Ok, so after perusing this forum for a while, I'm still left with a few questions.

I have read your opinions on Ebay headers and I'm kind of stuck here anyway.
As I stated in my previous post, money is very tight, and my exhaust is very rotted.

My muffler fell off over the winter (just took a straight pipe and clamped it on the end can't see it from the the side, and put a chrome tip on the end to make it look legit) The latest problem (and last straw) is that the pipe broke away from the back of the flange that connects to the back of the Cat Converter.

As stated earlier, all the steel braiding is gone from the flex pipe, though there are no holes in the flex pipe itself. The cat seems to be solid, though amazingly rusted externally.

So, I was looking at something like these headers,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-...ht_2254wt_1210

Along with this Cat which is most likely just a test pipe (because the current setup is stock, so I wouldn't want it to choke down to go into the current cat)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...ht_4065wt_1194

And this Catback system
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...ht_6783wt_1150

(these are not all exactly what I might get, just examples of what they have somewhere within my price range)

Now, here's my problem...

EVERY header + downpipe they have is a 2" outlet, and every Cat (dare I say test pipe) is 2.5" inlet/outlet. Now, from what I can tell in the pictures, which isn't saying much, it looks as though the flanges are the same size, and just the tubing diameter is different.

The Catbacks are pretty much all 2.5" inlets, which is fine.

What would your suggestion be?

All the cats that I find "say" they are direct bolt on to stock, the downpipes and catbacks state the same. Do I run the risk, or is this standard, every place I've visited doesn't necessarily state the outlet sizes on the downpipes.

*edit* the reason for doing it this way as opposed to just getting stock - the fact that this is much cheaper than getting a new stock setup, and that it will boost performance, even minimally.*/edit*

 

go to a pick n pull or junk yard and grab yourself a f22a4 header. Or there is a guy in the FS area that is parting out 2 cb7s. Your better off with the f22a4 header...why is b/c ebay is total junk for the most part. and spending 45bucks on a header and down pipe...well dont expect it to last more than a month or so. Im sure you will be havin leakin issues. The f22a4 header you can pick them up for about 30bucks. Yes it is used but it will last 4ever. Also the f22a4 header out performs all that ebay crap. I v have tried. I have had couple name brand header (megan) and the f22a4 ran much much better than my $200 megan header. Its al about how its engineered not how it looks.
The cat back looks fine try it out. But Id ditch that nasty lookin fart can...but thats just me.
That "high flow cat" is nothing but a resonated test pipe...not a real cat

 

G22 -

1) Sorry bout this noobish question, but what Model and Year would I find one of these headers on, have a couple Pick n Pulls in the area.


2) The reason I was looking at the header package is because my down pipe (really the flex pipe part of it) is in not great condition, so is there something that I should look for, again on a tight budget, because I'd hate to just get an A4 header, but have it squeeze into a stock downpipe, especially since I'm looking at replacing the Cat and Catback exhaust.

3) I figured that the "cat" was just a resonated test pipe, yet again I'm trying to get the exhaust flowing more freely, so for $30 do you feel that it would be a good investment.

I also found the following over at Honda-tech forums (I'm a member there too)


How do you feel about the above suggestions (to be done at a future time when I have a bit more money) for improved performance?

 

1) 90-93 accord EX
2)the f22a4 down pipe it mate with the header. They where ment for each other..lol
3) it will be little more raspy even more so with the new exhaust.

Yes tho are really good and cheep mods to do for our accords. You can yeild around 150ish w/o a tune with a tune I dont see why you cant hit 160hp

 

Well, I put my car up on a lift this afternoon, because I had it jacked, and it looked like the flex pipe was fine, minus the steel braiding. As it was jacked I was trying to remove the flange from the back of the cat, and it torqued ever so slightly on the flex pipe and now that has a nice crack in it. So it looks like a whole new setup is needed. You know of anywhere to even get an OEM downpipe/flexpipe? The yards in my area have idiots behind the wheels of the Loaders, and there is not a decent exhaust piece to be had anywhere in the area (minus the header itself).

And further, that "Cat" even with the 2.5" piping with mate up to a stock downpipe do you think?

 

also check out cb7tuner.com its for our cars only

that cat shoud I have a ebay test pipe and mine bolted right to my stock exhaust

local you prob. wont find one. But I have seen them online for like 40-60bucks. Gots to do some searching...I found them on google while back.

 

Alright, thanks for the info man, and thanks for taking the time to help out a Tuning newb.

 

its all good....that's why we are here

 

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=33260

this guy has a a4 header 4sale. Then maybe find some who has a down pipe?..
well actually to think about it I have a old down pipe from a f22b1. This will bolt right up to the a4 header...but it is about a in lower to the ground then the a4 header b/c the vtec head sits a tad bit higher in the engine bay. But if your not lowered or lowered much it will work fine. I have the same downpipe on my car and Im slammed to the ground it works but I hit it on things all the time. But like I said if your not dropped more than a inch or 2 you will be fine.
I will give you the down pipe for free if you want it...you just pay to ship it?...let me know
The only catch to the down pipe is there is no flex pipe. But you can just cut the flange off and weld a pipe and the bung for the o2 sensor.