wow man, thats looks great. hopefully you wont hav to use it.

 

Hmmm, instant two seater!

If you want more chassis stiffness, have a look at the aperture between the trunk and passenger spaces. That big hole might be good for carrying long cargo, but it does nothing at all for chassis integrity. Ive made / fitted an 'X' style brace that triangulates that area, and lives directly behind the back of the rear seat (i.e. not the kind that takes up half the trunk space). Along with a good rigid rear tower brace (which I'd also recommend highly), the X brace makes quite a noticeable difference to handling responsiveness.

 

yeah i have a rear strut bar and now have a c-pillar bar, but drag is more of my thing anyways.........may start auto-x i havent decided yet

 

What the hell is wrong with the apostrophes on this site? I don't want quotation marks, but that's what I'm getting when I use an apostrophe, ', like that...?

 

yeah its been messed up for a while

 

how much weight did you loose when u gutted out the back? how much weight do you need to loose for a noticable difference?

 

well my car currently weighs in at 2900lbs with the roll bar, 18s, h22 and some gas. the car is rated for 2860 curb weight stock meaning no gas or anything. and i removed the rear, AC and cruise control.

i once drove it with no carpet center console or passenger seat and it seemed noticeably faster.

they say for ever 100lbs you drop its a tenth of a second in the quarter

 

do you know what the curb weight of a 4 door accord is?
and how much weight could I know off on it?

 

the weights are the same so 2860. idk if you drop AC you can save quite a bit as the condesor compressior and such are all pretty heavy. i mean the interior panels dont add up to that much

 

is talking about gutting the whole interior in the back seat area.