So I wanna get something for my girls car for the holidays this year, but I don't know what the best thing to get would be. She wants some more hp, she don't care how. I'm kind of looking around the $400 range I guess. Catback exhaust would be nice, but it's over budget. I'm thinking cold air, full pulley set, header, something like that. But whats ganna get the best performance gain? Any ideas would be great, thanks. Oh, the car has no mods yet, this will be the start of it all.

 

For $400 - I'm assuming its the 01 accord in your sig - Intake, header, tint.

 

ebay cheepie SRI, name brand air filter (many equivalents to choose from: K&N, Injen, Skunk2, Amsoil, etc.) thats about $50 max.

The crank pulley does the most, so I'd go with the UR S (underdriven, I have this with the other 2 as well, but you want budget) $190

Custom 2.25 pipe from cat to resonator probably around $100

That leaves $60 ...... about what the instalation on the crank pulley will cost! There it is! Don't get rid of the resonator and also consider getting a real cat-back, but for the money, this is the way to go. Don't forget about maintenance though ..... spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV valve, etc.

A header will reduce your low-end torque a bit. If she does a lot of city or stop-&-go driving, the stock manifold will be more comfortable to drive on then a header.

 

I've heard rumors that swapping the crank pulley doesn't do much of anything
Good luck getting the bolt loose[sm=smiley20.gif] !

 

Best bang for the buck? Got $400 to spend? One word......NITROUS [sm=nxsmile.gif]

 

LOL .... he's right, but most I've seen are around $500.

I like my pulleys. No before and after dyno, but I'm pretty sure that they help the engine rip up faster which in turn allows the engine to build power faster.

Not for you 00 (I'm just pretty sure that someone's going to object without a good reason), but if anyone wants to debate this, please have data or a good physics explanation of why you don't agree

 

The reasoning I have read indicated that a smaller the underdrive pulleys would not spin fast enough to properly run the stock alternator. Also the A/C was rumored not to blow as cold due to the compressor not being able to spin fast enough. That would NOT be for me since it hits 100 all the time in MS!

 

From what I've read, the stock alt is good up to a 600W RMS system while underdriven. AC is my expertise. In your case, I agree that you need every drop of freon that you can get, but for a more temperate climate such as NYC, the system is rarely maxed out. At partial load (most of the time when it's under 90 degrees) the system will not show any differance since the pressures of the refrigerant are held by an orifice valve (no self regulating). If cars used TXV's, then there would be a differance since the oriface can open up to allow instant full load cooling. The valing is a bit complicated, especailly when you get into TXV's with pressure taps and evap temp. bulbs. Not a discussion for here.

 

^ That's exactly what I thought. if I lived in a climate that was not like a steam room in the summer, I would probably buy some pullies.

 

They wouldn't do much if you hardly push 4k rpms. I hit 7k every day!