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2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP

  #1  
Old 12-09-2015, 03:40 PM
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Question 2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP

Thank you for reading my post! I feel so lost not being able to find good info on this...Ok sold the mustang and bought an accord! Super happy with the car so far but I miss the low notes that aftermarket subs can bring. My main concern is what the long term effects and how well this setup would work in the car, I'm either going to have a shop do a professional install of my current equipment or downsize a bit. I just need to know what problems I could run into assuming everything else is stock on the car. The car is a 2013 Honda Accord sport and this the equipment I have:
Alpine MRD-M1005 amp 1000 watts RMS+ at 2ohms
2 Rockford fosgate DVC 12 in subwoofers 2ohm in a sealed box
0 gauge power and ground wire
All other necessary wires to hook up
Now the plan was to have a local shop put it in and hook up a BASS control **** and a converter through the stock unit. since I really like the balance of the stock system for the most part I may end up turning the subs off or much lower than max a lot of the time. And have it all set up in the trunk. Is this even possible while keeping stock system fully intact?

I need some advice! I need to know how this powerful amp will effect the stock electrical and if there's anything else I should look for like bad sound quality because of X or how the vibrations could effect things. I'm on a budget like everyone with Christmas coming around and don't wanna spend more than 300 bucks.

If you can help me in any way thanks in advance!
 

Last edited by Treynelson1; 12-09-2015 at 04:11 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-13-2015, 01:59 PM
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Welcome!

the stock system is fairly balanced and this was a measurement at the headrest:


this was in front of the door speaker itself


in order to achieve this response and also to allow the Active Noise Cancelling (ANC) system to function, there is equalization inside the head unit that looks like this:


you can see the bass roll-off in the output. you want an interface that can counteract this. you also want a remote bass **** that gives you control from the driver's seat. There are several products available that do this.

AudioControl LC7i is a good piece to use. It has future expansion capability for the future if you decide to upgrade speakers and add speaker amps. It also has bass restoration to help add bass back.

The front output is much stronger than the rear output. people commonly tap the rear speakers for a signal but you want to intercept the front signal. you'll need power for the LC7i anyway and this can be behind the factory radio



lastly, you need to disable the ANC system. there is a box in the dash that needs to be unplugged. there are several threads and videos on disabling the ANC.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP-track18ancon.jpg   2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP-track18ancoff6indoor.jpg   2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP-2014accordhuoutputpinknoise.jpg   2013 Honda Accord sport:1000 watt sound system HELP-2014accordharnessdiagram.jpg  
  #3  
Old 12-16-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
Welcome!

the stock system is fairly balanced and this was a measurement at the headrest:


this was in front of the door speaker itself


in order to achieve this response and also to allow the Active Noise Cancelling (ANC) system to function, there is equalization inside the head unit that looks like this:


you can see the bass roll-off in the output. you want an interface that can counteract this. you also want a remote bass **** that gives you control from the driver's seat. There are several products available that do this.

AudioControl LC7i is a good piece to use. It has future expansion capability for the future if you decide to upgrade speakers and add speaker amps. It also has bass restoration to help add bass back.

The front output is much stronger than the rear output. people commonly tap the rear speakers for a signal but you want to intercept the front signal. you'll need power for the LC7i anyway and this can be behind the factory radio



lastly, you need to disable the ANC system. there is a box in the dash that needs to be unplugged. there are several threads and videos on disabling the ANC.
thank you so much for the helpful info! so what i need to prevent losing that low bass is a processor? my current budget for this is 300 tops install and all. i was looking at the JL line out converter with a bass **** for like 50 bucks. this wouldn't do the trick? from what i can see it falls off around 40 - 50 hertz knowing this ill probably set the lpf on the amp around there. another question someone possibly could advise me on: i love my sealed box, but i am open to scrapping my stuff and going from there also open to doing the work i can at home to save but. IF i set the LPF at 40-50 hz, would i really be losing a noticeable amount of accuracy/quality if i just go ported tuned to around 30?

ok reading description seems like it wont work for that particular issue of the bass falling off, but please correct me if im wrong lol
http://www.jlaudio.com/cl-rlc-car-au...xpansion-98117

Thanks so much, i look forward to being a part of the community as i plan on having this car nearly forever :3
 

Last edited by Treynelson1; 12-16-2015 at 04:48 PM. Reason: Added link to jl cl-rlc line out converter
  #4  
Old 12-17-2015, 01:03 AM
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you are correct that the JL unit won't restore bass response. the JL Cleansweep will, but for more than the AudioControl models.

Amazon.com : AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control : Power Converters : Electronics Amazon.com : AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control : Power Converters : Electronics

low-tuned ported can have more low-end output, but you need an amp with a subsonic filter and you need to sacrifice more space. i run a single 12" sealed and am plenty happy with output. LPF will likely be as high as 80Hz if you haven't done anything else to the front speakers (i.e. amplify and replace with beefy drivers)
 
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:05 PM
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Thanks so much for your reply! I'm not too good at finding info for installs on these newer cars. One big question like I said trying to go as cheap as I can while getting what I want (like everyone else) but for right now I like the stock system just want more bass. If I were to get a processor i would go ahead and drop 1000- 1500 bucks in the sound but I'm a little weary about doing that right now as savings are getting low LOL and no one likes to see that! So I have the alpine mrd-m1005 while an older amp it's a boss and has a TON of features like LPF subsonic filter 12htz/24hz +-12Db EQ etc. My question is can I use the 30hz +-12DB bass boost to compensate for the stock curve? Would this make it sound right without too much sq loss? I'm about ready to start taking things apart I'm somewhat between these two builds

2 12 inch RF punch p3 subwoofers in:
Sealed zen closures box with the alpine mrb- m1005 wired @2ohms for 1000 watts.
Or
Selling 2ohm subs for RF pre loaded 2 12 inch subs in ported box, wiring them down to 4 ohms and using my alpine amp to provide 700 watts @ 4ohms. I can't link the pre loaded box cause I'm on iPhone but it's on Amazon and all the reviews are really good.

The first option having a cleaner look and the second having bigger sound with LESS current draw. Which is something I'm very concerned about. Don't wanna hurt my new Honda
Once I get the $ I'm hoping to get a processor and install a full 6.2 sq system and I'll be back on here for that one but will my amp DB boost fix the eq curve? And any advice on what I am planning or what you would reccomend would be appreciated. THANKS HAPPY NEW YEAR!
 
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:11 PM
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Wow typed a longer reply going into more detail on my equipment but idk where it went >.> anyway short version. I have the alpine mrd-m1005 amp and it had a eq built in you can +-24 at 30-40hz would this eq be able to counteract the stock systems eq properly?? If not I saw this Soundstream BX-22i (bx22i) Digital Bass Reconstruction Processor
Does it look like it would suffice to flatten out the bass tones? I'm new to this level of car audio so I'm very unfamiliar with features and brands. Any advice is much appreciated I'm about ready to dive into the install. Also has anyone here hooked up 1k watts on the stock system? I don't wanna destroy my alternator lol THANKS, HAPPY NEW YEAR!
 
  #7  
Old 12-30-2015, 05:10 PM
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i prefer long responses for more detail.

yes, you have an awesome sub amp and you can use the built-in EQ to help compensate for the factory roll-off. play around with the parametric EQ to find the best balance for your tastes (i'd center on 45Hz). i'd run the LPF at 12dB/oct at 80Hz or so, invert phase on the sub to compensate for the crossover phase shift.

i have a healthy sound system and the alternator is fine. note it will regulate at 12.5VDC so don't be concerned. i have videos on my YouTube channel showing the charging characteristics.
 
  #8  
Old 12-30-2015, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Treynelson1 View Post
Wow typed a longer reply going into more detail on my equipment but idk where it went >.> anyway short version. I have the alpine mrd-m1005 amp and it had a eq built in you can +-24 at 30-40hz would this eq be able to counteract the stock systems eq properly?? If not I saw this Soundstream BX-22i (bx22i) Digital Bass Reconstruction Processor
Does it look like it would suffice to flatten out the bass tones? I'm new to this level of car audio so I'm very unfamiliar with features and brands. Any advice is much appreciated I'm about ready to dive into the install. Also has anyone here hooked up 1k watts on the stock system? I don't wanna destroy my alternator lol THANKS, HAPPY NEW YEAR!

i recommend running the 12's in a sealed enclosure so you don't need a subsonic HPF.

your amp has an EQ built-in so you don't need the product you linked to. it's just an EQ anyway.
 
  #9  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:35 AM
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Well then seems I ordered the audio control unit for nothing lol. My long term build will hopefully end up being a 4.2 system with a 4 channel amp running to components up front and full band in rear deck. With 2 sealed 10s pushing about 800 watts total between both amps so hopefully installing the unit will make swapping and adding much easier. Supposed to show up on Monday at that point I'll install what I have then go from there based on how the car does with 1000+ watt amp o.O wish me luck! Thanks again! Will update thread once it's all installed ;D I think I read an older thread you did on the voltage thing built in and how you worked around it. So is this going to make my power system act crazy to protect the alt if the amp is too much? Hell this amp even has a hpf and a LPF to filter out subsonic frequencies lol. Based on the reviews I feel the audio control unit you linked to me was still a good buy but knowing all this I would have been fine with a cheap LPF? After I get this situated I'd like to talk about building a SQ system as that will be my project in a year or so. What are the best brands for sq in the doors? I've only tried Memphis higher end in the doors and those were nice but I remember some distortion at certain frequencies :/
 
  #10  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:38 PM
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the 2013 and up Accords have a CANBUS connection to the alternator which allows the PCM to control and regulate voltage as it sees fit for power and fuel economy. but it will regulate at 12.5V which is good (used to just shut it off).

I have a pretty decent system in and the stock alt and stock battery hold up... but i have a 500F ultracapacitor bank which does alleviate some drop.

i don't have a bypass for the new Accords yet.

There are many decent speakers for the front doors, anything above $500 is decent if properly installed. i spend about 20 hours installing door speakers, most of that time is spent treating the door for resonance and sound absorption.
 

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