that I'm overlooking? This has been an ongoing battle for the better part of two years now. I'm just about done pulling my hair out and am borderline ready to take it to a shop.

Really want to get this resolved so I can get her sold! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You should be testing for amps. Watch this video on how to test for a parasitic draw.

 

Aww ya that's what I was meaning when I was testing for a parasitic draw. I read about having a differential voltage of .6v or greater meant you're battery or alternator was bad (can't remember which).

So anyways a parasitic draw drains your battery which is what is happening. Regardless if I check the voltage or amps it's still showing the same result.

I researched this for about 2 years now and have tried everything I'm capable of doing myself (everything in original post).

 

What's the current draw in amps or milliamps? Does the current stop when you pull the 80 amp battery fuse?

 

If it is still there, the one thing I can think of that is not thru the fuse panel is the starter.

 

Sorry i didn't respond sooner. So i don't actually have any noticeable drain on my battery (either my meter is broken or there isn't any draw). However, my battery is still draining when hooked up to the car. If i disconnect my neg battery cable the battery voltage remains constant. I suppose the only thing left to check is the starter, but I'm not convinced it is bad because i can still jump my car just fine and it starts up just fine when the battery is charged.

 

alright so i jumped my car battery and shut the car off and disconnected the battery (both leads). the voltage started at about 12.3v and slowly went down (about .01v/5 seconds). would i be correct to assume the battery is bad? i bought this battery about 2 months ago.

 

No, you probably should do a longer-term test. The battery plates will lose their surface-charge pretty quickly. Say it'll drop from 12.3 to 12.0 but it won't keep dropping. So leave it disconnected overnight or longer, then measure.

 

Will check the battery voltage again in the morning. Concerning the starter, am I correct to assume it is "a" culprit in draining my battery even though it appears to be functioning properly?

 

This is normally something that was installed like an aftermarket stereo system or alarm. Prolly a silly question but do you have any extra wires coming off the positive terminal ?