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New owner of 1994 Accord

  #1  
Old 11-07-2011, 12:07 AM
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Default New owner of 1994 Accord

... got it for $950 with around 98k on it. Did a clutch master cylinder, fighting wiper linkage bushings now, and getting ready to do timing belt kit and shake down the front end. It's in pretty decent shape for Minnesota. Looking forward to sharing my experiences and the experiences of you folks here.

-Lectrick
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 12:12 AM
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Hello new member..
HAF Welcomes you too the site...Thank You for joining.
 
  #3  
Old 11-10-2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Lectrick View Post
... got it for $950 with around 98k on it. Did a clutch master cylinder, fighting wiper linkage bushings now, and getting ready to do timing belt kit and shake down the front end. It's in pretty decent shape for Minnesota. Looking forward to sharing my experiences and the experiences of you folks here.

-Lectrick
Hi, I've just joined this forum and I have a 1994 Accord too. A coupe, two door.
I haven't used it for a year and I'm having problems. I put in a new battery but when I try to start it I get nothing. No lights, nada. When I start it with jump leads it starts fine and stays running with everything apparently working, I drive up and down the road and it's fine but when I switch it off...after ten minutes or so, it won't start. Nothing from the battery.
It's been lyingidel for a year and some suggested it might be the alternator brushes stuck but whatever it is, it's not charging the battery.
Any ideas?
 
  #4  
Old 11-11-2011, 02:18 PM
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First off, you'll get more responses if you post in the "General Tech Help" section First thing I'd do is get a 5 dollar multimeter (you can get them at any auto parts store or radio shack or whatever) and with the engine running, measure the voltage between the posts on the battery. It should read somewhere between 14 and 16 volts. If it does, your alternator is working. If it doesn't, try replacing it.

If your alternator is charging and your battery is still going dead (brand new battery?), then you might have a short or a drain somewhere. Take of the battery negative cable (with the car turned OFF) and measure voltage or use a test light between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. If you have voltage or your test light lights up, you have a power drain somewhere. Have someone hold the multimeter/test light on the battery (between the post and the cable) and start pulling fuses, one by one. If you find one fuse that makes the test light turn off/voltage drop to zero, then you've found out which circuit is draining.

Moderators - Can one of you move this to General Tech Help for him?
 
  #5  
Old 11-11-2011, 02:21 PM
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P.S.: Desso, I have to say that your symptoms actually suggest a bad battery or maybe a bad ground to me. Voltage on top of the battery should read a hair over 12 with the engine turned off. Is it possible the battery is bad? They will load test them for free at most auto parts stores if you pull it out, and many of them will also test your alternator for free.
 
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