you can use a AEM bypass valve on your CAI and you won't hydrolock your engine

 

i have a 2002 honda accord vp. yes crap but it was a good deal so i dealt with it. i just bought an aem sri for it. is that going to cause any issues with the engine? because it seems like k and n and most other companies dont make it for my engine.
also someone mentioned that it takes in hot air when idling. if i idled for a long time, and i started driving, would that cause any issues?
and lastly, anyone know where i can find a picture diagram for installation. this is my first mod to any car outside of speakers and headunits, and when i read the instructions, i got kind of confused. youtube has no tutorials for this year accord or the sri aem intake

 

What motor do you have in that car?

 

They have all kind of intake for it, Injen,K&N,AEM look on Ebay.

 

EngineType: Aluminum Alloy: In-Line 4
Displacement (liters): 2.3
Horsepower @ rpm (SAE net): 150 @ 5700*
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm): 152 @ 4900*
Compression Ratio: 9.3: 1
Valve Train: SOHC: 16-ValveVTEC™
Fuel System: Multi-Point Fuel Injection
Ignition System: Electronic w/Immobilizer

*148-hp @ 5700/148 lb.-ft. @ 4900 on ULEV-rated models†145-hp @5700/144 lb-ft @ 4900 on SULEV model (EX-L) available in California only.

 

I have a 7th gen accord v6 coupe (2005) and am looking for a Short Ram intake, but it seems to be limited... though there are plenty of CAI. Suggestions?

 

I'm gonna revive this... So I've read through this and many other forums and I think I've decided that I want to put an AEM Short Ram Intake onto my 2003 Accord I4. I've been looking at this here: http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...2-511_inst.pdf

In looking through the installation instructions though, it looks like the end result has the piping following the exact same path as the stock hose piping. Since this specific SRI for a gen 7 Accord I4 has the intake filter equally as far away from the engine as the stock setup, is there really any point to putting the SRI on? In case I haven't made my question clear enough.. if an SRI is supposed to reduce the distance that the air has to travel to get into the engine, and this SRI follows the exact same path/distance as the stock setup, then what's the point?
Also, since people on here have claimed that the downside to an SRI is that the closer intake filter to the engine will increase the air temp and hurt power/MPG, wouldn't that be irrelevant since this new SRI would be in the same spot that the stock one was?

 

Hurt power? Yes.

Hurt fuel economy? No. Why? Because when the warmer the intake charge, the better the fuel atomizes, and the better the fuel atomization, the more even the burn which results in more power for any given amount of fuel.

 

Thanks! Okay I think I understand that portion.
Any thoughts on if the Short Ram Intake would be worth it since it's going right into essentially the same position where the stock intake was?

 

Let's start with what an intake does:

• Routes all the air an engine can use from the front of the car (typically from a relatively cool area in front of the heat exchangers).
• Is acoustically tuned to generate optimal intake resonance at typical operating RPMs.
• Filters the intake air.
• Silences the intake air.
• Heats the intake air when necessary (like following a cold start or when operating in extremely cold conditions; this function can also, and frequently is, performed in the throttle body instead of the intake).

My standard bit of advice is that aftermarket intakes don't do squat for the performance (or fuel economy) of a car, so don't waste your time or money. Why? The designers of modern automobile engines know virtually all of the tricks and as a general rule are far-FAR more educated and versed (in a real-world sense) than aftermarket engineers. Factory intakes typically provide the very best balance of the various (and often competing) tasks an intake is required to perform, regardless of whether we're talking about performance, economy, silencing the intake (some folks like a quiet intake, most folks don't), and last but not least, cleaning the air.

Generally speaking, comparing aftermarket intakes to those from the manufacturer:

• Some aftermarket intakes perform marginally better from the power and performance perspective when the engine is up near redline, however, most also cause the engine to lose some midrange torque. This is typically attributed to the difference in the tuning or harmonic resonance imparted to the intake charge.
• Most aftermarket are horribly inefficient at cleaning the air compared to the factory filtering.
• Most aftermarket intakes do a poor job of silencing the intake charge (could be a good thing depending upon one's perspective).
• Depending upon the aftermarket unit, the intake charge may be generally warmer (short ram type), which will not aid performance, and will yield little if any gain in fuel economy due to the efficiency of modern fuel injection systems. Other aftermarket intakes which take the "cold air" ingestion thing to the extreme are also highly susceptible to drawing water into the engine (and destroying the engine in the process) if the car is driven through a moderately deep puddle.

There are lots of folks who swear by aftermarket intakes and will give you long anecdotal stories of how great they are, but in the end, an aftermarket intake really won't do much.