Audio power fried?
#1
06-21-2010, 01:30 AM
Audio power fried?
I tested the 12V "Constant" wire. And it was dead. I guess it shorted out. I tested it with a Multimeter. All of the other wires were fine I guess.
This is for a 1994 honda accord LX.
The wire I'm talking about is White w/ Red Stripe, that changes into a White w/Blue Stripe when it comes to the stereo connector.
Is there a quick fix I can do? or how much would it cost to get replaced?
This is for a 1994 honda accord LX.
The wire I'm talking about is White w/ Red Stripe, that changes into a White w/Blue Stripe when it comes to the stereo connector.
Is there a quick fix I can do? or how much would it cost to get replaced?
#2
06-21-2010, 01:01 PM
check the fuses.
you could run a new 10awg wire to the battery, fused for 30A a the battery (inline ATO fuse holder).
you could run a new 10awg wire to the battery, fused for 30A a the battery (inline ATO fuse holder).
#4
06-21-2010, 05:28 PM
sure. the easiest way is to buy a 10awg amplifier installation kit. it will contain most of what you need for under $20. you'll also need split loom and heat shrink (sized for 10awg wire and fittings).
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before making any wiring changes or connections. it will be the last thing you connect when finished.
you'll put a ring terminal on one end of the ATO in-line fuse holder and connect that to the positive battery terminal (leave the fuse out until you're finished). use a 10awg butt splice to connect the in-line fuse holder wire to the new power wire.
route the 10awg power wire from the battery to the factory radio location. use black split loom to protect the power wire in the engine compartment (same thing factory wires are protected with - sold at autoparts stores). zip tie the new power wire to factory wiring, mounts, etc. with no more than 12" between zip ties.
getting the new power wire through the firewall can be tricky - just follow the factory wiring - you can usually push the new wire through the rubber grommet. this will typically be on the driver's side of the fire wall, near the top. from under the dash, on the driver's side, you will have access to this grommet and the new wire. i usually push the wire through from the engine side when dealing with existing grommets.
once under the dash, zip tie the power wire every 12" or so - split loom is still a good idea here as well. i will wrap the split loom with yellow electrical tape every so often to identify it as 12V constant, or label it.
route the new power wire to behind the head unit and connect using a 10AWG butt splice and heat shrink. i also recommend upgrading the head unit ground to 10AWG and grounding directly to the vehicle floor - using an existing bolt is fine if you sand away any rust or paint to expose shiny metal.
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before making any wiring changes or connections. it will be the last thing you connect when finished.
you'll put a ring terminal on one end of the ATO in-line fuse holder and connect that to the positive battery terminal (leave the fuse out until you're finished). use a 10awg butt splice to connect the in-line fuse holder wire to the new power wire.
route the 10awg power wire from the battery to the factory radio location. use black split loom to protect the power wire in the engine compartment (same thing factory wires are protected with - sold at autoparts stores). zip tie the new power wire to factory wiring, mounts, etc. with no more than 12" between zip ties.
getting the new power wire through the firewall can be tricky - just follow the factory wiring - you can usually push the new wire through the rubber grommet. this will typically be on the driver's side of the fire wall, near the top. from under the dash, on the driver's side, you will have access to this grommet and the new wire. i usually push the wire through from the engine side when dealing with existing grommets.
once under the dash, zip tie the power wire every 12" or so - split loom is still a good idea here as well. i will wrap the split loom with yellow electrical tape every so often to identify it as 12V constant, or label it.
route the new power wire to behind the head unit and connect using a 10AWG butt splice and heat shrink. i also recommend upgrading the head unit ground to 10AWG and grounding directly to the vehicle floor - using an existing bolt is fine if you sand away any rust or paint to expose shiny metal.
Last edited by keep_hope_alive; 06-21-2010 at 05:31 PM.
#5
06-22-2010, 05:30 PM
sure. the easiest way is to buy a 10awg amplifier installation kit. it will contain most of what you need for under $20. you'll also need split loom and heat shrink (sized for 10awg wire and fittings).
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before making any wiring changes or connections. it will be the last thing you connect when finished.
you'll put a ring terminal on one end of the ATO in-line fuse holder and connect that to the positive battery terminal (leave the fuse out until you're finished). use a 10awg butt splice to connect the in-line fuse holder wire to the new power wire.
route the 10awg power wire from the battery to the factory radio location. use black split loom to protect the power wire in the engine compartment (same thing factory wires are protected with - sold at autoparts stores). zip tie the new power wire to factory wiring, mounts, etc. with no more than 12" between zip ties.
getting the new power wire through the firewall can be tricky - just follow the factory wiring - you can usually push the new wire through the rubber grommet. this will typically be on the driver's side of the fire wall, near the top. from under the dash, on the driver's side, you will have access to this grommet and the new wire. i usually push the wire through from the engine side when dealing with existing grommets.
once under the dash, zip tie the power wire every 12" or so - split loom is still a good idea here as well. i will wrap the split loom with yellow electrical tape every so often to identify it as 12V constant, or label it.
route the new power wire to behind the head unit and connect using a 10AWG butt splice and heat shrink. i also recommend upgrading the head unit ground to 10AWG and grounding directly to the vehicle floor - using an existing bolt is fine if you sand away any rust or paint to expose shiny metal.
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before making any wiring changes or connections. it will be the last thing you connect when finished.
you'll put a ring terminal on one end of the ATO in-line fuse holder and connect that to the positive battery terminal (leave the fuse out until you're finished). use a 10awg butt splice to connect the in-line fuse holder wire to the new power wire.
route the 10awg power wire from the battery to the factory radio location. use black split loom to protect the power wire in the engine compartment (same thing factory wires are protected with - sold at autoparts stores). zip tie the new power wire to factory wiring, mounts, etc. with no more than 12" between zip ties.
getting the new power wire through the firewall can be tricky - just follow the factory wiring - you can usually push the new wire through the rubber grommet. this will typically be on the driver's side of the fire wall, near the top. from under the dash, on the driver's side, you will have access to this grommet and the new wire. i usually push the wire through from the engine side when dealing with existing grommets.
once under the dash, zip tie the power wire every 12" or so - split loom is still a good idea here as well. i will wrap the split loom with yellow electrical tape every so often to identify it as 12V constant, or label it.
route the new power wire to behind the head unit and connect using a 10AWG butt splice and heat shrink. i also recommend upgrading the head unit ground to 10AWG and grounding directly to the vehicle floor - using an existing bolt is fine if you sand away any rust or paint to expose shiny metal.
Okay, So I need based on what I see.
ATO in-line fuse holder
split loom
Heat shrink
alot of 10AWG Wire.
Anything else? and what stores would have these items. Also are any of them on amazon you can recommend? (Since I have Amazon store credit)
#6
06-22-2010, 07:06 PM
RF 10awg amp kit with fuse holder, 17ft of power wire, 3ft ground wire, ring terminals, and probably some 10awg but splice connectors.
http://www.amazon.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGA.../ref=de_a_smtd
1/2" split loom is larger than you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-3-fkmr0
1/4" split loom is probably exactly what you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-2-fkmr0
http://www.amazon.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGA.../ref=de_a_smtd
1/2" split loom is larger than you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-3-fkmr0
1/4" split loom is probably exactly what you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-2-fkmr0
#7
06-22-2010, 07:21 PM
RF 10awg amp kit with fuse holder, 17ft of power wire, 3ft ground wire, ring terminals, and probably some 10awg but splice connectors.
http://www.amazon.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGA.../ref=de_a_smtd
1/2" split loom is larger than you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-3-fkmr0
1/4" split loom is probably exactly what you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-2-fkmr0
http://www.amazon.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGA.../ref=de_a_smtd
1/2" split loom is larger than you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-3-fkmr0
1/4" split loom is probably exactly what you need
http://www.amazon.com/American-Termi...9&sr=8-2-fkmr0
Is that everything I need? Also Should I go with the 1/2" split loom if I need extra space; or something?
(Im good at working on computers, but electrical for a car is a different thing. Alot more moving parts. :P)
**EDIT**
Would this be better?
http://www.amazon.com/Boss-KIT-2-Com.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
(Idk if it comes with everything you said to get. Also I prefer something with Amazon Prime Enabled lol.)
Last edited by MaskedMan; 06-22-2010 at 08:20 PM.
#8
06-23-2010, 12:12 PM
Avoid Boss anything. I like Rockford Fosgate and Streetwires amp kits.
Anything else you may need will be readily available at any autoparts store or walmart. You're saving a lot of money buying the split loom and amp kit on line, compared to local stores. But any extra ring terminals, butt splice connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, etc. can be purchased locally.
You also need tools - wire strippers, wire crimpers, etc.
As far as split loom size - 3/8" would be ideal.
Anything else you may need will be readily available at any autoparts store or walmart. You're saving a lot of money buying the split loom and amp kit on line, compared to local stores. But any extra ring terminals, butt splice connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, etc. can be purchased locally.
You also need tools - wire strippers, wire crimpers, etc.
As far as split loom size - 3/8" would be ideal.
#9
06-23-2010, 05:32 PM
Avoid Boss anything. I like Rockford Fosgate and Streetwires amp kits.
Anything else you may need will be readily available at any autoparts store or walmart. You're saving a lot of money buying the split loom and amp kit on line, compared to local stores. But any extra ring terminals, butt splice connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, etc. can be purchased locally.
You also need tools - wire strippers, wire crimpers, etc.
As far as split loom size - 3/8" would be ideal.
Anything else you may need will be readily available at any autoparts store or walmart. You're saving a lot of money buying the split loom and amp kit on line, compared to local stores. But any extra ring terminals, butt splice connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, etc. can be purchased locally.
You also need tools - wire strippers, wire crimpers, etc.
As far as split loom size - 3/8" would be ideal.