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  #1  
Old 02-18-2009, 02:23 AM
zachyzissou's Avatar
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as far as installing strips in the trunk around my subs. how does one go about doing that. or near the flour under the back seat. where should i draw my power from?
andddd well i was hoping i could set it up to just turn on with the car. possible at all?
i also purchased some led turn signals for my mirrors as far as hooking those up does anyone know where i could get some general direction?
 
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Old 02-23-2009, 05:39 PM
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Well, you best bet it to run all your own wiring. You can use a 12v source such as your car battery to tap into if you are using alot of strips such as a whole vehicle scenario, but I have heard that you might want to find a 5v source for just a few interior strips. At least that is what I hooked into for the led's in my headlights. You can prob tap into your ACC fuse in your fuse box. That would prob be enough power a few small strips. Im not sure of the voltage. That would also cut them on when you turn the key.
 
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:10 AM
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LED's are a low current light source..

these "strips" you mention are probably pre-made strips bought as is.. designed usually to run on the vehicle's 12V system..

so just about any power souce should do fine..

now.. here are things to consider..

Legality of interior lighting like that.. in some states(including mine) having ANY source of lighting inside the car (including the dome light) turned on at night is considered a driving distraction and you can get pulled over/fined for this..

so you may wanna check up on that..


personally.. i would install a 3 way switch (toggle, rocker, whatever you choose) center off and two on positions.. wired so that one position is ACC power and the other position is constant 12V.


the reason behind this is:

lets say there are no legality issues where you live.. that's great.. but eventually you may get tired of them being on while you're driving around.. or potentially run into problems with driving out of town and their laws.. so having a switch allows you to turn them off if you want/need to..

the switch suggested and wiring method allows for the lights to be operated primarily by ignition switch, with ability to turn them off, and if desired.. have them on regardless of key switch position.. so say.. you park at a car show or something and it's getting kinda dark.. you can turn them on while you're not in the car.. being LED based.. you should be able to leave them on for a considerable amount of time before it begins affecting your battery voltage/starting ability..


so that's my 2 cents on that matter..


as for installing them.. depending on the product used, there is literally an endless method of mounting/securing them.. anything from zip ties to some sort of screw down/nail down fastener (like those used to hold coaxial cable in your house) as long as the method of choice does not cause physical damage/excess stress to the product itself you should be fine.. LED's are really durable themselves.. it's usually what they're assembled on that is the issue...

flexible LED "strips" are usually similar to a rope light in construction and quite flexible.. these could be attached using something like the coax clips i mentioned.. or zip ties if going to be hidden and there's somewhere to zip them up to..

other variations of LED strips are typically made using a thin strip of circuit board.. which is rigid and brittle.. this allows less options for mounting..


for around the subwoofers.. i'd go with something like the flexible "mini rope light" style ones if you can get ahold of them.. that way you can accomodate whatever diameter you need to..


Here's another thought.. a set of neon/cold cathode (CCFL's) subwoofer "rings" preformed in a specific size.. mounting brackets included.. and the inverter runs off 12V


whether you go with the CCFL's or LED strips.. for the subs, i'd wire in a relay feeding off the 12V constant supply that is switched by the remote wire.. that way they only come on when the headunit/amps are on



alright, i think i gave you enough reading material lol..


later,

~Moddage
 
  #4  
Old 02-24-2009, 01:50 AM
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THATS the kind of answer i was looking for! hahah i have four interior strips and 2 for the mirros
1. they're 12v strips and they have adhesive on the back.
2. how much are these little switches you speak of?
3. would it be worth it to not only have a switch but also wire it into my headlight switch?
4. what color is the wire i would need to splice them into or how would i access the place to wire them into
5. how would i go about finding the right wire to hook the mirror strips into
6. what should i use crimp caps, electrical tape etc for hooking up everything in general
 
  #5  
Old 02-24-2009, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Moddage



alright, i think i gave you enough reading material lol..




Perfect!
 
  #6  
Old 02-27-2009, 11:09 PM
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Okay.. as for wire colors.. i don't know offhand.. basically what you're looking for is a 12V constant source and a switched (ACC) 12V source under the dash.. from there you'll have to make your own splices and run your own wire..

the switches aren't usually too much.. my local auto parts place has some for around 4 bucks i think.. various sizes, shapes, and types as well.. so does radioshack..

basically you want a SPDT switch.. (single pole dual throw) this has a single pole or circuit with 2 possible paths.. when switched one direction it connects the center terminal to one of the outer terminals.. when switched the other way.. the other terminal.. and usually the center is off.. you can get them that have no center position if you prefer that..


i'll try and come up with a basic diagram and post it up here..


basically the 12v constant would go to one outer terminal of the switch.. and the switched (ACC) 12V would go to the other outer terminal.. the center terminal would then become your 12V feed to the LED's


the negative of the LED's could go to a ground wire or just to the chassis..


as for the ones in the trunk.. i stick by my original description of wiring them into the power, ground, and remote wires.. so they are switched by the headunit.. you will need a relay though.. remote output from the headunit can usually only handle 500mA max.


Hope this helps some more until i can draw up a basic diagram..

~Moddage
 
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