I know the motor wasn't pinging and I wasn't real hard on it. As I saw the mix go lean, I really backed off it. I just put in some new platinum 2's, so I hope I didn't kill them. I have the walbro 255 on order, but I heard it wasn't great for a FMU type setup. Should i order an inline one (like the MSD?). I plan to run 6-7 lbs untill I build the motor.

I also noticed that the BOV seems to stay partially open at idle. Do I need to mess with the screww on top?

Turbo sound and BOV sound were good and hope the fuel pump will cure my lean condition. I'm also throwing a CEL code, so i'll have to look into that (probably something to do with my missing link).

Thanks for all the help man!

 

yea bosch plugs will blow your coil so you should change those out anyway. sounds like your bov is working just fine. the CEL is probably because of the extreme lean condition. yea an inline pump like msd would also work great. i actually recommend using the walbro, i think it works great with honda setup which usually use a FMU, but everyone has their opinion. yea but only use ngk plugs. your car may actually run a lot better with some good plugs in it. those plugs youre using now are producing a very weak spark, which is not what is needed in a boosted environment.

 

My sister's fiance turned me onto the bosch plugs. I never really understood the point of them, but he swore by them. You say they blow out coils? I had an MSD Blaster coil that lasted maybe a 1/10 of a day before it went dead (using platinum 4's) . Hmm that explains things...

 

yea thats definately why that coil went toast. they will actually give you bad gas mileage and reduce hp too. bosch plugs in an audi or something german like that are great, but in a honda......ngk only.

 

I'm considering the Apexi Super AFC 2. Any thoughts on this? I was also wondering what my stock MAP sensor can handle.

I got the NGK's. I'll be tweaking my car today, so I'll have an update later. Hopefully all goes well.

 

yea the super afc is a good unit, but is not needed. the map sensor is not actually reading any boost because of the synapse. but, if you try to run more than 7 to 8 psi you will probably break your motor (on the stock timing) .........save your money cause once you get it dialed in, i have some tips for you to safely turn up your boost and crank up the hp to about 250-270 at the crank. (if running 7 psi right now you should be around 200)

 

Hahahaha. My accord lives. The lean condition I spoke of happens as the turbo approaches 1 psi or so. Then it goes rich like it should. I'm not sure about this, but it's kind of annoying (I still have to put in the new fuel pump). Any way...

Turbo spools nicley. BOV sounds great. Aside from this minor fuel issue things look good. I thought I bought a wastegate with a 6lb spring, but my gauge has read closer to 8 (once almost to 10). I'm wondering what's up with this. Should I use the little outlet on the compressor housing to give the wastegate what it needs?

I can't wait to hear the tips. Man, this has been an awesome project and I know it's just the begining. Thanks for the help so far, lightshow!

 

yes absolutely.....the outlet on the compressor side of the turbo needs to be hooked up to the wastegate for it to operate. it doesnt sound like the wastegate is working right now. i bet those new plugs made a difference. the first thing youll need to turn up the boost is a manual boost controller. i like the real simple design of the ball and spring type heres a real cheap one.

boost controller

then i would recommend a cam shaft with a turbo profile on it. gude and AEBS both make a great product for around 2-3 hundred bucks. it will make more power at whatever boost level your running. also, it would be a good idea to get a front mount intercooler if you dont have one. doesnt need to be real big maybe 12 by 24. now to run more boost you have to change the ignition timing in relation to the amount of boost that you are running. it a real simple ignition system change and should cost around 3-4 hundred. you want to retard the timing per each pound of boost that you run. we can talk more about that later.

you just dont want to have any detonation. your motor was designed to handle about 300 hp, and it should very safely handle 250 without changing out the rods or closing the deck. you have to get the wastegate to work though because boost creep and surge is no good.

 

Well, thinking ahead, I installed an MSD boost master timing unit before the install. I'm the last person to want detonation in my motor. Currently, it is set to kick in at about 2 psi. I didn't realize that my stock internals could handle about 300 hp, but I guess that makes sense as long as detonation isn't present. I also have a front mount intercooler. I'll look for a good turbo cam and that boost controller. I'll also switch out the line that feeds my wastegate.

Any idea about the deadspot in my fuel system? It seems to lose fuel briefly around 1 psi or so, and then like magic it's back. It's kind of annoying since as the boost kicks in, the car looses power and then regains it.

 

Even though he says it can handle 300 hp stock....... dont ever take it that high..... If you change the rods pistons and rings by all means then do it, but the pressure you would be putting on the stock rings at 300hp would destroy them, just run 7 or 8 psi until you decide to rebuild the engine. Side note, if you have an auto trans. it wont handle 300hp. and at about 225hp if not lower, you need a transmission cooler.