POST YOUR Mileage
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RE: POST YOUR MILLEAGE
mom's cm6 accord has 51.000 miles and counting (she drive's 100 miles a day) and the only thing thats been done is the oil change (she got the car a few mouths ago) my teg has 137.000 miles on it. ive done t-belt,h20 pump,drive belts,cap,rotor,plugs,wires,fuel filter. runs like new
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 210
RE: POST YOUR MILLEAGE
91 CB7 manual, just pased 250,000kms (155,325m). Engine is the f22A9 (those with f22A6 engines, feel free to be jealous, those with various vtec donks can just keep quiet!), and I have no reason to doubt it's till making close to the 148hp it's supposed to. Car performs very nicely and I don't treat it with kid gloves, but do maintain it well. I've had this car from 206,000km.
Have replaced the ingnition 'igniter' (ignition control module?) twice in fairly quick succession, learnt after the first one died (second one for the car, car now on third from new) that old leads with high resistance is probably what killed the first one in the first place, so new leads as well. Car uses a very slight amount of oil (almost nothing), easily attributed to slight oil leak at front main seal (doesn't contaminate the belts so not intending to fix unless it gets worse).
Replaced ignition switch about a year ago. Replaced both rack ends a while ago. Dampers were soggy when I bought the car, new Koni Yellows all round. That's about it for necessary repairs, all else I've done is optional, i.e. home made front / rear strut bars, home made 'X' style brace in the aperture behind the rear seat backrest, home made CAI breathing through stock filter box, modification to IACV to improve rpm drop asI shift gear, substantial caster increase, front camber increase (1.5°), poly rear ARB bushes and stiffening of the rearARB mounting brackets at both rear subframe and suspension arms (too soft and floppy from factory!), will be fitting stiffer ARB when incoming / outgoing ratio improves.
Car had very good service history with no record of much else being done other than usual maintenance (previous owner recorded everything, including new tyres fitted etc), so even the clutch is probably the original unit!
Have replaced the ingnition 'igniter' (ignition control module?) twice in fairly quick succession, learnt after the first one died (second one for the car, car now on third from new) that old leads with high resistance is probably what killed the first one in the first place, so new leads as well. Car uses a very slight amount of oil (almost nothing), easily attributed to slight oil leak at front main seal (doesn't contaminate the belts so not intending to fix unless it gets worse).
Replaced ignition switch about a year ago. Replaced both rack ends a while ago. Dampers were soggy when I bought the car, new Koni Yellows all round. That's about it for necessary repairs, all else I've done is optional, i.e. home made front / rear strut bars, home made 'X' style brace in the aperture behind the rear seat backrest, home made CAI breathing through stock filter box, modification to IACV to improve rpm drop asI shift gear, substantial caster increase, front camber increase (1.5°), poly rear ARB bushes and stiffening of the rearARB mounting brackets at both rear subframe and suspension arms (too soft and floppy from factory!), will be fitting stiffer ARB when incoming / outgoing ratio improves.
Car had very good service history with no record of much else being done other than usual maintenance (previous owner recorded everything, including new tyres fitted etc), so even the clutch is probably the original unit!