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G1P 2012 Accord upgrade to make GF happy

Old 10-02-2011, 01:32 PM
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Default G1P 2012 Accord upgrade to make GF happy

Okay, first I just want to start off by saying I'm new here and new to car audio. Second, thanks to keep_hope_alive and neophyte for helpful information. So here is my situation...

About a week ago I drove home a new 2012 Honda Accord SE which I love but noticed that the stock sound system is lacking so I decided that an upgrade was necessary. With little background I decided to have my Polk Audio db651 speakers installed in the rear of the car and a powered subwoofer I had in my old jeep installed in the trunk (I'll get the specs on the sub soon). After the install I noticed that the speakers sounded a bit distorted even with the sub off. When I faded the speakers to just the front it sounded better. Also the sub just didn't sound right, maybe there was too much rattle plus my girlfriend hates the thump of subs so now I'm caught in a bit of a conundrum...

I want to upgrade my system but with a few stipulations and a few concerns.

1. I had the Polk db651's for a while and never used them until now (bought of craigslist) so I don't know if they are even any good. Is there a way to test them or should I just start with new speakers?

2. I love a nice bass but I don't know if a subwoofer is necessary. I want a system that just greatly improves on the stock system and it seems as though maybe new components in the front will be a better investment from what I've read. Plus my girlfriend hates it. Can I accomplish an improved bass experience without using a sub?

3. I mainly listen to hip-hop and r&b music

4. I want to keep the stock radio

5. My budget is very low... around $450 MAX

6. I'm willing to do the work myself if it isn't too difficult

Where should I go from here? If either of you (neophyte or keep_hope_alive) were in my position what would you do?

Thanks in advance!
Old 10-05-2011, 01:30 AM
Senior Member Stereo Guru..Almost A Mod :)
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I will try to be as non biased as I can. speaking for me, I would tell my GF to get over it. it is my car. (my radio stays turned down when she is in the car, not cause she doesnt like it, but she likes to talk and I cant hear her if its up.) If you are only going to spend $450. I would:
PowerBass S-6C (s6c) S-Series 6-1/2" 2-way Component System (front) $90
VIBE Audio BDPRO8M-V1 (BDPRO8MV1) 8" Pro Audio Car Midbass Driver (rear probably need to do some custom baffles and some snipping of deck)$70, front speakers on their own channel and rear bridged) $260
4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit (wire)$55

that puts you $25 dollars over budget. but that will get you bass without having to put a sub in the car. it will get your components in the front to give the sound stage you want with your highs up front none from the rear and an amp that will power them without any clipping with some high quality wire on top of it. Like I said modification will have to be done to the rear deck and this would require a good bit of work and time. minor materials will come up with this install like mdf and what not but go to a local cabinet shop and see if you can get some scrap for cheap. They will probably give it to you. this way you can make the baffles. there is no deadner in this price but with a budget under 500 it is going to be hard to get deadner in your car too. KHA might have some different advice that will suit you better. but this is how I would go with that budget.

If you are dead set on not going over 450 then you could get cheaper fronts or rear's but I think those rears will suit what your looking for better. This is a major project. not a weekend thing for most people. dont worry about doing it all at once. buy it in pieces. install as you get parts. you could buy the rear woofers first and put them in the deck. you dont have to hook them up right away. then order your front speakers. you can install them on you stock wiring. then order the amp and amp kit. once this is in this will be the major thing that needs to be done in a day if you do not want to go without music. I would run all the wire. then I would install crossovers. then I would hook it all up. this way you are not without a radio and if you have to stop half way through then you still have music. I could get this entire install done in a day, but I am willing to dedicate 15hrs+ of a day of solid work to get an install done. I know a lot of people are not able to dedicate that kind of time. biggest thing I can say is take your time and do it right. 2hrs of research will save you 10 hrs of headache.

also I know I was over budget. I have a tendency to do that. I feel that I would rather go a little over and get what I want. I was about 500 over budget in my own car.

Last edited by neophyte; 10-05-2011 at 01:44 AM.
Old 10-05-2011, 07:46 AM
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I agree that front components with rear deck woofers are a good start. That is what the factory system tries to do.

There are hundreds of product possibilities.

When you can't afford new, buy used. I buy/sell used speakers, amps, subs on a regular basis. With used gear you budget is fine. The gear neo listed could be had for 1/3 the price if bought used.

Step 1: a 4 channel amp. Even the stock speakers will sound better with an amp. Get one with high level inputs and an auto turn-on to simplify installation. Or buy a 4 channel LOC from David Navone Engineering. You will want to intercept factory wiring at the head unit, so getting a 70-1721 and a 71-1721 will let you intercept wiring without cutting anything...
More to come
Old 10-05-2011, 07:56 AM
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Step 2. Replace the front speakers with components. Reuse factory door woofer and dash tweeter locations.

The factory wiring to the front doors goes through a molex plug making reside tricky. You can reuse the factory door speaker wiring and use a 72-7800 plug adapter at the front speakers.

Mounting the new door woofers will require a mounting baffle. You can buy or make these, I have a sticky for door speaker installation with lots of pictures. To get bass you must have good seals. I use weatherstripping foam to make new seals. Just look at the foam around the front and back of the factory speaker, and recreate those seals.

You can remove the factory tweeters from the mounts and install the new tweeters behind the factory grills. You have to be creative here, plumbing strap is a easy method of securing the new tweeters.

You have to install the passive crossover that comes with the component speakers. It wires in-line between the amplifier and the woofer/tweeter. Since you are reusing the factory wiring, you can try to stash the crossovers behind the head unit. This way you can save running a lot of new wire. You can also locate the crossovers in the trunk and reuse factory wire for the front doors, but either way you need to run new wiring from the crossover to the tweeters. I can draft up a diagram showing this.

Old 10-05-2011, 08:09 AM
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Adding a bit of bass can be achieved with some rear deck woofers, but they wont play as low as a single 10" sub in the rear corner of the trunk.

The rear deck is prone to buzzes and vibrational. This can be solved with some creativity and use of foam or felt between hard parts. I think a single 10" in a sealed box in the rear driver side corner of the trunk will be your best bet. Ideally, you would make a box out of fiberglass and 3/4" MDF that fits the contours of the rear pocket area.

The rear sub(s) will be on the rear channels of the head unit control, so you can simply use the fader to control how much bass mixes with the front speakers depending on your passengers.

You want to avoid tweeters behind you'll. The Polk you have are ok, but not needed for your application. You can buy 6x9 woofers, for the rear deck, but 6.5" woofers are easier and cheaper.

Another option for speakers/subs is Parts Express. They have a large selection of individual speakers that are suitable for a car. You could easily get tweeters, woofers, and sub woofers for under $200, even less, that would outperform the factory speakers. I can out together a few options going that route as well.

Your biggest concern is the depth of the factory speakers. It would be helpful if you could remove one of the factory front door woofers and take pics and measurements. You need to know what is the available depth by measuring the space between door metal and window glass. The next measurement is top mountk the thickness of the factory speaker including foam. Once you know those two numbers, you can choose a speaker and mounting baffle thickness.
Old 10-05-2011, 09:46 AM
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like KHA siad you will never get as low with the mid bass drivers. maybe what your girlfriend doesnt like about a sub is the boom. you can always get a sub with less power or turn your sub down. most people's subs are loud but a sub does not have to be. if tuned properly a sub can be installed and most people wouldnt recognize it as a sub. many cars now come with a setup similar to this with a sub in them. you can get low's without being loud. just spend some time tuning.
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