This is a long post, so my main question is while towing, should I manually choose gears for my auto v6 or just drive like normal?

For those who haven't seen my previous posts, I'm planning a trip to Florida.

I've been towing a trailer w/ bike by car for a few yrs. I'm comfortable with it, but I recognize the risks of failure, etc. For a while I would tow 300 miles every other weekend. But now I'm about to embark on a 3000 mi. roundtrip adventure to Florida from Pennsylvania and back.

My towing method goes like this: I use a Canyon Dancer Bar Harness w/ a ratchet strap to the trailer on each side. In the rear I use a ratchet strap from each passenger peg bracket to the trailer. I always keep the bike sitting straight up supported only by the straps (and bar harness) w/ the kickstand retracted. The bike is kept in first gear, and the front wheel is in a wheel chock that's mounted to the trailer. Anyone ever tow by strapping the bike down w/ the kickstand or centerstand down? I've thought about that, but I don't know how much stress those component can take.
But now that I'm preparing to tow a new bike w/ a new trailer by a new car, I've been thinking if I could be doing anything different/better, so any advice concerning my current towing package, driving tips, etc are all appreciated. I'm excited and nervous...
Two specific questions I have are:
W/ an automatic transmission, should I drive like normal, or should I be doing a lot of manual shifing?
When I put the bike on the trailer and strap it down, it obviously compresses the suspension. How long can I leave it like this? Obviously I'll try to keep it compressed for as little time as I can, but it's getting ready to snow, so I put the bike on the trailer now (not leaving for two weeks, and didn't want to load it if there's inches of snow on the ground). Right now the bike is on the trailer, leaning on the kickstand for now, but still strapped tight enough to keep it from falling over.
Here's the package I used to tow:


Here's what I'll be towing now:

The Trailer: It has a galvanized welded frame and is slightly larger w/ a longer toungue. The old trailer was small and had a bolt up frame (I built it from a kit). The trailer I'll be using (pictured below) now has a pressure treated plywood deck painted black, wheel chock and toolbox (for storing straps, etc) bolted to the tongue. I also replaced all the wiring, and installed new lights. Oh, I also painted the trailer fenders w/ the same flat black paint I used on the deck. I just had the wheel bearings packed, and the suspension was inspected by a local shop. I drilled two holes in the deck where I insert two bolts w/ butterfly nuts used to attach the 4 foot steel folding ramp during transport.

The Car: 2002 Honda Accord EX V6. 117k mi. Nice car; I got it over the summer. I traided my TL1000R and the old Kawasaki Mojave (pictured above) for it. I traded the MR2 Spyder (pictured above, but you knew that, right?) for the 2003 Honda VFR (Yep, you guessed it; pictured below). Anyway>>>>> I just had $2000 worth of work done to the car. I had the tow hitch installed, along w/ wiring harness. Four brand new tires on a set of five spoke 17" wheels (16's pictured below now for sale-$200 plus shipping), coolant flush, oil change, tranny flush, new brakes, new plugs and new timing belt/water pump.

The Bike: My 2003 Honda VFR. As I said, I traded my Spyder for this baby. I made the trade this past summer and I have no regrets. The bike was perfectly stock and only had 211 miles on it (currently has 3400 mi.). The Spyder's realistic book/selling value was approx. $6000, so a straight up trade seemed like a good deal to me. I had been shopping for a VFR for three months before finally getting a deal like this. I've since removed the passenger pegs and grabhandles and added the seat cowl that just arrived the other day (Thanks Daniel Paul! Buy stuff from him and you'll get it two days later...) That piece really cleans up the rear beautifully, and I've been lusting for one bit didn't want to buy one new. I wired in a cigarette lighter adapter w/ an extention cord so I can use up to three devices within ten feet of the bike (cell phone/Ipod/GPS, etc). Other than that the bike is basically stock. When I get to Florida, I'll unload it, start it up, put on my gear and ride it to the beach.

All the vehicles are 100% ready to go. I'm even 80% packed. I packed most of the clothes I'll wear, all my motorcycle gear is packed into my Oxford soft luggage (tank/tail/paniers) and I've got a toolbox and spare tire already in the car.
So, like I said above, any and all tips and advice are continually appreciated as I get ready to embark on this solo roadtrip adventure.
Stay Tuned!

 

By the way, I also added larger wheels to the trailer. Those little 8" jobbies were not gonna cut it...

 

Goo didea bigger wheels are better. You sound all ready to go. Good luck on your trip. Your should be fine since most of the driving should be Highway keep that baby in the last gear when towing. And since its auto you should use the D1,D2,D3,D4 thing. I would say shift around 3kRPM then shift gears. But since i suspect most of the drving lik i said is highway you should have trouble at all. And by the way Very nice Bike!
Also wrap that cycle down very good. But wind should be a big factor since your car will be i front taking the beating. Anyway Good luck man. Have fun. Write back and give us details on your trip when you get there.

 

Good luck to you !---maybe get AAA if u dont already have it

 

never put the kick stand down.ive just done two from bars each side than one through back whell.but sounds like your ready. shouldnt have any probs. from the sounds of it. and you said it was a v6. you have more than enough power.just keep it out of overdrive while in the city.be safe and good luck man. post pic of the trip.

 

My suggestions are:
1. DO NOT tow in overdrive
2. Let it shift itself on flat terrain, you shift in hilly terrain, both uphill & downhill.
3. Make sure brake fluid, trans fluid, and oilare new or damn near.
4. Make sure there is enough tongue weight to prevent swaying. at least 10% of total trailer/bike weight.
5. Use safety chains without fail.
6. Increase rear tire pressure by 2-3 psi.