Audio/Visual Electronics Wired up? Everyone's got some sort of electrical modification... let's hear about it here.

The Big 3 upgrade

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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by falkore24
Hmmmm .... a few points/corrections: You don't have to remove any stock grounding straps, but with the upgraded grounding, you may remove any for aesthetic purposes. Technically, the more metal, the better the ground.
Falkore I'm not sure how correct that is. Electricity will always take the path of less resistance, so having that small wire still connected isn't going to much if at all. That's why I said you can either replace it or leave it. Also less resistance equals more current right? Or does it just help stabilize the voltage?
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #12  
19Accord97
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For the ring terminals, should I make it so the terminal lies flat against the battery and surround the terminal post itself, or should I get one that is vertical and comes into contact w/ the bolt that tightens the clamp around the post. What size or ring terminal should I get for a 4 gauge wire? I am going to do the wire from the ground to the chassis first.
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:26 PM
  #13  
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I'm not really following, I bought battery terminals that have bolts on them, like a marine battery. I feel this is the best way to add many things to the battery with easy, and good continuity. Using the bolt that clamps down on the battery is not a good way to go about it.

This is the type of terminal I use at the battery, mine is a bit beefier but same style.


EDIT: You want the ring terminal to just fit over the bolt, too big and your giving up some contact area. And for a 4awg wire you want a 4 awg terminal. Don't don't crimp them with pressure pliers like some do, use a hammer crimper or what ever they are called. If you do go the pressure pliers route you better solder that wire to the terminal.
 

Last edited by t00fatt; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:32 PM.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #14  
19Accord97
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Alright, well I understand now. I will just use a small brass hammer and hammer down one side, then hammer the side of the terminal ring so the sides will be overlapping the wire and then hammer them down again. I can't really explain but it will hold.

Solder the wire to the terminal? Does solder work well with gold plated terminals?
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #15  
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The hammer crimper I'm talking about isn't a hammer it is used with a hammer, there are different types. Don't use those gold terminals that are halved at the wire connection, the don't last. I only use marine terminal and they are tinned copper so they solder beautifully.

What ever you do use these terminals, if your engine wire comes lose you can potentially do damage to it. I know you can with older outboards as mentioned before.
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:00 PM
  #16  
19Accord97
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Where do you find these solid tinned marine terminals? Autozone?
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:08 PM
  #17  
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Maybe? I can't imagine the auto industry only using those halved style big ring terminals. Any marine store will have them. I use only ancor stuff which is pretty expensive but worth it on a boat.
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #18  
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Hmm....I dont even know of any marine store around here thats within 20 minutes. I'll check Autozone 2morrow since I have a GC and gotta look into renting a spring compressor.
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:25 PM
  #19  
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I really don't know about auto electrical hardware, everything me and my dad stock up on is marine grade.
 
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:29 PM
  #20  
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I'll let you know what I find tomorrow!
 



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