I am planning on replacing my driver's side wheel bearing as I am hearing the telltale "howling" noise. The passenger side was done last year by a shop, and I want to do the other side myself. I'm a little confused about what situation requires having the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.

Sometimes I see the first picture described as a "wheel bearing" but also as a "wheel bearing and hub assembly".

But in my mind the second picture should actually be considered the assembly.

If I purchase what is in the first picture, will I still need to have it pressed out/in at a shop?

I also want to replace the CV axle at the same time. Besides a new axle nut, is there anything else I should buy to replace at the same time?

 

Yes. The second pic shows the assembly which wouldn't require pressing.

Replacing the bearing alone doesn't necessarily require a press; there are workarounds. See youtube video FEDrioMDe1k.

The hub/bearing assembly isn't much more expensive than the bearing alone.

 

What year is this car - kind of looks like a 4th or 5th gen (90-97).

When you have is apart, check all of the suspension items (ball joints, tie rods, ect).

 

It's a 94 (I just added it to my sig)

Where can I get the true "wheel bearing and hub assembly" in the second pic for a decent price? The only place I was able to find it was a web parts place called AM Autoparts, but they have a lot of negative reviews. I've seen a few others here and there but they were all over $100. I can get the bearing alone (pic 1) for $15-30 from Rockauto.

Please let me know as I'd rather do this as simply as possible if it is only a bit more $ for the hub/bearing combo!

 

I'm not really sure where they can be had for much less, meaning the hub and bearing.

Do some google searches on replacing rotors, hubs or bearings on these cars (94-97). There a pleanty of "ways" you can do this yourself. Yes the official answer is to have it pressed by a shop but I can tell you there are plenty of "creative" ways of doing this yourself....meaning buy the bearing, maybe ~$30 dollars of tools, bolts, whatever and press out the old hub and install the old hub into the new bearing.

 

One of this site's sponsors, TheAutoPartsShop, has a National brand assembly for $69 shipped.

Edit: maybe not. No pic shown.

Edit #2: I'm guessing it's just the bearing, not the hub too. My favorite wheel bearing source, HubBearing(dot)com is apparently out of business. They used to sell the complete Timken (NSK) assemblies for ~$60. Sorry for leading you down the wrong path.

I successfully replaced the passenger FWB using Eric's video (but with no air tools) using his cutoff wheel method. The only hitch: a hunk of hardened steel sliced right into my face when popping the race off with the chisel. Wear a full face mask, not just safety glasses. Freeze the hub in your freezer for an hour or two, and warm the bearing in the sun, before "pressing" them together(8:25 in the video.)

 

Hmmm... I don't see it on that site. I see this:

Brand: National
Part Number: 94honaccord/513098
Category: Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
Condition: New
Description: Hub Assembly
1994 honda accord LX 4 Cyl.2.2L -Front Wheel
Price: $46.09

But there is no pic, so no way to tell if it is a "true" assembly, or just the bearing itself. It seems a little too good to be true that it is the bearing and hub together, since the hub alone shows for over $90...

I guess I will give them a call tomorrow and see what's what.

There is one on ebay for $64.90 shipped from a seller called 1aautomotive, but I'm always wary of ebay parts sellers when it is something that is kind of hard to find elsewhere...

 

I can tell you this - a National 513098 is just the bearing.

 

Yes, that makes sense. Another example of the mislabeling I was talking about by referring to it as a "Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly"...

So it looks like either I will have to do it the hard way/ DIY youtube method(s), or take a chance on the ebay ACTUAL Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly I mentioned.

Thanks for helping me sort this out!

 

So I decided to go with the ebay "true" wheel bearing and hub assembly for $65 shipped. That and a new front left cv axle from Advanced Auto. Everything came apart and went back together without any major difficulties. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed a sort of rotational hum/vibration above 55 mph. Maybe something to do with the aftermarket axle? I also noticed that the original axle had a rubber doughnut on the shaft, whereas the replacement axle did not. What is this doughnut thing on the original axle?