the reason it will overheat is because:
the case on the amp is the heat sink. it is designed so that heat rises through the top and dissipates that way. the board is mounted on the bottom of the amp. if you mount them upside down you draw the heat away from the heat sink and into the board.

you can try it, but more than likely it is going to get hot.

that amp does have a thermal protect, so it should turn off before it burns up, which is a good thing. if you get it installed that way and the amp keeps cutting off that is probably the problem.

 

agreed. now, if you are only running the amp at 50% of it's potential (i.e. at 4 ohms instead of 2), and add a fan or two if it's not internally fan cooled, it can be fine. Most of the problems with inverted mounting happen when you push the amp near its thermal limits. The MFR doesn't test them upside down.

 

for the speaker installations, make sure you are using a closed cell rubber weatherstripping for vibration isolation and an airtight seal. cheap and easy but very effective.

 

My amp has high level inputs. I need to tap into the front speaker wires. Is there a stock crossover in the 2012 models? I just want to make sure i don't tap into wires after a crossover.

 

Just a update. I think I found Hondas excuse for a crossover, a small capacitor on the tweeter.
Also I have one complete door finished with dampening material and on the drive home I can tell a difference, cant wait until I get the stereo on line.
As far as the Polk speakers,I dont like the way they installed. Looking back I should of tried a different speaker in the doors. The CDT's installed real good.
This is turning out to be a big job. If I didnt have a warm indoor hangar I wouldnt be doing this.

 

most manufacturers just put a small cap on the factory tweeter. very few use external crossovers.

 

a lot of pro audio use caps for the crossover as well. it serves the same purpose as long as you are only trying to limit signal and not split it.

 

Powered up system and sounds great, that is until I started the car. With the music on I couldn't hear the alternator hum. With the radio off and engine running I get a hum that is constant with the engine rpm. I checked the ground and it's good, no ohm reading. I ran a power cable from the battery outside of the car to the amp and still hums. Then ran a power and neg cable outside the car and hum was worse. Is there a issue with Hondas and alternator noise off the battery?

 

On the way home thinking of my problem im wondering if my remote turn on is the culprit. Im using high level inputs and a remote turn on. The soundstream manual dosnt refer to not using a remote if using high level inputs. Guess ill try that tomorrow.

 

how long is your ground? should be less than 3 feet and grounded to a clean piece of sheet metal in the trunk. try to find a piece that connects directly to the frame and not a piece that is welded to another piece and then connects to the frame.

you can check for a ground loop by unplugging the inputs from the amp. then starting the car. if you still get the wine with no input then it is more than likely a ground. if you only get it when the inputs are plugged in it is coming from your signal. and the issue is not at your amp, but somewhere from your head unit to your amp. if that is the case and it is coming from your inputs you could get a ground loop isolator and that may help.