You can wire the speakers right from the deck. It makes things 10x easier. Instead of wiring the stock wires to the deck, wire aa set of wires to the correct channel in the back of the deck to the amp channels.(Rear Left-deck to Rear left on the amp) You can go to a sound performance store or circuit city, best buy..... to get one tube with 9 different wires in it. The remote wire will run from the factory remote wire to the second amp. You dont have to change the other remote that your subwoofer amp is wired to. Ground both of your amps in the same location. Its a better ground. How many RCA outputs does your deck have, also if you have subwoofers pre-outs.

 

so i would just take out the the existing wires and plug in the new wires where they came from? why do i need a remote wire if it's hooked into the deck with all the other wires?

my deck has 6 rca cables and then sub pre-outs, so technically 8 rca slots. i have the sub in two, and ipod in two, and the other 4 are free.

 

Yes the wires from the deck, hook them up with the wires that are going directly to the amp. The stock harness will not be wired except for remote and battery. You just need a longer one to connect the amp to a power source. The amp needs to power on somehow. With the RCAs buy another pair if you use a 2 channel amp and 2 pairs if you get a 4 channel amp and run them straight back to the amp from the deck. Get some good RCAs for the mids and highs amp. The better the RCAs the better the signal.

 

Ok, so you leave the factory wire hooked to the speakers, but then run more wires off of those wires to the amp? If not, then I'm confused as to how the speakers are connected to anything. And if so, how could the stock factory wiring handle amped power? I thought they'd burn up.

 

The wires that will be going straight to the amp connects to the wires behind the deck. The factory harness, the only wires that will be still connected are the power(red), ground(black), and the antenna wire(remote, not the one your amp for the subs are connected to.) The same thing I thought when I did mine but it kind of confused to explain but the speaker wire goes to the deck than amp. Dont hook the factory harness SPEAKER wire to the amp.

 

ok, so wire (A) from speaker to head unit, then run a second wire (B) from the same hole that wire (A) went into, to the amp? If that's the case, then I can understand that. Couple more questions I might as well ask why I'm here:
1)Have you ever seen the gauge reducers that let you put say a 4 gauge wire into this adapter so the other end will fit in an 8 gauge hole in an amp? I have one, and there's no hole to screw it into the amp slot, so I'm not exactly sure what that's all about.
2)When my sub is really hitting hard, the trunk rattles. However, it only rattles when the trunk lid is DOWN. I have no idea how to stop that. I don't think they make dynomat for the trunk lid, and if they did, I don't see how that'd work.

 

Heres a much simplier way:
1. Buy some Speaker Wire.
2. Skip wire (A)
3. Take Brand new wire and connect to speaker wire that is on the head unit.
4. After connecting to the head unit, run to amp.

The gauge reducer is called a distribution block. It it suppose to have one big end for the 4 gauge wire and than at the other end it should have 2 seperate outputs so u can run 2 amps.

For the trunk lid dynamat makes a wedge pack for custom installations. Also the bulk pack but it is kind of pricey. Use the trunk pack on the trunk lid. 2 Sheets is recommended. They are 35 a pack but you can catch a lot of deals on the internet and espcially ebay for cheaper. You can also try a cheaper sound deadener called edead, fatmat, brown bread, and there are many others. They also make a spray(liquid spray) that u can use out of a can to dead the sound even more. I went to NAPA and got the spray and it was cheaper and they said it works really well. Its an undercoating. Use both in combination to get the most results. There is also the a liquid so you can paint it out with a roller. Im using the spray can cause it is easier.

 

ok, so the wire from the head unit just stays connected to the speaker, and then the new wire goes from that wire to the amp?

this is what i was talking about with the gauge reducer http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Gold-0-G...QQcmdZViewItem

thanks for the tips on the deadening.

 

Wire from the head unit goes to the wire that will be connected to the amp. The factory harness speaker wires will not be attached to anything. Except the 3 I told u, black red and blue-Remote, power, and ground

 

OK, I'm sorry I know this must be frustrating you. What are the actual speakers directly connected to, the head unit or the amp? That's what I'm trying to figure out.