Hey all, a few months ago I began to notice the clutch slipping a bit in my '97 4-door 5-speed EX (150,000 miles). The car was still driving with no problems until this morning, when after pulling into my driveway and coming to a normal stop the clutch stopped working. Regardless of gear, my Accord would not accelerate and I could idle in any gear with my foot off the clutch.

This is what happened immediately before I pulled into the driveway and realized my beloved Accord was undrivable. I got in the car and drove about 1 mile in normal city driving. I then gunned it to 60 for approximately 8 seconds before having to downshift and break to a near complete stop (not slamming on the breaks, but having to slow and stop quicker than I would have liked). I did something downshifting and braking which I never do--I shifted directly from 4th to 2nd gear. The car made an "annoyed" sound which I don't exactly remember but didn't think was particularly notable. I then continued downhill about a 1/4 mile before turning into my driveway and coming to a stop. I tried to move up the driveway a few more feet but the Accord acted like it was in neutral. I realized then I probably burned out the clutch.

Further context:
1. I got in a fender-bender a few months prior which nudged in my radiator support a few inches. As a result my hood does not close properly and I have it "safely" secured with strong zip ties and hockey skate laces until I can find a replacement hood (mechanic says for $100 he will pull the radiator support back into its proper position). I have driven 2,000-3,000 miles in this condition.

2. The check engine light first came on about a month ago. I took it a guy who used an older reader and told me the code meant I just needed to replace the gas cap (a $10 check engine light fix!). He cleared the code but it came back on a few days later so I brought it to back to the guy and he told me the code was the same... replace gas cap. I don't have the exact code I just went by what he told me to do. Again he cleared the code but it came back on a week later (about a week ago). I should have gotten it checked out somewhere else but didn't.

3. The ABS light came on randomly 5-6 months ago in the middle of a half hour trip (normal driving conditions). A mechanic told me a number of minor brake issues could trigger it and I shouldn't worry about it too much. The ABS light came on and off at random intervals and I haven't seen it on for the last month or so.

4. I replaced one of the rear brake rotors this past summer after discovering it and some screws were completely corroded. I did much of the job myself but a mechanic had to complete the job because of an extremely stubborn rusted/mangled screw.


tl/dr: clutch blew and I'm trying to understand how and why and if something I did caused it!

Please help explain what happened to the clutch/give some advice on finding a shop to replace the clutch?! I never had to get one replaced before (I am unsure if this car's clutch was previously replaced or not).

Thanks and glad to join the forum!

 

How many miles on the car. I suspect it to be a clutch issue. You mentioned that you suspected it a couple of months prior. Count your blessings on making it home. You likely just finished it off with the downshift.

Not from DC but look for someone familiar with Honda. The job isn't too bad to do but it is nice to have someone work on it that is familiar with Hondas.

 

Get the code(s)-CEL code should beging with P and have four numbers, something like P1456. Also see if you can get the ABS code(s). Post the codes.

 

Thanks for the responses. Car has 150,000 miles, unsure if clutch was previously replaced by prior owner but I'm guessing no. Since the check engine light is still on I'll get the code when I get it towed to a mechanic tomorrow.

 

For future reference, codes will store-or at least should unless there are more issues. Meaning, anytime the CEL comes on (other than bulb check at start up) the ECU will store/save the code(s) in memory until it is cleared-pulling fuse, removing battery cable long enough or by a scanner.

Yea at 150K..I bet it is toast. Seen them go further but of course no one knows what the original owner did.

 

So I got it towed to a mechanic who took it apart and confirmed that the flywheel needs to be replaced as well since it was worn below the rivets. For the clutch replacement he quoted me $915 + $99 for the new flywheel + tax.. I'm still waiting for the Accord's list of CEL codes and the ABS code if possible.