Wet Paint - Page 3

quote:

ORIGINAL: joninja

i thought it would hold up a little better after hearing all the comments, it does work great thogh, except on my windshield i have streaks , maybe i need to use more . i spray on, i wipe it in, and then i wipe it off. some ththing with the windshield. anyone else have a problem like this

 
Never.
 Either you are using too much or not wiping it down thoroughly, When in doubt get a clean terrycloth towel to wipe it down with.

Hi Rick:
I have never had any problems with Wet Paint either, still is the easiest product Ive used in years
 
WheelBrokerAng

yes i use terry cloth towels, which spread lint all over, very annoying. i have washed them before use and still the same problem. i rub it in for quite a while to get rid of the streaks, but still persists. i will use a smaller amount next time.
 
 
 
 

i used wet paint sunday on my car, and today it rained. its got rain spots all over, i thought wet paint would resist those i mean it was the very next day. . i even tried to rub it out with a clean tery cloth towel and the spots will not just go away. i wash the car every week with wet paint i thought it would be bulletproof?      also i tried using the clay bar and IMO it sucks ass it just spreads orange water around and it leaves a sticky haze on the car.

If the rain is full of contaminants nothing will keep it from spotting.  I've been caught in showers and the car almost cleaned itself. The next time it was a spotted up mess.
 
When used correctly claying the car leaves the finish as smooth as a baby's arse, never any residue. I suggest that you are not doing it correctly. What were you using as a lubricant??

i bought the clay bar in a box[ kit with the showtime car detailer, it almost seemed like sticky water. what wouldm  you suggest i use? thenext time i wash the car i would like to wet paint the car, then use the clay bar to remove all those little bumps

It's wash, clay, wash, then WP. The clay will remove whatever is on the paint. You can use soapy water for clay lube.

Bought it, and applied it twice.
It was good, not great, but good.

The shine was OK, didnt really blow me away. What surprised me was how slippery it was.

However, the car seemed to get MORE dirty with wet paint than before wet paint. However, the dirt is more like dust in the fact that i can literally be brushed off, since the coat is so slippery. So all in all, i would rather have to rinse my car every week than wash it every month.

Im still confused on how to buff it, I have a buffer but have never used it before.

So i Spray the wet paint on, then take the buffer and just keep buffing it till theres no residue left? Or do I rub the wet paint in first then use the buffer?

Also, when I dont use a buffer, do I want to keep rubbing with the first towel till theres no reside left, then rub the second towel all over, or do I use the first towel while the residue is there then wipe off the residue with the second towel?

What kind of buffer are you using? The directions for hand application/removal are right on their website. Go to the bottom of the first page and view the video.

an orbital one. A pretty cheap one. I think its a Bosch and runs at bout 2800 RPM w/ no load (A little fast, I know)

the website lists all these metals that wet paint can be used on, but it doesnt say stainless-steel.
anyone here try it on stainless-steel?
i need to polish my muffler, and possibilly the entire piping

I don't know how good a job it would do but try a spot to see.  I would use a polish specific to metal in this case.

any one have pics of what it looks like on satin silver.?

Rick:  Wet Paint or Opti Seal?  I've never used either, but have both marked down to try.  The Opti Seal is from your "Time to strip it down" thread.  I plan to show the tc in another year or so ..... after some mods.  Right now it's begging for Claybar and I need to figure out what to put on after that.

Opti Seal is only used after a perfectly prepared surface has been accomplished by machine polishing for hours. It has zero correction ability and simply "locks in" what is beneath it.  Unless you're planning on that kind of prep to the surface forget about it.
 
I would clay & go with WP until you are ready to get a buffer/polisher.
 
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: RTexasF

DuraGloss 105 to the rescue so I can start over for the new year. Tomorrow I'll seal it with two coats of Opti Seal. Wipe it on and walk away, no wipedown.

Nice flake pop!

You make it sound so simple ..... but thanks for the answer!!!

Let's put it this way......if you are satisfied with the way your paint looks now (when clean) then go for the Opti Seal. It is expensive and has a learning curve but it's not a steep one. Just remember that any swirls or marks will show the same as before.

So clay, wet paint for 2 coats every 2 months and next year I do the Optiseal?

You can use the Optiseal anytime you want to. 

I mean that I'll use it after a year of Wet Paint so the finish is where I want it since you said that it will lock in any imperfections ...... also, I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit to get the paint fixed where the previous owner touched it up.  I might just get a ground effects kit because both bumpers have paint damage and the front has a license plate hole.  I'm not sure yet, but the car needs clay.  I'm slowly getting this car up to my maintenance specs ..... I sense a large order of Royal Purple products in my future ..... RP Oil, tranny fluid and Purple Ice.  ..... I'll probably flush the rad and go with Peak yellow lifetime coolant again.

.....  MMO, flush, Seafoam ...... ditching the first of 2 catalytic converters.

HOLY Smokes batman!.. wow.. I just did my second coat of WP today.. took me about a hour yesterday and probably 30 minutes today with the second coat.. I have to say, after I did it I parked it outfront and my neighbor came over who has a vette and asked me who detailed my car. I told him of WetPaint which he hadn't heard of and let him borrow my bottle he is going to do it up tomorrow. I have to say after sitting in my driveway all day and getting a ton of pollen on it, all it took was a good drive at 60mph and got back home.. wallah, no pollen :) and it really looks like wetpaint.. Which I have had similar results with meguirs, however, with meguirs it never lasted too long and was no where near this slick.. I have always sworn by meguirs products.. this may have me switching completely

Hey everybody! Been reading about the WP and was wondering, has anyone compared it to the Duragloss stuff? Reason I ask is in my 54 years on this planet I've not found anything to make me change......yet. Really been pleased with the pre-polish, polish and Aquawax treatment on my Tundra and Mommy's Pilot.

Two different animals entirely. Wet Paint is an "all in one" product in that it cleans, shines, and seals in one shot. It is ideal for the person that wants their car to look great with minimal fuss. The look it gives is outstanding and does make people stop and take notice as Daver mentioned.

Duragloss has a number of products for different purposes and they work very well. My only gripe is the way they label things. For instance #501 is labeled as a polish for RV's & boats. It is actually a chemical cleaner, the strongest one they make. #105 is labeled a polish (they love this word!) but it is a lesser chemical cleaner that is also a sealant. Aquawax contains no wax, it is a spray sealant. See what I mean? Once you learn what a particular product actually is and how to use it they are hard to beat for the money. If you are content with Duragloss (and should be) then I see no reason to change.
 
I have and use both brands depending on what the job is at hand as well as what the customer wants and their budget.

got my wetpaint the other day, gonna put it on tomorrow. is there that much of a diff with a 2 coat?

Not a drastic difference. The main idea behind the second coat is to assure full coverage. You will use less on the second application and it will take less time. Post a picture!