GReddy SP2 on 7th generation Accord
#1
10-13-2007, 05:19 PM
GReddy SP2 on 7th generation Accord
My Review of the GReddy SP2 on a 7th Gen Accord, and my findings...
Well to start it off, I just installed the GReddy SP2's on my 7th Gen Accord, and I love it!!!!! It sounds real nice, and I can definitely tell a performance difference!
Thanks to all those that have helped me along my way here so far:
[ul][*]accords own[*]falcore24[*]velocifero[/ul][hr]
Preparation:
During our prep we essentially let some Kroil set on the rusted nuts n bolt piece on the Cat connected to the back-pipe.
We also unhooked the negative terminal while doing the work to clear the ECU. When we're done we'll let the ECU relearn it's idle, and hopefully some mixture specs. I need to read more on this, but I'm going to also test a cleared/reset ECU to get a "butt-o-meter" difference calculation.
During the install, we also found that pre-lubricating the rubber hangers made it easier to pop them off. See, the original exhaust had some nipples on the hanger flanges from the piping, which really held it onto the car; the SP2 actually just had longer hanger flanges with a bend to allow gravity (as well as the snuggness of the rubber hangers) to keep it in. (See Implementation for more)
Implementation:
I was going to make a DIY for this setup on the 7th gen, but it was SUCH a no brainer..
We were able to do the entire job and get it back on all fours (with an addition of replacing the front disc rotors) in exactly 47 minutes. From 1-10 on a hardness level, I'd say a 2-3....
On my particular setup, stock did -not- have a gasket on the Cat to the back-pipe connection, which was lucky we bought one anyway. On that note, neither ORielly nor AutoZone had a part number for this gasket on any 7th gen and up. It so happened that the 2002 part number they had matched perfectly.
The back muffler and tip were held on by a much thicker rubber hanger than the rest. My suggestion is to get a small common screwdriver, shove it down there after lubing it, and push the entire original cat-back to the front of the car to get that sucker out. Once the nipple went in one end, it was pretty easy after that.
Post-Installation
I could tell you the FIRST thing we did, but it may actually be keen for you to know that there's probably a more important step....
And that's to properly adjust your tip before playing with it.
Errrm.. What I mean to say is make sure nothing is touching your bumper plastic. It doesn't smell good, and could lead to some nasty paint problems it seemed. The first thing I noticed was how the tip on the SP2 was coming out at a direct perpendicular point off the muffler; where the stock tip was actually pointing downward about 35-40 degrees. This angle wasn't, what's the word, elegant... It was actually part of the muffler dented in below the tip as if they bent the hell out of it just to get it down.
We managed to do some monkeying to get things to work smoothly for us:
[ul][*]Take a hydrolic jack and place a 2x4 across the jack-point, and pump it up to the base of the muffer, just on the other side of the exhaust tip.[*]Place something thick and protective in the tip, like a pair of workers gloves or some thick padding This will protect the exhaust tip from scratches as well as distribute the pressure load on the tip itself to avoid warping it to hell.[*]Once plenty of pressure is applied from the jack onto the muffler, take something strong (we used a Sportster fork that was removed from my buddy's upgrades to his Harley that fit in the tip nicely; I'm sure a large breaker bar or crowbar would work) and pry that sunnabitch down hard... you're not going to hurt it, I promise (but take precaution, I don't warranty anything
). [*]Release and lower jack, and spot check to see if any spots of your bumper are touching your tip... Rinse & repeat if necessary.[/ul]It's ok to lower the car at this point, but we kept ours in the air to check for any leaks.
The next thing to do is let your ECU do it's relearning phase. Simply plug the Negative Terminal back on your battery, and start the car. Don't touch anything, just let it idle for 10 minutes. When I did this, at about the 5-6 minute mark I could hear the idle adjusting and a demeanor change in the car. It was nice to witness.
Noteworthy Points:
Aside from all the things I've pointed out above, these are some points I wanted to make about this product.
First we'll start with the Pros...
[ul][*]This stainless steel is really solid, it feels like a sturdy product.[*]The sound is great, doesn't sound like a lame ricer car. It's a muted purr in a sense, not really a rip.[*]It bolts in place immediately with hardly any struggle. It's suggested to work with a partner to make it go faster. We had 2 people. This also means that it's a fast install, and no need for install instructions.[/ul]Aaaaand the Cons...
[ul][*]Didn't come with a gasket to the Cat, but came with the others.[*]The bolts that come with it are a "grade 3" or lower level. The lockwasher dug into the nut as it was tightened, causing not only the lockwasher to warp and separate (to be almost a regular washer) it ripped up the nut quite a bit and could have been a nasty snag on a finger.[*]Too easy![*]Price? I got it at cost, but that still wasn't cheap.[/ul]
All in all, I think this is a great product, and was a snap to install. If I were to do it again, I'd go with the same choice.
Well to start it off, I just installed the GReddy SP2's on my 7th Gen Accord, and I love it!!!!! It sounds real nice, and I can definitely tell a performance difference!
Thanks to all those that have helped me along my way here so far:
[ul][*]accords own[*]falcore24[*]velocifero[/ul][hr]
Preparation:
During our prep we essentially let some Kroil set on the rusted nuts n bolt piece on the Cat connected to the back-pipe.
We also unhooked the negative terminal while doing the work to clear the ECU. When we're done we'll let the ECU relearn it's idle, and hopefully some mixture specs. I need to read more on this, but I'm going to also test a cleared/reset ECU to get a "butt-o-meter" difference calculation.
During the install, we also found that pre-lubricating the rubber hangers made it easier to pop them off. See, the original exhaust had some nipples on the hanger flanges from the piping, which really held it onto the car; the SP2 actually just had longer hanger flanges with a bend to allow gravity (as well as the snuggness of the rubber hangers) to keep it in. (See Implementation for more)
Implementation:
I was going to make a DIY for this setup on the 7th gen, but it was SUCH a no brainer..
We were able to do the entire job and get it back on all fours (with an addition of replacing the front disc rotors) in exactly 47 minutes. From 1-10 on a hardness level, I'd say a 2-3....
On my particular setup, stock did -not- have a gasket on the Cat to the back-pipe connection, which was lucky we bought one anyway. On that note, neither ORielly nor AutoZone had a part number for this gasket on any 7th gen and up. It so happened that the 2002 part number they had matched perfectly.
The back muffler and tip were held on by a much thicker rubber hanger than the rest. My suggestion is to get a small common screwdriver, shove it down there after lubing it, and push the entire original cat-back to the front of the car to get that sucker out. Once the nipple went in one end, it was pretty easy after that.
Post-Installation
I could tell you the FIRST thing we did, but it may actually be keen for you to know that there's probably a more important step....
And that's to properly adjust your tip before playing with it.
Errrm.. What I mean to say is make sure nothing is touching your bumper plastic. It doesn't smell good, and could lead to some nasty paint problems it seemed. The first thing I noticed was how the tip on the SP2 was coming out at a direct perpendicular point off the muffler; where the stock tip was actually pointing downward about 35-40 degrees. This angle wasn't, what's the word, elegant... It was actually part of the muffler dented in below the tip as if they bent the hell out of it just to get it down.
We managed to do some monkeying to get things to work smoothly for us:
[ul][*]Take a hydrolic jack and place a 2x4 across the jack-point, and pump it up to the base of the muffer, just on the other side of the exhaust tip.[*]Place something thick and protective in the tip, like a pair of workers gloves or some thick padding This will protect the exhaust tip from scratches as well as distribute the pressure load on the tip itself to avoid warping it to hell.[*]Once plenty of pressure is applied from the jack onto the muffler, take something strong (we used a Sportster fork that was removed from my buddy's upgrades to his Harley that fit in the tip nicely; I'm sure a large breaker bar or crowbar would work) and pry that sunnabitch down hard... you're not going to hurt it, I promise (but take precaution, I don't warranty anything
). [*]Release and lower jack, and spot check to see if any spots of your bumper are touching your tip... Rinse & repeat if necessary.[/ul]It's ok to lower the car at this point, but we kept ours in the air to check for any leaks.The next thing to do is let your ECU do it's relearning phase. Simply plug the Negative Terminal back on your battery, and start the car. Don't touch anything, just let it idle for 10 minutes. When I did this, at about the 5-6 minute mark I could hear the idle adjusting and a demeanor change in the car. It was nice to witness.
Noteworthy Points:
Aside from all the things I've pointed out above, these are some points I wanted to make about this product.
First we'll start with the Pros...
[ul][*]This stainless steel is really solid, it feels like a sturdy product.[*]The sound is great, doesn't sound like a lame ricer car. It's a muted purr in a sense, not really a rip.[*]It bolts in place immediately with hardly any struggle. It's suggested to work with a partner to make it go faster. We had 2 people. This also means that it's a fast install, and no need for install instructions.[/ul]Aaaaand the Cons...
[ul][*]Didn't come with a gasket to the Cat, but came with the others.[*]The bolts that come with it are a "grade 3" or lower level. The lockwasher dug into the nut as it was tightened, causing not only the lockwasher to warp and separate (to be almost a regular washer) it ripped up the nut quite a bit and could have been a nasty snag on a finger.[*]Too easy![*]Price? I got it at cost, but that still wasn't cheap.[/ul]
All in all, I think this is a great product, and was a snap to install. If I were to do it again, I'd go with the same choice.
#3
10-13-2007, 05:56 PM
RE: GReddy SP2 on 7th generation Accord
another SP2 in the house...sweet! post some pics if you can.
#4
10-14-2007, 01:00 AM
RE: GReddy SP2 on 7th generation Accord
I've updated my original post to be more of a review.
Yeah I am going to get all around pictures of my car.... after the mods
I still have a CAI, Koni Pros and Eibach springs to do; as well as install the turbo2 aftermarket dash kit with a nice jvc radio with usb and probably that diy dashboard one, that bl00 looks cool
can't wait!
Yeah I am going to get all around pictures of my car.... after the mods
I still have a CAI, Koni Pros and Eibach springs to do; as well as install the turbo2 aftermarket dash kit with a nice jvc radio with usb
and probably that diy dashboard one, that bl00 looks coolcan't wait!
so i can entertain myself either sitting in heavy traffic or when I have to wait for my next class.
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