Thank You! This was quite helpful! I just have one question, because I honestly don't know, how will I know if it's a +12V source with an inline fuse?

 

I've merged the two threads together, so it might read a bit funny.

There are "add a circuit" fuse taps you can buy. You can add this to a source/fuse just as KHA has suggested.

 

Would it work to get a 10 amp fuse tap for what I'm looking to do?

 

Did the lights come with any kind of paperwork/instructions? To me (again I hate electrical) that a 10amp sounds about right but when it comes to that.....KHA knows way more than I ever will.

I'm only good with the theory . Find a power source that is "hot at all times", then use the factory "ground applied when door open" (from the door jam switch). I looked up the factory set up before my first post about this to confirm that is the way the door lights work on this model/year.

 

haha no the lights didn't come with any instructions, and I get that, is there a hole in the firewall that I'd be able to run that fuse tap through? and is there any way to do it without having the lid off the fuse box all the time?

 

LED will draw milli-amps.

Fuse is sized for the wire. so you need to determine the wire size then fuse based on that. 3A is a safe size.

 

Curious to know how this ended up! did Brandon ever get his sill plates wired up properly? If so, did he think to post pictures?

I am thinking of doing the same thing to my 2013 Accord.
The way I see it is how poorman212 described it.
Run the wire to the door jamb switch - there looks to be one at every door. No fuss, no muss. just need a snake to run the wire thru the body frame where the sill plate is being mounted to.
The sill's I saw looked pretty nice with the LED's lit up.

So, Brandon, if you're still reading these threads - let us know how it went and what route you took.