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vibration on acceleration

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  #21  
Old 11-17-2011, 07:40 PM
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Hum! I've got the problem as of this week, and i promise I'll come back and post. Reading this and the other thread makes me suspect motor or trans mount now - there is a "clunk" on disengaging the clutch.

Which mount is most suspect?

Forrest
 
  #22  
Old 11-19-2011, 08:53 AM
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Took the car to get it aligned; they pointed out that first I needed to get the passenger inner tie rod ball joint replaced - the boot was torn and the joint had a decent amount of play. They wanted too much to fix just that joint; I ordered the parts to replace all four joints and both boots for less, but won't be able to get it all installed until next week at the earliest.

Further, I've just checked the motor mounts visually; they LOOK fine per what the manual says. Then, I put the parking brake on and the hood up; looking under the slot at the base of the hood from the driver's seat and started the engine.

Slipping the clutch in forward or reverse, even pretty abruptly, I couldn't get the engine to move or jerk relative to the body.

I didn't jack up the engine a bit to wiggle the mounts as instructed - anyone a big proponent of that?

The reason I started to suspect motor mounts is that as I shift through the gears, there's a definite "klunk" as I disengage and re-engage the clutch.
 
  #23  
Old 07-01-2012, 09:53 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Model : Accord LX COUPE 4 CYL

At first i thought that the tires were out of balance. Got them balanced - problem remains.

Second I found that there was looseness in one of the tie end rods, got both replaced. Problem remains. I will have to get the wheels alligned to see if the problem persist.

What are the odds that the actual cv axle is bad..... how do you diagnose that ....
 
  #24  
Old 07-02-2012, 06:33 AM
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Both front and rear mounts are prone to wear out and fail.

Inspection with car in D or R and punching throttle will ID a worn/broken mount.

R discloses the rear mount by lifting. You will see a large displacement.

You may be able to detect a wobbling CV axle by elevating front wheels and running in D to 20-30 mph. Make sure car is carefully supported and e-brake set firmly. Look for wobbling CV axles and vibration to confirm.

good luck
 
  #25  
Old 01-09-2013, 08:44 AM
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Vehicle: 2003 Honda Accord EX 4-door Manual 4-cyl; 192,000 miles

I was having same issues as described in earlier posts. Vibrations at speeds over 45 mph when accelerating. First tried new tires (needed them anyways), but didn't change a thing. Took to a mechanic and he first replaced the right front drive axle. Again, didn't do anything. Replaced the front left drive axle and vibration is now gone.

Thought posting a solution would be useful for future readers
 
  #26  
Old 01-09-2013, 11:26 AM
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Sometimes noise & vibration travels around the interior of a car in funny ways, so it might sound like right-front when it's really left-front.
 
  #27  
Old 06-04-2013, 10:39 AM
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Hi guys loooooong time lurker on these forums. I had to join really quick and post the fix that worked for me.

I ended up going to 2 different shops before the fix. The symptoms were like everyone is having. A definite wobble under acceleration from about 35-40mph on up. Once I ease up on the gas the wobble goes way and everything smooths out. The first shop guaranteed it was worn control arm bushings as they had a little wear. They checked the motor mounts and CV joints everything looked good. Also there was no CV joint clicking or anything like that either. Longer story shorter... $200 bucks (discount because they were wrong and couldn't figure it out.) later the control arms were not the problem. They gave me a run around so I went to another shop.

Good ole Southern Motor Works in Duluth GA, Jimmi (good guy). Immediately drove it, then lifted it and saw a slight vibration on the left CV axle while doing 35-40 on the speedo. They replaced the left CV Axle and walla!! The horrible wobble is gone, back to smooth acceleration again. He said it could have been bent from hitting a pot hole or curb just right, or from some bad tire hop on acceleration. That's all I've got guys, have a good one.
 
  #28  
Old 06-04-2013, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for posting. What year/trim Accord?

good luck
 
  #29  
Old 06-06-2013, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
Thanks for posting. What year/trim Accord?

good luck
2005 lx 2.4 sedan
 
  #30  
Old 08-29-2013, 12:48 PM
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Default The fix to this issue

So I had the same issues as described in my 2004 Accord, 4cyl ex, had vibration at both 40 & 60 mph only on acceleration. What I did to FIX the issue was first, replace both half shaft/axels. Many talk about doing just the left side, do both there cheap $80 Pass $70 Driver, just make sure they are new and not rebuilt, you don't need to get them from honda just your local parts store. They are also pretty easy to install. There was no visible wear on either shaft, but they were one of the causes of the vibration. At first I only replaced the left and still had the vibration so that is why I did both. Next, I replaced three of four motor mounts. The two side mounts were trashed and the front was boarder line. Honda is very proud of these mounts, they wanted $457 for just the front & back not including the two side mounts. So I bought 4 after market mounts, two from O'Reilly's which were the two side mounts, and the front and back were from Amazon, the DEA brand. I will caution you, if you read the threads there is some mention of the (DEA)mounts not being the same height. I did not have that specific experience with them, but when I installed the back it gave me fits just to get it threaded on. Then once I had it bolted down it created another vibration that was bad on idle and worse when the A/C was on. So I used the old rear mount as it seemed to be ok, when placed back in position there were no more vibrations at idle or with the a/c on. I had no issues with either of the side mounts or front mount. If I was going to replace the rear mount, I would get the OEM from Honda, though be prepared to pay up and call around to local honda shops in your area for the best price.
Replacing the mounts on the 4cyl is not hard either, though it does help to have a 1/2in drive and get yourself and swivle socket and long extension to help make some of the tough angles. You should not have to remove any hoses on the 4cyl though I did have to remove the battery and housing to get to one of the side mounts as well as pull the break fluid reservoir off its clip. You are also going to need a jack, jack stands and a 2x4 to take the pressure off the mounts. I also suggest putting a little light grease on the bolts when putting them back as it makes them go in a bit easier.
Making the above repairs solved all the vibration issues, good luck and I hope this helps!
 

Last edited by punkymanification; 08-29-2013 at 12:55 PM.


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