My intro
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
From: Georgia
My intro
Hello
Ive posted before but never made an intro. I'm from GA. My wife and I have a 96 Honda Accord. We just got it and love it. Infact I'm about to use the money I was going to fix my old Volvo to get me an Accord. (Volvo parts are expensive and hard to find). I look forward to meeting yall
Mike
Ive posted before but never made an intro. I'm from GA. My wife and I have a 96 Honda Accord. We just got it and love it. Infact I'm about to use the money I was going to fix my old Volvo to get me an Accord. (Volvo parts are expensive and hard to find). I look forward to meeting yall
Mike
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
Mike,
Welcome to HAF
If you find "something" that looks good, you can always ask if we know anything about "those Accords"......all cars have their "little things" and we can point out anything to "look out/check out" before purchase.
BTW - the 5th gens (94-97) are one of the best IMO. They are almost bulit proof if regular maint items are taken car of.
Anyway, thanks for joining.
Welcome to HAF
If you find "something" that looks good, you can always ask if we know anything about "those Accords"......all cars have their "little things" and we can point out anything to "look out/check out" before purchase.
BTW - the 5th gens (94-97) are one of the best IMO. They are almost bulit proof if regular maint items are taken car of.
Anyway, thanks for joining.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
From: Georgia
Mike,
Welcome to HAF
If you find "something" that looks good, you can always ask if we know anything about "those Accords"......all cars have their "little things" and we can point out anything to "look out/check out" before purchase.
BTW - the 5th gens (94-97) are one of the best IMO. They are almost bulit proof if regular maint items are taken car of.
Anyway, thanks for joining.
Welcome to HAF
If you find "something" that looks good, you can always ask if we know anything about "those Accords"......all cars have their "little things" and we can point out anything to "look out/check out" before purchase.
BTW - the 5th gens (94-97) are one of the best IMO. They are almost bulit proof if regular maint items are taken car of.
Anyway, thanks for joining.
I found 4 somethings so far lol. My wife's is a 5th gen and my uncle had a 5th gen so i know how good they are. How are the 4th gens? cos the price Im looking at (under 2000) I found three 4th gens and one 5th gen in good shape.
Heres the 5th gen I am looking at
1994 Honda Accord
Heres the 4th gens
1992 Honda Accord LX
1992 Honda Accord
91 Honda Accord
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
I didn't open the links and read about them.
Only thing I "might" say about the 4th gens - the TCU for the auto trans is a bit "flaky". However, you can get a tcu from a bone yard for ~$50.....IMHO, poor connections to some of the trans solenoids causes high resistance on the circuit and the "caps" in the tcu blow....those with the skills replace the "caps" - most just get a new/used one from a bone yard....the trans is solid, just the computer is a bit weak.
Now if you are looking at manual trans (again I didn't look at the listings)......just as solid as the 5th gen.
EDIT: Just to be clear - I'd buy an auto 4th gen tomorrow if needed. I'm about to get my youngest a newer car and the 4th and 5th gens are in the running. He can drive a stick but there is a bit of history - not him, just a dad being worried - and I would rather have him in an auto trans just so I can sleep better. I'm ok if I'm with him in the stick but I can't be there all the time.
Only thing I "might" say about the 4th gens - the TCU for the auto trans is a bit "flaky". However, you can get a tcu from a bone yard for ~$50.....IMHO, poor connections to some of the trans solenoids causes high resistance on the circuit and the "caps" in the tcu blow....those with the skills replace the "caps" - most just get a new/used one from a bone yard....the trans is solid, just the computer is a bit weak.
Now if you are looking at manual trans (again I didn't look at the listings)......just as solid as the 5th gen.
EDIT: Just to be clear - I'd buy an auto 4th gen tomorrow if needed. I'm about to get my youngest a newer car and the 4th and 5th gens are in the running. He can drive a stick but there is a bit of history - not him, just a dad being worried - and I would rather have him in an auto trans just so I can sleep better. I'm ok if I'm with him in the stick but I can't be there all the time.
Last edited by poorman212; Sep 12, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
Welcome Georgeons.. :)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
From: Georgia
I found this one what do yall think? The guy will take 1500. I can fix the dents (ive takin auto body) 1992 Honda Accord EX Coupe Automatic New motor etc.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
If you are ok with a bit of body work,,,,,,looks like a good deal to me. Of course test drive it and check for any stored codes. Turn the key to "on" (key to on - be sure the D4 and CEL come on and go off, same with srs and abs if it has it...this is a bulb check to be sure the owner didn't remove one of them....yes people do that). Check the fluid levels (trans, oil and coolant).
Then start it up and let it run at idle. Make a bit of "chit/chat" with the owner for a few minutes.....you are letting the car warm up and going to "closed loop". Play with the AC, when on both rad fans should come on. Turn it off, again wanting the car to get to normal op temp.
Take it for a drive. See what you think. No CEL or D4 staying on when the car is in park....sounding good. After returning, re-check oil.
Of course there are places that will do a "buyers inspection" for a few $'s.
The rust in the rear wheel arch is pretty common and could be a pain to address. I'd bet the car spent some time up north where salt on the roads is pretty common.
At the end of the day......it is your decision......good luck.
Then start it up and let it run at idle. Make a bit of "chit/chat" with the owner for a few minutes.....you are letting the car warm up and going to "closed loop". Play with the AC, when on both rad fans should come on. Turn it off, again wanting the car to get to normal op temp.
Take it for a drive. See what you think. No CEL or D4 staying on when the car is in park....sounding good. After returning, re-check oil.
Of course there are places that will do a "buyers inspection" for a few $'s.
The rust in the rear wheel arch is pretty common and could be a pain to address. I'd bet the car spent some time up north where salt on the roads is pretty common.
At the end of the day......it is your decision......good luck.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
From: Georgia
If you are ok with a bit of body work,,,,,,looks like a good deal to me. Of course test drive it and check for any stored codes. Turn the key to "on" (key to on - be sure the D4 and CEL come on and go off, same with srs and abs if it has it...this is a bulb check to be sure the owner didn't remove one of them....yes people do that). Check the fluid levels (trans, oil and coolant).
Then start it up and let it run at idle. Make a bit of "chit/chat" with the owner for a few minutes.....you are letting the car warm up and going to "closed loop". Play with the AC, when on both rad fans should come on. Turn it off, again wanting the car to get to normal op temp.
Take it for a drive. See what you think. No CEL or D4 staying on when the car is in park....sounding good. After returning, re-check oil.
Of course there are places that will do a "buyers inspection" for a few $'s.
The rust in the rear wheel arch is pretty common and could be a pain to address. I'd bet the car spent some time up north where salt on the roads is pretty common.
At the end of the day......it is your decision......good luck.
Then start it up and let it run at idle. Make a bit of "chit/chat" with the owner for a few minutes.....you are letting the car warm up and going to "closed loop". Play with the AC, when on both rad fans should come on. Turn it off, again wanting the car to get to normal op temp.
Take it for a drive. See what you think. No CEL or D4 staying on when the car is in park....sounding good. After returning, re-check oil.
Of course there are places that will do a "buyers inspection" for a few $'s.
The rust in the rear wheel arch is pretty common and could be a pain to address. I'd bet the car spent some time up north where salt on the roads is pretty common.
At the end of the day......it is your decision......good luck.
Thanks man. I found another one I'm looking at thats alot better. It doesnt have any damage plus its a four door. And my wife and me are going to try to start s family soon so a four door is easier. And also its a 5 speed. Which I remember you said before that the 5 speeds were more reliable.
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