Header for 93 accord?
110% tru!
The f22a4 header out performs the Megan racing header. Iv had both OEM and Megan the OEM holds down your tq. and keeps a good flow in high end. The Megan racing header doesn’t hold down the tq. but will gain you in the high end. Look at it this way. Why do you want to lose tq when you have long gears??? Now if you are running a b series tranny then yes build for the high end HP b/c with a good bit a tq. your creating nothing but wheel spin.
The Megan allowed my f22a to rev out to 6200rpms...but stock f22a stops making power after 5800rpms so all your doing is a "dead rev" or you can look at it as your just turning the tranny to hit higher rpm in the next gear. But since we aren’t running vtec it don’t mean s*it b/c we always fall into power band on non vtec unless your a really really bad shifter and somehow end up dropping down under 3k everythime you shift.
Like I said be4 don’t waste your money on a header unless you wanna spend some big $$$ you have purty much the best of the best that your gonna get unless you start building the motor up ALOT.
Nothing agents you 19Accord97 but I have a diff. point of view then you do.
The Megan allowed my f22a to rev out to 6200rpms...but stock f22a stops making power after 5800rpms so all your doing is a "dead rev" or you can look at it as your just turning the tranny to hit higher rpm in the next gear. But since we aren’t running vtec it don’t mean s*it b/c we always fall into power band on non vtec unless your a really really bad shifter and somehow end up dropping down under 3k everythime you shift.
Like I said be4 don’t waste your money on a header unless you wanna spend some big $$$ you have purty much the best of the best that your gonna get unless you start building the motor up ALOT.
Nothing agents you 19Accord97 but I have a diff. point of view then you do.
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
I'd still prefer an aftermarket header.
Our cars our not fast and are even less of a competition off the line. In a drag racing type of situation, a stock header would be better in a sense.
However, for an average driver that prefers to floor it when they are already moving, an aftermarket header would be a better choice. The Honda 4cyl motors make most of their power in the upper rpms, which is where you'll notice and aftermarket header.
I had an OBX header (junk) and am now back to my stock manifold b/c the OBX warped. If I had the funds, the stock manifold would be off in 2 seconds. Hondas weren't made for torque and I don't even bother racing, letalone digging from a stop.
To each his own, but in my final thought/suggestion, if you want some power @ top end and aren't planning on racing from every stop sign, I would suggest an aftermarket header which has identical length runners which is much more beneficial.
Our cars our not fast and are even less of a competition off the line. In a drag racing type of situation, a stock header would be better in a sense.
However, for an average driver that prefers to floor it when they are already moving, an aftermarket header would be a better choice. The Honda 4cyl motors make most of their power in the upper rpms, which is where you'll notice and aftermarket header.
I had an OBX header (junk) and am now back to my stock manifold b/c the OBX warped. If I had the funds, the stock manifold would be off in 2 seconds. Hondas weren't made for torque and I don't even bother racing, letalone digging from a stop.
To each his own, but in my final thought/suggestion, if you want some power @ top end and aren't planning on racing from every stop sign, I would suggest an aftermarket header which has identical length runners which is much more beneficial.
I have to correct you f22a1 engine was designed sticky for tq. even know it didn’t make much (134lbs stock it still made more tq then HP (125hp stock)) Honda made it for a economical hwy traveling car that had good MID range power that wouldn’t lack when pushed the gas pedal a little at higher hwy speeds. That’s why F series don’t come with dohc EXCEPT for the JDM f22b/f20. That’s why all honda sohc engines run AWSOME at MID range power band and have long gears.
Last edited by g22cd5; Feb 2, 2010 at 03:51 PM.
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
I don't know much about that exhaust manifold, but if it keeps TQ in no way can it increase hp more than an aftermarket header.
Torque comes from backpressure. When you have a cat back, high flow cat, and a header, alot of the restriction (backpressure) is relieved. While this reduces torque, the hp increase because the engine is allowed to breathe much more easily. If you had identical cars, one w/ the mods listed above and a stock, the stock would possibly beat it off the line, but once the modded car starts getting in the high rpms near shift changes, it would all be over.
I'm not saying that is a bad manifold or a bad choice. I am saying that each have their own pros and cons. But in general, with motors such as ours, a header is either going to increase tq or hp. You can't have an increase in backpressure and a increase in hp from one part.
Torque comes from backpressure. When you have a cat back, high flow cat, and a header, alot of the restriction (backpressure) is relieved. While this reduces torque, the hp increase because the engine is allowed to breathe much more easily. If you had identical cars, one w/ the mods listed above and a stock, the stock would possibly beat it off the line, but once the modded car starts getting in the high rpms near shift changes, it would all be over.
I'm not saying that is a bad manifold or a bad choice. I am saying that each have their own pros and cons. But in general, with motors such as ours, a header is either going to increase tq or hp. You can't have an increase in backpressure and a increase in hp from one part.
Yeah but when you delete your cat that is just like having a aftermarket header. Then you slap on a crap-o header and your back press is practically gone. You need to be cam-ed to make your engine respond to the lack of back press correctly. If not you might be able to rev to 6-8k but your not making ANY power doing it. Why would you want to rev out of your power band? Just to turn the tranny and burn out your valves for not having enough back press? I’m a very strong believer when it comes to back press. If it’s on a 98765hp car or not you still need a certain amount of press. to make things work correctly.
*EDIT* Run a open header on your car for a week then switch back to a stock exhaust tell me what runs better. I mean that pruty much what your saying. Less back press more hp.
Also again I’m not trying to pick a fight I just have a strong option.
*EDIT* Run a open header on your car for a week then switch back to a stock exhaust tell me what runs better. I mean that pruty much what your saying. Less back press more hp.
Also again I’m not trying to pick a fight I just have a strong option.
Last edited by g22cd5; Feb 2, 2010 at 04:16 PM.
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Well obviously you need backpressure to make the vehicle move. A header and whether you have a cat or not is still going to cause backpressure. Any bend in the exhaust system creates backpressure. There are more than enough bends to cause enough backpressure if you have a test pipe, header, and cat back exhaust. TONS of people do this w/o any problem. In no way could having the above mods burn out any sort of valves or turn the tranny, though I don't quite understand what exactly you mean by that.
In either case, you will end up w/ more HP with an aftermarket header, than any stock manifold and even more w/ a test pipe and aftermarket cat. If that weren't true, no one would do the above mods and there wouldn't be so many aftermarket parts.
In either case, you will end up w/ more HP with an aftermarket header, than any stock manifold and even more w/ a test pipe and aftermarket cat. If that weren't true, no one would do the above mods and there wouldn't be so many aftermarket parts.
A lack of back press can and will burn up your exhaust valves it been proven. By turning the tranny I mean revving out of your power band so you fall higher in the RPM range when switching into a higher gear. EXP. stock f22a1 stopped making power @ 5800rpm...but since there is a lack of back press the engine can rev out to 6kish now. What would be the point of that??...to just be at a higher RPM in the next higher gear.
Also what I was getting at with keeping your tq is we have retarded long gears on f series trannys. Why would you want to sacrifice tq for revving out of your power band? That just doesn’t make sense your losing power just so you can hit 6500rpm. So that you might be 3-4 hundred rpms higher in the next gear but your falling out of the power band quicker thus losing power. I completely understand where your coming from if you were to build a d/b series b/c that’s all they are is high end power they are tq. less as hell and have wicked short gears. But with f series engines IMP need to keep all the tq. you can get since we have long gears. This also saves on your gas millage b/c you still retain your tq at lower rpms when cursing so you don't have to push as hard on the throttle to get to the same place.
Also what I was getting at with keeping your tq is we have retarded long gears on f series trannys. Why would you want to sacrifice tq for revving out of your power band? That just doesn’t make sense your losing power just so you can hit 6500rpm. So that you might be 3-4 hundred rpms higher in the next gear but your falling out of the power band quicker thus losing power. I completely understand where your coming from if you were to build a d/b series b/c that’s all they are is high end power they are tq. less as hell and have wicked short gears. But with f series engines IMP need to keep all the tq. you can get since we have long gears. This also saves on your gas millage b/c you still retain your tq at lower rpms when cursing so you don't have to push as hard on the throttle to get to the same place.
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
It depends if you have manual or auto.
An auto won't allow the rpm's to go beyond the computer controlled limit. In a manual, you can decide when and where you want to shift. In either case, the auto will prevent it and the manual would be your fault.
Have you actually had an aftermarket header vs the factory manifold? I have.
You keep stating stuff about the power band and revving up to it. The only time you will be doing that is when you have WOT.
At cruising speeds you still will get better mpg w/ a free flowing exhaust over a backpressure filled exhaust. It is just like an intake, you get better mpg b/c there is much less restriction which allows more air in. Less backpressure allows the exhaust to escape easily and since the tubes are the same length the sequence of the exhaust valves opening are actually helped by that.
When I had an sri, header, and cat back I got much better mpg. Now that I have an sri, catback, and stock manifold my mpg is worse. I still don't get what the big deal is about torque, when I had a header I had no problems w/ the slight tq I lost.
In the end, again, I would much rather have an aftermarket header. I had one and noticed a great performance improvement especially when passing and in the higher rpms. Yes I lost torque, but thats what downshifting is for. The backpressure from the stock manifold bogs my car down and I can tell. The restriction is terrible.
In any case, do as you please but I have had personal experience and you know my viewpoint and firsthand experience. There is a reason why if you are doing any N/A mods the I/H/E mods are the very first ones.
An auto won't allow the rpm's to go beyond the computer controlled limit. In a manual, you can decide when and where you want to shift. In either case, the auto will prevent it and the manual would be your fault.
Have you actually had an aftermarket header vs the factory manifold? I have.
You keep stating stuff about the power band and revving up to it. The only time you will be doing that is when you have WOT.
At cruising speeds you still will get better mpg w/ a free flowing exhaust over a backpressure filled exhaust. It is just like an intake, you get better mpg b/c there is much less restriction which allows more air in. Less backpressure allows the exhaust to escape easily and since the tubes are the same length the sequence of the exhaust valves opening are actually helped by that.
When I had an sri, header, and cat back I got much better mpg. Now that I have an sri, catback, and stock manifold my mpg is worse. I still don't get what the big deal is about torque, when I had a header I had no problems w/ the slight tq I lost.
In the end, again, I would much rather have an aftermarket header. I had one and noticed a great performance improvement especially when passing and in the higher rpms. Yes I lost torque, but thats what downshifting is for. The backpressure from the stock manifold bogs my car down and I can tell. The restriction is terrible.
In any case, do as you please but I have had personal experience and you know my viewpoint and firsthand experience. There is a reason why if you are doing any N/A mods the I/H/E mods are the very first ones.
It depends if you have manual or auto.
An auto won't allow the rpm's to go beyond the computer controlled limit. In a manual, you can decide when and where you want to shift. In either case, the auto will prevent it and the manual would be your fault.
Have you actually had an aftermarket header vs the factory manifold? I have.
You keep stating stuff about the power band and revving up to it. The only time you will be doing that is when you have WOT.
At cruising speeds you still will get better mpg w/ a free flowing exhaust over a backpressure filled exhaust. It is just like an intake, you get better mpg b/c there is much less restriction which allows more air in. Less backpressure allows the exhaust to escape easily and since the tubes are the same length the sequence of the exhaust valves opening are actually helped by that.
When I had an sri, header, and cat back I got much better mpg. Now that I have an sri, catback, and stock manifold my mpg is worse. I still don't get what the big deal is about torque, when I had a header I had no problems w/ the slight tq I lost.
In the end, again, I would much rather have an aftermarket header. I had one and noticed a great performance improvement especially when passing and in the higher rpms. Yes I lost torque, but thats what downshifting is for. The backpressure from the stock manifold bogs my car down and I can tell. The restriction is terrible.
In any case, do as you please but I have had personal experience and you know my viewpoint and firsthand experience. There is a reason why if you are doing any N/A mods the I/H/E mods are the very first ones.
An auto won't allow the rpm's to go beyond the computer controlled limit. In a manual, you can decide when and where you want to shift. In either case, the auto will prevent it and the manual would be your fault.
Have you actually had an aftermarket header vs the factory manifold? I have.
You keep stating stuff about the power band and revving up to it. The only time you will be doing that is when you have WOT.
At cruising speeds you still will get better mpg w/ a free flowing exhaust over a backpressure filled exhaust. It is just like an intake, you get better mpg b/c there is much less restriction which allows more air in. Less backpressure allows the exhaust to escape easily and since the tubes are the same length the sequence of the exhaust valves opening are actually helped by that.
When I had an sri, header, and cat back I got much better mpg. Now that I have an sri, catback, and stock manifold my mpg is worse. I still don't get what the big deal is about torque, when I had a header I had no problems w/ the slight tq I lost.
In the end, again, I would much rather have an aftermarket header. I had one and noticed a great performance improvement especially when passing and in the higher rpms. Yes I lost torque, but thats what downshifting is for. The backpressure from the stock manifold bogs my car down and I can tell. The restriction is terrible.
In any case, do as you please but I have had personal experience and you know my viewpoint and firsthand experience. There is a reason why if you are doing any N/A mods the I/H/E mods are the very first ones.
Yes sir I have. I have had a No named ebay header and also a megan racing header. My OEM f22a4 header out preformed both an I’m running oem header with a moded 94 ex exhaust (just a tad bit bigger than non vtec from cat back) with a resonator in place of the cat.
Why I haven’t gone internally yet is b/c I have a g22 build I’m working on. So I don't see the need crack open this engine. So I just did bolt ons for some little more power since this is my DD. Also I have 210k I don't see a point in messing with that engine since I have a boosted one that MIGHT takes its place. I’m not sure yet I really want a 92 gsr teg to do this swap b/c I like cable over hydro clutch and that would be a supper rare swap. It's more of a direct feel too me and I get better reaction times with cable b/c I can feel the clutch right when it's 1st starting to grab over hydro I personally can't feel it. We both have a very strong opinion which is good. This thread makes for a good read with good info from BOTH sides.


