1991 dx with dash lights and parking light problem
#61
04-26-2012, 03:34 PM
http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...4-26122310.jpg
I did it...with the help of Crispin and PoorMan....
I ran a wire from the light switch control # 20 pin of the blue switch ( red/ black stripe) to the red/ black stripe of the dimmer switch.... that gave me power to the front corner lights + dash lights + more important the tail lights. Hooray. I post a pic of the 20 pin connector. Hope OUR struggle help people in the future......now can any one help me with the no power to the switch control **** that controls the blower?????????
I did it...with the help of Crispin and PoorMan....
I ran a wire from the light switch control # 20 pin of the blue switch ( red/ black stripe) to the red/ black stripe of the dimmer switch.... that gave me power to the front corner lights + dash lights + more important the tail lights. Hooray. I post a pic of the 20 pin connector. Hope OUR struggle help people in the future......now can any one help me with the no power to the switch control **** that controls the blower?????????
#62
04-26-2012, 05:54 PM
Glad you got it.
How about you start a new thread about the blower.....this one is getting long
EDIT: and one last thing, add your car info to your signature and then set your options to "display" your signature....please.
How about you start a new thread about the blower.....this one is getting long
EDIT: and one last thing, add your car info to your signature and then set your options to "display" your signature....please.
#63
02-18-2013, 01:49 PM
Hello all, first post here. I have a '91 Honda Accord and recently had this same issue happen to me, no taillights, dash lights or front corner lights. I just wanted to thank everyone in here for all the work that they did to get this issue resolved. I was able to jump the #20 pin to the dimmer and everything is now working again! Thanks to all of you!
This is for those that like me are mechanically or electronically challenged, and in case the above picture isn’t always accessible.
First I am not a mechanic or an electrician so do this at your own risk.
The wires that you jump or connect are located around the dash on the driver’s side. You are looking for a wide blue plug with about 11 or twelve wires in it, there are quite a few empty spaces on the plug. This plug is located on the driver’s side above the pedals.
On the ’91 Accord there is a dash colored panel just above your feet that you can pop off, after that there is a metal plate that you can remove for better access. You will need a 10mm wrench or socket to get the 4 bolts out.
After you have located the blue plug you need to identify the red and black wire, this wire is located on one of the corners. This is the wire that you are going to connect to the black and red wire that is attached to the back of the dimmer switch (the switch on the dash that controls your dash gauge brightness).
This is where my instructions are going to get kinda messy. While I love my car she is in no way a show piece so I’m just going to relay what I did.
Next you need to gain access to the dimmer switch wires, remove the two screws above the gauge cluster (speedometer, etc). Next using a flat headed screw driver work around the trim that surrounds the center vents (above your fan and temp *****. I was able to do this without damaging the dash, just be careful. Eventually I was able to get it pulled out enough that I could get a grip on it. While pulling on this out the dimmer switch popped out. After freeing the dimmer switch I put the dash back together. Next I snaked a wire (very easy to do as there’s lots of room) behind where the dimmer switch was down to where the blue plug is, just reach up and feel for it. Next either splice your new wire into both the dimmer and the blue plug or you can use some t-taps. If you splice it in make sure to use electrical tape or caps.
This is for those that like me are mechanically or electronically challenged, and in case the above picture isn’t always accessible.
First I am not a mechanic or an electrician so do this at your own risk.
The wires that you jump or connect are located around the dash on the driver’s side. You are looking for a wide blue plug with about 11 or twelve wires in it, there are quite a few empty spaces on the plug. This plug is located on the driver’s side above the pedals.
On the ’91 Accord there is a dash colored panel just above your feet that you can pop off, after that there is a metal plate that you can remove for better access. You will need a 10mm wrench or socket to get the 4 bolts out.
After you have located the blue plug you need to identify the red and black wire, this wire is located on one of the corners. This is the wire that you are going to connect to the black and red wire that is attached to the back of the dimmer switch (the switch on the dash that controls your dash gauge brightness).
This is where my instructions are going to get kinda messy. While I love my car she is in no way a show piece so I’m just going to relay what I did.
Next you need to gain access to the dimmer switch wires, remove the two screws above the gauge cluster (speedometer, etc). Next using a flat headed screw driver work around the trim that surrounds the center vents (above your fan and temp *****. I was able to do this without damaging the dash, just be careful. Eventually I was able to get it pulled out enough that I could get a grip on it. While pulling on this out the dimmer switch popped out. After freeing the dimmer switch I put the dash back together. Next I snaked a wire (very easy to do as there’s lots of room) behind where the dimmer switch was down to where the blue plug is, just reach up and feel for it. Next either splice your new wire into both the dimmer and the blue plug or you can use some t-taps. If you splice it in make sure to use electrical tape or caps.
#64
02-18-2013, 06:58 PM
Well, glad some info was able to help....and thank you for adding a few details of "how you did it".......and let me say, I hate electrical issues.
Only thing I'd like to add, I "think" the dimmer can be pulled without getting into the dash.....gently pry around the edge (very,very small screw driver) and I think it will just "pop" out.
PS- Welcome to HAF.
Only thing I'd like to add, I "think" the dimmer can be pulled without getting into the dash.....gently pry around the edge (very,very small screw driver) and I think it will just "pop" out.
PS- Welcome to HAF.
#65
03-24-2013, 09:06 PM
Oooh my god...I think it ist done..I was driving today and it suddenly reved up high and didnt switch gears automatically. I pulled over and put it in park...driv e and nothin...d3 nothing....d2 yes.. d1 yes...no reverse either....dam it...wtf... I pulled the transmision dip stick n smelled pretty bad...burnt..wtf...ivdont drag race in this car.. why does this happen to me...I noticed that the liquid level is low...I will be buying some tramission fluid tomorrow. And pray for a miracle...what else could it be?
#66
03-25-2013, 06:59 PM
Well a few things come to mind.
Low fluid level......fluid needs to be changed.....check for any codes (D4 light blinks when service connector is jumped).
Since you say the fluid is/was "burnt". I highly suggest a few drain and fill cycles of Honda Trans fluid. About nine quarts of Honda trans fluid - yes it is ~$8 a quart at most - is needed. Do one drain and fill (~3 quarts per). Drive the car a bit - say ~20 miles or a week, then do the second....then repeat the drive cycle and do the third.
Low fluid level......fluid needs to be changed.....check for any codes (D4 light blinks when service connector is jumped).
Since you say the fluid is/was "burnt". I highly suggest a few drain and fill cycles of Honda Trans fluid. About nine quarts of Honda trans fluid - yes it is ~$8 a quart at most - is needed. Do one drain and fill (~3 quarts per). Drive the car a bit - say ~20 miles or a week, then do the second....then repeat the drive cycle and do the third.
#67
04-01-2013, 08:50 AM
I tried what you suggested...it worked for a couple of days then it started to do the same thing..it wont go passed the 1 or 2 gear...I was at a light and it thrusted forward quiet abruptly three times in a short burst...then I couldn't get passed the second gear...d4 no acceleration ...d3 nothing I had to shift pack in to #2 to get some power and acceleration.
#68
04-01-2013, 07:58 PM
So there are no leaks in the trans...meaning the fluid level is fine now?
Next, what if any stored codes are there? Jump the service connector and check for any flashes from the D4/S light and or the CEL light.
Pretty good info for 4th gens here: Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.
Next, what if any stored codes are there? Jump the service connector and check for any flashes from the D4/S light and or the CEL light.
Pretty good info for 4th gens here: Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.
#69
04-02-2013, 03:07 PM
im having the same problem kinda, everything works except my parking lights in the front. i tryied getting a all new sockets for both sides tested the wire to see if they where live and they where, i bare wired the new and old sockets in and now they both do not work plz help someone?
btw i have a 97 honda accord SE
btw i have a 97 honda accord SE
#70
04-02-2013, 09:51 PM
im having the same problem kinda, everything works except my parking lights in the front. i tryied getting a all new sockets for both sides tested the wire to see if they where live and they where, i bare wired the new and old sockets in and now they both do not work plz help someone?
btw i have a 97 honda accord SE
btw i have a 97 honda accord SE