I'm at an impasse with my project. No matter what I do I can't seem to restore the 30htz band. I have test tones and the 30htz is ridiculously low compared to the rest do I just need to get a 16 band eq to fix this??

 

sorry for the delay, just saw this.

lower resistance means less power from the amp. means it will be a bit quieter. same output level uses the same power. it's worth a try if you can live with less output.

removing the metal is a nice compromise. better than with, but with the seat down it's louder. however, now that my enclosure is facing the rear passenger corner, i prefer seat up and i get plenty of output.

as far as sub 30Hz goes, make sure your amp doesn't have a subsonic filter setting that's messing with output. that filter is used with ported boxes and set just below the tuning frequency. so below the box tuning frequency, you won't get any output.

below 30Hz is hard to get anyway, and there isn't much music that plays that low. most bass is 40Hz and up.

 

I apologize for the misunderstanding, I'm not looking for sub 30 hz output. I simply observed that when using a 30hz test tone the output was EXTREMELY low compared to the rest of the spectrum and I've used the test tones a lot never seen such a loss at 30... :c I am planning on dropping my friends 4ohm wired box in soon to see how that is (his is ported too so I get to try that as well) I have found the settings where it sounds the best but 1000 watts I still worry could cause permanent damage to my electricals. I can live with lower output but having the ridiculous output that this setup can bring on hand when I feel like having it is super nice. Main thing I'm concerned about is my 18000 $ investment (the accord) lol thanks for all your help again! I'm surprised no one else has jumped on here. Few people in the forums into car audio?

 

Some forums are filled with people that comment without providing useful information, providing incorrect information, or they make negative comments. This forum is ran by helpful people that only speak up when needed.

 

Ok I finally found what I believe to be the best setup. THE BIGGEST IMPROVEMENT MADE was getting the *** at the audio shop to tap into the other side. The sound is much more rich and full now. Like it is in harmony with the other speakers. Also now that I have the lpf set to 80 hz it matters much less with the seat up than it did before. I cannot convey how much of a difference tapping oth sides made its pretty ridiculous that was not done to begin with. Now I can focus on making it look pretty and maybe adding a capacitor for the more demanding bass hits. then it's on to adding more treble! Now that I found a balance I can live with I hope to improve part by part over time, next I feel like stopping the rear deck brake light from vibrating on the glass will improve quality greatly and it may not cost too much since his seems to be the main source of vibration. Next I was considering adding the tweeters tapped into door speakers crossed over at about 4K. I always thought tweeters didn't take much power to run so just tapping the door would be enough? Would it sap power from my kids like this? If so that is out of the question as that would create an incredibly inbalanced system. I just want to improve the frequency response and overall sound stage. Any thoughts?

 

you can add tweeters without making a difference on the other speakers.

you can add a piece of weatherstripping foam on the third brake light to keep it off the glass.

 

Thanks for the help, any reccomendations on tweeter if I go for a simple plug and go route? I'd like to get the EXL tweeter mounts and just wire them into the front signal with crossovers. Also I have to do something about this rattling rear deck may as well treat the whole thing even though the 3rd brake light is the main culprit. Hell may treat all the doors too while I'm any it any reccomendations on that step too? (pretty broke till next months but I'll do this piece by piece)

 

start with the factory mounts for tweeters, it's budget and fitment driven.

start by shoving a sock or something between the third brake light and the rear glass - if it solves the rattle then you can come up with a more elegant solution with the same effect.

for treatments, my build log is a good reference and includes a lot of photos.

 

First off, I'd like to say sorry if I wasn't supposed to re-open or reply to this post/thread. I'm new to forums like this and not too aware of the customs or inner-forum rules. I'm a quick study though! This is closest post on here that I can find that can relate to my problem.

I have a 2014 Accord v6 EX-L (no nav) coupe. I have installed a 900Wx2 amp using 4 gauge wiring with a just recently added 3 farad PPI cap in-line before the amp, powering a single Rockford Fosgate Punch Z 12" 4 ohms in a sealed box. I used a PAC LOC and a harness that I found to clip right into the stock subwoofer harness.

Problem: On Thanksgiving this year, I was the one in a new car broken down on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow truck. When I finally got the car diagnosed at the local Honda dealership, they said I threw over 15 codes and they attributed it my amplier drawing too much and the computer noticing the surge or decreased voltage. I was informed that this car has electronics that run from the battery even while the car is on and the alternator is working. They tried explaining to me that since the computer is trying to regulate the voltage going to the electronics a draw from the amp wouldn't help the situation and things like my FCW forward collision warning system will fault and stop working (which it did btw) and my car went into this limp mode where the fuel pump wouldn't give the engine any gas and I would try restarting the car and the engine would turn over but the fuel pump wouldn't send fuel so it would choke and shut off. All ECU safety measures I'm assuming. They disconnected my amp's hot wire from the battery because I had everything mounted already, and said I should either have a honda dealer evaluate any after-market adds or be satisfied with the stock sub that the car comes with. They cleared the codes and everything worked fine. Mind you, this was before I bought the capacitor. I received the capacitor this weekend, charged it correctly and re-wired my system using the already ran wires from the amp and using 4 gauge wire to run back to the amp and the second ground. I drove it around for about 10 minutes and the car died again the same way it did on Thanksgiving, where I feel the car starting to bogg a little at idle and then I suddenly cant give it gas no matter how many times I step on the gas and/or restart the car. I pulled the in line fuse from the hot wire coming off of the battery and waited for the tow truck to drag me to my house a few blocks down the street. By the time the tow truck driver got there, (about 20 minutes) he asked me to try and start the car again, and it started right up no problems. It gurgled a little bit the first time but within seconds everything seemed normal. Obviously, the capacitor didn't turn back on and the sub was then not working but I had a fully functioning vehicle again.

I'm at loss now, do I add a secondary battery? Do I need to upgrade the alternator? Maybe just get a bigger battery? Oh and the alternator tested fine and the battery is brand new.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any and all opinions and help!

 

welcome. we typically like to see new threads created for new issues but it is fine to add to an existing thread that is similar.

sounds like you have a faulty piece of equipment or a wiring issue. a properly installed amplifier will NEVER cause the problems you're encountering. I have a 2014 Accord and I have studied the charging system a bit. Myself and many others have added sound systems much larger than what you're describing with no issues electrically.

first step is to eliminate the cap altogether. a small cap like yours isn't providing much, if any, benefit. if not wired correctly or if failing, a cap can do more harm than good.

the second step is to verify your fusing. you should have a fuse at the battery, sized for the wiring used. 8ga needs a 60A fuse. 4ga needs a 120A fuse. 1/0 can be fused as high as 250A. this fuse will limit current to protect the vehicle.

detailed photos showing how the system is wired may also help me identify any possible causes.