Yeah, you could divert the power wires to just the halos. But the halo rings arent bright enough to be your turn signals. And, I will be selling my black projectors soon.

 

If you want them on anytime you turn your car on then you need to find a constant lead source. You can either look at the underhood fuse box and see if there is a block that's not being used and tap into that (make sure the it turns on with the key) or run a wire to your cigarette lighter, those would probably be the easiest ways.

 

From that perspective, a cast block started out as a liquid, but that doesn't mean I'm going to pour molten iron under my hood and call it an engine! The solid tape is less likely to have a wire splinter remain bare.

 

For that matter a good wire nut and electricians tape is the best IMO... Never used the liquid stuff though, always been a solder or wire nut kinda guy...

 

I like shrink wrap better than nuts for wiring that does not have to come apart at a later time. I've seen to many of them come off and cause shorts. If you are using the nuts, make sure they are the kind with the spring-like coil inside. Prefab butt connectors (not my name, that's what their called!!!) work well too, but you need a powerful pair of plyers to get them tight enough. I use either a 14" channel lock or vice-grips.

 

The risk of them coming off is why I always try to use some electricians tape as well. I've used a lot of the butt connectors and those work well as long as you get them tight. The last audio place I had do some work on my car actually used those then shrink wrapped the connectors, it was a slick setup....

 

Do my ears deceive me? Are these car "nuts" aka enthusiasts using electrical tape and just wrapping a wire around another? Lord almighty please tell me i'm hearing wrong!? Electrical connections should ONLY be soldered and shrink tubed!!! However I have butt crimped and shrink tubed that and I agree, that's a pretty smooth set up. unless you want it removable, whatever you're working on, then you can use male and female connectors but even then i pull the protector back from the metal and solder them up to the cable. Oy! I am ashamed at what I am hearing I am in love with car electrical systems, they inspire me. I am currently rebuilding a 71 Dodge Challenger with a 440 stroked to 502 with my father in law and I wanted to give the car a little bit of a new look so I am cracking open the taillights and making from scratch LED taillights. and not just stuffing them in there either, i'm installing them on a board with the correct resistors and such.

SOOOOO, that was why I am rambling. I noticed someone said to install the halo wires to a lower voltage source as low as 3v. I haven't looked at these halos before, is the light that supplies it fron an LED? If so just use a resistor in line with the power line. you can solder that in line and use shrink tubing over it too

If you work on your car in any way shape or form, YOU SHOULD OWN A SOLDERING GUN!!!!

enough of my soapbox, i'm getting down now.

 

I always solder stuff in. I just dipped all of the bare wires and plus some in the liquid tape, but it already has electrical tape too. I like the liquid stuff because like others have said, it doesnt have the chance of unwrapping.

When I put the Halos in, a few months ago, and when I took them out this weekend the tape had unraveled quite a bit. Hence, why I like the electrical liquid!