i need to cut a piece to go under the eq to fill that hole. i had one but i broke it. gonna cut another at work and i need to get that left corner clipped in. i was in kind of a hurry to finish it up before class. i had it put in a lot better the first time but i forgot to reconnect the a/c and had to pull it all back out. but you get the point and i am sure it isnt that hard to imagine what it will look like when i fix those two things.

edit: just went outside and looked at that because the gap was bothering me. it isnt a gap it is where the trim goes back in at an angle. not sure why my camera picked it up like that.

and for the smexyness my new boxes i just finished and got in today;

 

Get an amp with an auto turn-on. Don't wire the amp remote to the fuse box. JL Audio 500/1 is perfect for adding a sub to a stock system. JL Cleansweep allows integration and sub level controls. A preloaded JL sub enclosure would make it easy to get bass that sounds great. Using the stock head unit is fine.

 

This is the only part of your response I will disagree with. I NEVER ground to suspension bolts. The soft metals used for ring terminals compromise the strength and safety of the suspension bolt. Sanding paint introduces rust, you don't want to weaken that metal. Additionally, the ground path is poor due to numerous welds and suspension paths. I prefer to keep current away from suspension systems, since the grounding location is a current source.

I always ground to the trunk floor, the thickest part of the car and away from other components. It is usually the lowest resistance path. locate a safe location accessible from underneath, drill, sand, bolt, and coat with connector protector or silicone.

Also, upgrade battery grounds. See my ELD sticky for the Big 3 upgrade. Factory battery and alternator wiring is not sized for an upgraded sound system.

 

When adding subs to the stock system, I get my LOC signal from the front speaker outputs so I can fade to front when leaving rear speakers active. I want sound in front of me so I fade to front a bit, I never fade to rear When I remove rear deck speakers I will get the LOC signal from the rear speakers so I can use the fader as a sub level control.

Adding passive high pass crossovers , i.e. Bass blocker capacitors, on the factory woofers will substantially improve sound quality by removing low bass frequencies nownhandled by the subwoofer. These are cheap and easy to install.

 

that is an extremely valid point and i have never thought of it like that. i currently have mine grounded to the trunk and not to the strut tower. everything i have read/seen says to ground to the strut tower because it is a direct path to the frame. which also makes sense to me. my current ground is fine for me and iget no dimming. i guess, op, take from this what you will. kha probably has more experience with this than i do i just no what i have seen/heard.

 

I think for now i am going to install a LOC and keep the factory head unit, i would like NOT to have to run a remote wire to my fuse box, it would be nice to have an amp that sensed itself and turned on. what is your thought on preamped boxes like this one?
Sound Sound Ordnance™ B-8P 80-watt powered bandpass subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8P/Sound-Ordnance-B-8P.html?tp=114

or is it better to get an amp and sub enclosuer?

 

with that you would still need a remote turn-on. i vote no. also, cheap bandpass are disappointing.

this is a better powered sub combo, but it still needs a remote turn on.
JL Audio PWM110-WJX PowerWedge MAX 10" powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

Infinity Basslink offers an auto turn-on
Infinity Basslink Powered Subwoofer at Crutchfield Signature

A JL 250/1 v2 combined with a simple sub + enclosure will offer the best "boom for the buck"

 

a lot of people in forums have strut towers as a ground point because they are lazy and lack an understanding of electricity. It is fast and easy, that's it. But the risks are high and the ground path is poor. That strut tower is connected to the floor/body through welds. The only connection to the frame is through the strut itself. But the strut is designed with seals and rubber gaskets and seats to improve ride quality - it is not designed to pass current. I suspect that providing s current path through the strut will also affect the gas/liquid on a molecular level. Regardless, you see it done but it isn't a good idea. That is the inherent problem with forums, information is presented as fact from people who shouldn't be providing advice.

When grounding amps in a vehicle, I inspect the body for. Low resistance path; the fewest welds and the thickest metal.

And always remember that DC electricity flows from negative to positive. Current is charge flow. Charge is negative. Negative moves toward opposite polarity. Electrons try to get back to the positive terminal. "power" wire is a return path. This is why grounds are vital.

 

 

How is the JL 250/1 v2 hooked up? if it doesnt need a remote wire it just receives power from battery ad ground to trunk and rca from rear speakers signal the amp to turn off and on?"
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