you'll want new battery terminals.
- a fused distribution block (4awg in and 8awg out)
- split loom (5/8") for engine bay wiring
- a firewall grommet
- 6' of 8awg wire for amp grounds with 8awg ring terminals to ground the amps to the chassis.
- speaker wire (16 awg is fine) to run from amp to speakers/behind HU. you can reuse factory speaker wiring for the fronts and intercept it behind the HU.
- speaker wire, 12awg, for the sub.
- wire terminals for amps (if they need spade terminals)
- wire terminals for speakers (if you didn't use them already, now is the time)
- insulated vinyl wire caps (to cap off unused wiring at HU - i.e. speaker wires)

general tools include a screwdriver set, a set of metric sockets (8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm to remove seats), wire cutters, wire strippers/crimper, 3M Super 33+ electrical tape for insulating crimped connections, zip ties (6" and 8"), an electric drill with bits for making holes (grounding, amp mounting, and firewall if you cannot find a grommet). there should be a grommet you can use that is above the gas pedal on the firewall. you'll have to remove factory sound barrier material to find it.

 

Thanks for the reply with the info and specifics! Do you have a favorite online vendor for car audio parts?

 

Crutchfield is mine. I've been using them since the 80's when everything was mail order. Never been disappointed and always got great service. You can find stuff a little cheaper at other places but I prefer the peace of mind with Crutchfield as their customer service is the best in the biz as far as I'm concerned.

 

I'll second Crutchfield. No worries with them and you get everything you need plus detailed instructions and great customer service.

 

keep_hope_alive:

I came across several other posts you made, on different car audio forums, regarding sub placement for best sound quality. Do you still recommend placing my MB Quart 10" in the rear driver's side corner? I was planning on a sealed enclosure...

If I were to use the area in the trunk compartment directly behind the seats for an amp rack, what would that do (if any) to sound transfer into the passenger compartment?

 

I always had good luck with the subs against the rear seat firing towards the back of the car. I tried several locations when I first got my 07 Accord with my 10" Polk Momo and I got better output with it rear facing then I did with it corner firing. You do get some corner loading this way but I still liked it rear firing best.

Your best bet is to slap together an amp and sub and then try it positioned in each corner and then rear firing. Depending on the sub and your listening habits, you might find a better spot for it.

 

corner loading in the rear passenger (or driver based on jack placement) gives the most natural response.

behind the seat gives boosted output at a narrow band of frequencies where the trunk reflection adds constructively with the direct wave. it's like adding a narrow band bass boost - frequency depends on the distance from sub to rear of the trunk.

i've experimented with many locations over the rears. i prefer one in the corner - fabbed to fit in the factory pocket for both trunk space utilization as well as sonic performance.

certainly, experimentation is great - but you can't experiment with a perfectly made corner enclosure (due to the angle requirements).

bass will travel through most materials as long as they are not constructed air-tight and they are thin. i have made an amp rack behind the rear seats before - accessible if i unlocked the rear seats. it wasn't air-tight (nowhere near) and i was still happy with bass response.