Checked small light and interior light fuses (as reading through other forum posts) - no shorts that I know of, no blown fuses that I can see, have NOT installed / changed / messed with any cd player etc. recently...

Any thoughts on how to fix? I have read about dimmer control being part of the problem possibly, and cigarette accessory... also mention of fuse #32 - which fuse is this? I don't see anything labeled 32 on my actual car fuse diagrams on either inside or engine compartment fuse boxes.

THANKS,

 

The service manual shows different fuse numbers than the owner's manual. The No. 32 fuse (15 amp), small light fuse is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box. The same fuse is listed as the No. 15 fuse (15 amp) in the owner's manual.

 

Hopefully somebody that was a part of this original thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...m-46919/page7/ ... can elaborate a bit... as I have what sounds to be an identical problem on a 97 Accord EX. No running lights, back tail lights, or dash lights.

My fuses are NOT blown that I know of. After reading through this thread I thought I would give replaced the entire dimmer switch a shot as I could get one from a pick-n-pull about 5 miles away from me for $5. That did nothing.

So, IF I understand correctly, what fixed the problem was simply REPLACING the red/black wire from the back of the small wiring harness that plugs into the dimmer switch (this is the dimmer switch in the dash with the small **** NOT the headlights "dimmer control" coming out of the steering column correct?) to the blue #20 spot on the blue light switch control (shown in NYPito's photo)...

YES?

Thanks!

 

1. Check/re-check the number 32 fuse (15A) in the under-hood fuse box. If the fuse is blown, then there is probably a short in the circuit. If the fuse is okay, then it may be an open in the circuit; an open is an interruption in the flow of current in the circuit.

2. Do you have a voltmeter? Check that there is power on both sides of the No. 32 fuse.

Power from the No. 32 fuse goes through a Red/Grn wire to connect to a 20-P Blue connector (C413) and the Combination Light Switch, and then to a Red/Blk wire that has various splices along the harness to provide power to the dash lights, taillights, and other small lights.

The 20-P connector (C413) is located above the left kick panel.

Your 97 Accord connector and circuits is somewhat similar; but, different at the same time when compared to the 91 Accord in the other thread you were referencing to. For the 91 Accord, that 20-P Blue Connector should be C423. On your 97 Accord, it should be C413 and it has more harness connectors right next to it.

3. Check for power coming from the Red/Blk wire at the 20-P Blue Connector. There may be an open in the Red/Blk wire anywhere along the circuit. Looking at the circuit diagrams, running a new wire from the dash light brightness controller to the 20-P connector (C413) may not resolve your problem. It may be an open at various splice points along the red/wire, as the red/wire branches off to provide power to many components.

 

Ok - I am going to check this ASAP and get back here. Thank you,

 

First pic. shows number 32 fuse (15A) in your under-hood fuse/relay box.

Second pic. is where the 20-pin blue connector (C413) is for your 1997 Accord.

 

Redbull - thank you for the follow up. I wish I would have seen this earlier as it would have saved me some time!

So, using a voltmeter and visually inspecting it - I checked the #32 fuse. It is still in tact. BUT to clarify when you say to check POWER on the fuse are you meaning continuity? (Sorry I am pretty much totally new at checking the electronics on the car.) I have also visually inspected all other fuses and believe they are all intact.



So the above pic the left yellow arrow is the three prong harness that connects to the dash dimmer switch. The right one is (I believe) the same c413 20 pin blue connector in your pic. All three wires going into the 3 pin harness that plugs into the dimmer switch have continuity.

Those three wires go way up into the dash (difficult to follow) but do NOT seem to go to the c413 connector. Instead they all seem to travel down to another blue 20 pin connector that plugs into the same unit that the interior fuse box is connected to (see picture below)



JUST to make sure - this is NOT the correct blue 20pin connector in question right?

I should still be looking to the c413 connector in the first image?

So, I did check this connector out today (difficult to get to...) using DCV20 - and I could NOT get any reading when trying to connect to the black / red wire coming out the right side of the connector in the image. I could NOT reach around the upper left side of the connector to try and read the green / red wire. So I unplugged the two sides of the connector to try and read the small metal tab that the green / red wire is plugged into. I still got NO movement on the voltmeter. Then I played around and tried to get ANY reading on some of the other tabs and I did get approx 6 volts coming out of some of the others NEAR the green / red wire (I think blue and or / blue green).

Sorry I am really thinking out loud as I type so-to-speak so if I do NOT get any reading from the green / red wire then I would assume this is why I cannot get a reading from the red / black coming out the other end? But it does not seem these are directly connected within the c413 connector? It seems the green / red and green / red are in-line and coming out both the same ends on the connector?

Is it possible to simple take the black / red wire from the 3pin connector that plugs directly into the dimmer switch splice that and add a connection between that and one of the other wires going to the c413 line that is carrying voltage? Is approx. 6 volts enough to power all those lights or do I need to find one that is carrying more? 12?

To finish my BOOK of a post, and again THANK YOU for helping with this, while I was also digging into this I started to wonder if the items in the below pic are possibly messing the whole thing up? I bought this car used, and these items are / were all tucked up into the dash. Is this an old alarm? I have never used an alarm on this car...



Thank you again!

 

The Red/Blk wire at C413 splices off to provide power to several lighting circuits. A wire harness runs from C413 to C403 (a 16-P Blue connector) connected to the back of the interior fuse box. Power supposed to then run through the fuse box to C502 (a 12-P Blue connector at the back of the fuse box) and to C602 (18-P Blue connector at the front of the fuse box).


The C602 connector (18-P Blue) if receiving power through the Red/Blk wire via C403 and fuse box, will splice off to provide power to the connectors C609 and C610. C609 plugs into the Gauge Assembly and powers the gauge assembly 8 lights, A/T gear position indicator and dimming circuit. C610 splices off to power the cruise control main switch, moonroof switch, rear window defogger switch, heater control panel, dash brightness controller, and glove box light.


The C502 connector if receiving power through the Red/Blk wire via C403 and fuse box, will run to a rear connector C508 and branch off to power various lights in the rear (license lights, rear marker lights, taillights, and brake lights).

If you have power running from the Red/Blk wire coming out of the C413, then the problem may lie somewhere between the wire harness that goes from C413 to C403 (back of interior fuse box) or is a problem with the fuse box.


That looks like an aftermarket alarm system.

 

For checking the fuse, I just wanted you to check that power is flowing through the No. 32 fuse.

 

Thank you for the effort again. I'll go back and continue to check around the C413 20p connector - black / red specifically. SO - because it seems they are convoluted and sending power to all different places, COULD I then just reroute power to the black / red connector coming out of the C413 by splicing IT to another wire that IS carrying power?

OR - would that be totally messing the entire system up?