2003 Accord Firewall hole.
#2
pull your driver kick panel and there will be a gromet on the firewall where all the power for the car comes in. other than that you would have to drill a hole. the best place i know of to drill will be pull your carpet back on the driver side and in the padding there will be a little square of the padding that you can pull out. remove that and there is a plate. drill on the right edge of that. if you drill to far left you will come out in the wheel well. i would suggest just using the gromet behind the kick panel.
#3
^pics of that would be great. just above the gas pedal on the fire wall there are usually removable pieces of foam/barrier. just inside (toward middle) of the master cylinder is a common location for a spot to drill that keeps the wire high on the firewall.
I usually remove the lower dash trim (under the steering column) to gain more visibility. sometimes you have to cut the factory foam/barrier and fold it back. be sure to replace it when you are done with strong tape to hold it securely back together (if necessary)..
always use a grommet on power wire that passes through the firewall or any metal opening. split loom should be used to protect the power wire in the engine bay with a fuse no more than 12" from the battery post. you may already do that, but it's worth mentioning.
I usually remove the lower dash trim (under the steering column) to gain more visibility. sometimes you have to cut the factory foam/barrier and fold it back. be sure to replace it when you are done with strong tape to hold it securely back together (if necessary)..
always use a grommet on power wire that passes through the firewall or any metal opening. split loom should be used to protect the power wire in the engine bay with a fuse no more than 12" from the battery post. you may already do that, but it's worth mentioning.
#5
sorry its real blurry i couldnt get my head around to see and my flash was reflecting off the panel but you can see the wire follow it up and there is the gromet.
again you can see where my wire is running. just for reference to compare to above picture
from the engine bay. the wire goes straight over the strut tower. the gromet is directly back there. hard to reach but it is there. you can see my run and where it starts to parrellel the factory wiring. if you find that wire bundle and follow it, it goes straight through
#9
you should put protective covering over that power wire (tech flex or split loom) and secure it in the engine bay every 8" or so (zip ties).
my battery wiring currently:
one of the power wire locations i've used in the past (before final routing and without split loom for visibility). a streetwires grommet is used, and now it's 1/0 - and routed to prevent issues. i can take a pic of my current routing.
my battery wiring currently:
one of the power wire locations i've used in the past (before final routing and without split loom for visibility). a streetwires grommet is used, and now it's 1/0 - and routed to prevent issues. i can take a pic of my current routing.
#10
the wire insulation is rated to take the heat. is there any particular reason for the split loom? i plan on tying it i just havent yet. i have another run to make and i am going to secure them to each other and the firewall. it doesnt move around a lot. i realize why it needs to be i just havent done it yet and it doesnt seem to be that pressing.