I prefer using 6-point sockets and wrenches due to being able to apply more torque if necessary to loosen with less chance of rounding off the bolt head or nut.

 

Ratchet-type can be used at positions & angles where it's difficult to see the scale.

Bending-beam is cheaper and the operation is very basic. Principle of operation (bending of a circular beam) is very fundamental & repeatable.

You're the one who said tight budget... the ratchet-type are a bunch more expensive, and beam-type are just fine for home DIY mechanics.

 

Don't ever use a tq wrench to loosen things! They are made for torquing only! I personally have the click type tq wrench from tirerack and don't know if it's accurate or not(need a better one with a longer tq range). Honestly every tool/socket has it's job so it's hard to say.

 

^ I agree with both above. In fact I don't think I even own anything that is 12 pt, if I do it is way down at the bottom of the tool box or in the other tool box that has the stuff I never or hardly use.

I use the 1/4 10mm, 12mm the most. For most everything I do that is the bread and butter......

Beyond that I do have a few things I've bought over the years that pretty much have one purpose (as stated by Vipers4Life), that purpose is to make it easier. I could do "the job" without it. As an example, having that 14mm/6pt swivel socket (not a swivel AND socket but made all in one) makes getting that bolt off a snap...that being things like the top/backside bolt on the compressor of a 3rd gen or one of the flange bolts on the bottom of the exh manifold of the 5th gen....my kids use to ask "why do you have that" and I would tell them that is for doing X, now that they are older and I make them work on their cars...they don't think I'm as crazy as they once thought. I let them struggle with something, then pull out "that tool" and say "try this". Heck I've got a phillips screw driver that has a 12~14 inch shaft, just for changing the front turn signal bulbs on the 5th gen. First time I spent an hour trying to "get there"-finally did, bought the screwdriver after that, two years later I finally used it and it took 5 min's...haven't used it since.

My long winded point being, if you have a good set of 1/4, 3/8 sockets ,extensions and wrenches you should be good for most repairs. I know you are on some sort of budget, we all are-at least I am. Put a bit of that money away for buying what you need when it comes along...heck you may never need to change the oil pressure switch so why buy that socket??

 

Dang, it just came to me....THE most important thing. A quality Jack and Jack Stands....

 

I have both types of torque wrenches, and find that both are useful at times. The beam torque wrench is accurate for small diameter bolts, but a bit awkward. The click/release ratchet torque wrench is good up to 150 ft-lbs which covers most larger bolts.

Regarding tools, I have several that yield pleasure when they solve a problem.

1) wobbly sockets - When you need a bit of flexibility and misalignment w/ power to break a bolt or nut, these work wonders. I couldn't live w/o them.

2) Magnetic screwdriver w/ interchangeable screwdriver inserts. Holding the screw w/ magnetism provides a valuable third hand at times.

3) Ratchet driver w/ flexible extension. This allows access to screws and bolts that are impossible otherwise. Another tool I couldn't live w/o.

4) OBD2 scanner - Impossible to properly diagnose any modern car w/o them. The added features of scanning and graphing can be very useful.

regards

 

Ima gonna get some of the wobblys, I can see where they would come in VERY Handy...

 

Hah do you mean swivel sockets by any chance? Also I would like to add that a cordless impact gun is very very handy! The first day at the shop I work at I was using a regular ratchet to take out the bolts on a splash guard, and my mechanic came over and took the ratchet from me and said here (handed me his Dewalt cordless 3/8 impact gun) and said "for easy stuff like this we make our jobs easier lol. After that I bought an Ignersoll Rand 3/8 cordless impact and love it to death!

 

Most of my tools are like yours + They have all been Chromed Also..

 

Cylinder head bolts, which are very tight, are 12-pt bolt heads requiring a 12-pt socket. I thought this was because there were more points to share the torque load and reduce the risk of round-off.

For a 12-pt socket on a 6-pt bolt, I think you're correct. The reduced interference can allow the bolt shoulder to be sheared. However, unless the bolt is very tight, this is not a big issue.

regards