it says a 12.73....yea mbo i think you might get banned from the strip if your running 10psi you might want to turn it down a little when you go there ...lol

 

yeah, i am curious to find out what you clock at, all i know is mbo, you suck cause your car weights 400 pounds less then mine lol

ummm i thought the point of going to the strip was to see how fast your car can go? ^_^

but yeah, based on your math calc for horse power, at 8 psi i would have just under 250hp at the crank..... which worries me cause an auto trany cant handle that in the end lol

 

What did you do to remove 400 lbs?? I've been looking for crap to take out myself, just really haven't found anything worth removing. Thought about the back seat and realized that it was a foam insert, so I said forget that and kept it.

I don't have a/c, but adding the turbo brought that weight back and more.

I'd be so happy with a 12.73 time.

 

hehe, i didnt do anything, i was going based on the weight lightshow went on, said that your year was suppose to be 2800ish pounds, my car weights over 3200. The only way to lose the weight fiberglass hood (those are awesome, weigh like... 25 pounds expensive tho), remove everything out of the trunk and the backseat ( about what 35 pounds there? maybe 50), if you want to go the insane route, you can do fiberglass doors which will drop your cars weight over 200 pounds (considering what your willing to lose from the doors and also very expensive) so yeah, save time.... get a viper, everythings already fiberglass lol

 

Oh yeah, I read your first post entirely wrong. haha my car weighs less. Yeah, I know i can do the whole body panel thing. I was thinking of remocing the heater core and the other A/C crap that's still in there (don't need it in florida!), but I don't know if it's worth the trouble.

 

well.... i think you might be able to even out the weight you gained from the turbo, plus a little more hp by the fact you wont have the a/c in the belt line ^_^ i think just the alternator on the underdrive pulley will get you about 8 hp ^_^ fun stuff

as it stands im still hunting for a turbo manifold, wastegate, bov, downpipe and piping.....

 

yeah, I already ripped out the compressor for the a/c. When I do my timing belt next, I'll put an underdrive pulley on there.

I checked ebay for an accord turbo downpipe everyday, and then one day it was there, but I let someone else get it since It went to like $300 bucks. But apparently the person didn't pay so I ended up getting it like a week later.

Your manifold will determine what you'll need to do with your downpipe, so get that first.

 

alright, I'm going to bid on some DSM's tonight. Here's my question. I have my eye on an OBX fuel rail. Is it any good for my turbo'd car or should I get the AEM one? Any input would be great. Also, while I'm at it, I'm going to type in the directions word for word of the boost controller and then you guys tell me if you think I've got it right. I know it's kinda hard without seeing the boost controller, but it simply has two ports.

1. Remove the hose from the wastegate actuator and cap-clamp the compressor end. If you have a second port on the wastegate actuator you will need to also cap-clamp that end.

2. Now connect a hose from the first port of the wastegate actuator to the side of the boost controller.

3. Locate the pressure line coming from the intake manifold and connect it to the the bottom of the boost controller.

4. If you have a blow-off valve you will need to add a t-fitting in the line.

5. Now tighten the **** clowise and set the boost. blah blah.

Ok, What I get out of it is that I need to feed the wastegate port to the controller and then to a line in the manifold. Right now it's feeding off the compressor port, so I guess I have to change that.

And I'm pretty sure that I need to leave the top port on the wastegate open. Sound right?

 

hey mbo its actually alot simpler than that. the controller just bleeds boost....thats it. those instructions are fo cars that already have a turbo on them from the factory. just snip that line that goes from the compressor to the wastegate and hook the controller in between there. when the screw is all the way turned in you will be running the stock boost...and usually every 1 turn counter clockwise results in 1psi mroe boost.

 

dude..my car was doin the same thing...check out this site..it acutally works..i thought i wasa bunch of spam but they payed for my car to be fixed


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