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-   -   HP filter on speaker amp affecting sub amp (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/hp-filter-speaker-amp-affecting-sub-amp-23169/)

t00fatt 02-13-2009 11:30 AM

@mhoffman, so the sound is not only when you turn the radio off? Even while playing a song it makes the noise? When parked and not moving does it do it less or not all? My guess would be a bad RCA connection causing the popping sound.

@Moddage, and zach, what moddage is saying makes sense. I guess me and mac didn't think of that, as you really supposed to run your own speaker wires, epically if you are paying good money for an install. If they did what moddage is saying it would cause that. But let me get into detail on exactly what that would cause i that was the cause so you can say if that sounds similar to what is going on.

When the speaker 3/4 channel is set to full there should be no affect on the sub, but when you switch to HP the bass would be decreased. But when the speaker amp is switched to full, it shouldn't go to full on the sub. As the crossover on the sub amp is already on LP, so it's not going to let any highs play. But if the LOC is spliced in after the speaker amp, and you switch the speaker amp to HP the only thing that would happen is the bass would be decreased because of the HP.

Good thinking there moddage, I know I would have never even thought they would have installed it like that. The stock wires are tiny.

Moddage 02-13-2009 11:58 AM

haha.. trust me.. i try not to think of how they install stuff..

I've seen install jobs at "professional" places first hand.. and i couldn't believe my eyes..

typical "pro" install (at least at places like BB and a couple others around here) uses stock wiring harness to carry the signal to the speakers.. they basically just run wires from the amp to the stock wiring harness and splice in.. as if that does any good.. and there's an explanation for it too.. they are LAZY instead of routing new wiring through the doors and installing the same gauge wire from the amps to the new speakers LIKE IT SHOULD BE they tend to SKIP that part and use the existing wires.. so the new larger wire from the amp is basically useless as it is still being choked down by factory wiring.. :confused::(

i don't understand what they are thinking when they do such idiotic things.. but that's exactly why I do ALL of my own work..

I'm IPC Class 3 certified for soldering surface mount electronics.. so having worked on extremely reliable connections like that as a job a while back.. i don't even think to use butt connectors. and i solder ALL of my connections.. i never use splice connectors or butt/crimp connectors of any kind if i can help it.. the only kind i WILL use is a spade/ring terminal and quick disconnects for some connections.. and most of the time i use a type that allows me to solder them onto the wires after crimping. then put a piece of heatshrink over it and voila, reliable connection. yes.. soldering everything takes more time.. but it's worth having the peace of mind in KNOWING that it's not going to come loose ever..

actually.. i solder all my power wire connections too.. crimp in a vice to temporarily hold.. then the propane torch, paste flux, and solder comes out..

one thing about soldering is if you're in a pinch and don't have spade connectors to make amp connections.. just tin the wires and screw them down.. no need for a spade connector then

~Moddage

zachyzissou 02-13-2009 12:50 PM


Originally Posted by Moddage (Post 155631)
@ zachyzissou :

Judging by the looks of it .. by the type of connectors used. and product line.. you had bestbuy install this.. .. am i right?


now.. I THINK i've got your answer..


your 3/4 channel output.. is the one affecting the subs right..

well.. you have a line level converter coming from the stock headunit.. into the speaker amp.. where's the converter for the subs tap into..

Just judging from general TALKING with best buy car audio employees.. they hire people that aren't usually too competent.. and really don't belong installing stuff in people's cars.. and they also assume that EVERY person that comes in there.. has NO clue about anything

so assuming you did have best buy do it.. here's by BEST guess..


Head unit to 4 channel LOC... into the speaker amp... then they bumped their heads and went OH CRAP we still have a third LOC for the subs.. .. oh well i'll just tap it in AFTER the speaker amp.. that will work fine.. just leave the HPF off and he'll NEVER know..


what it sounds like to me.. is an incompetent worker at the install place (like i said i'm pretty sure it's best buy by the looks of it) forgot the sub LOC and when he realized it.. just spliced in after the speaker amp..

this would CERTAINLY have an affect on the sub amp.. because you'd be cutting down the signal to the speaker amp and having the LOC after that would mean it too was also affected..



So.. where exactly does the LOC for the subs tap into ?


EDIT:

I'm almost 100% certain I am right.

http://www.installedge.com/products/images/55412.jpg

THAT is the LOC they used.. the inputs come from the same side as the RCA outs..


Look VERY carefully at this pic

http://gallery.me.com/zachgonser/100...G_2920/web.jpg


Factory Wiring Harness spliced into the LOC for the speaker amp..

Speaker amp outputs spliced back into factory wiring harness to supply music to the speakers..


LOOK where the LOC for the subs is tapped into... it appears to be AFTER the speaker amp outputs that return into the factory harness..

Can you confirm this for us zachy?

If I am right on this one.. and i think i am.. that LOC for the subs needs to be tapped in BEFORE the other LOC.. ;)


~Moddage


your 100% correct on everything.

so basically should i head up to best buy and raise all hell?

t00fatt 02-13-2009 12:55 PM

Yes, tell them you paid them to install it right. And they need to run wires from the amp to the speakers CORRECTLY. If not your speakers won't be getting all the power your amp has to offer. Tell them to splice the sub into one of the rear speaker signal directly from the HU, and adjust the gain on the speaker LOC. The speaker they splice into will need a slight increase on the gain.

If all else fails I hope they gave you contract or at least a receipt, take them to small claims court you don't even need a lawyer for small claims.

zachyzissou 02-13-2009 01:15 PM

haha yeah i have a receipt and contract. they say they stand behind their work 100% so i'll take it up there now and report back later.

zachyzissou 02-13-2009 02:22 PM

alright so basically his fix was.... turn the HP filter on and then i'll just crank the sub amp so it sounds good. yeah, no. i'm sick of dealing with these idiots. can you guys somehow explain to me in a fairly simple way how to fix this?

finch13 02-13-2009 04:48 PM

You want the sub amp LOC spliced in before speaker amp LOC, you should be able to just switch them around, depending on what connectors they used, probably butt splices or crimpable wire caps.

Moddage 02-13-2009 05:03 PM

wow are you serious... i'm sorry but this makes me laugh really hard.. i'm not laughing at you so don't get me wrong.. i feel for you trust me.. but instead laughing at the fact that a best buy.. that ISN'T the one by me.. does crappy work.. just like the one near me.. and i'm assuming every other one in existance...

Their whole "Geek Squad" thing is a JOKE too.. now car audio is "geek squad" too.. not just computers.. and trust me.. if they hire the same typical worker they hire at the one near me.. they know NOTHING about computers..

If you have a CompTIA A+ certification.. they WILL NOT hire you for computers.. their reason is because you're "overqualified" hmmm.. what's that say about their service ?


anyway.. it's not that hard of a fix if you're handy with a set of wire cutters/strippers and have some crimp caps handy (i think walmart sells them... but may be wrong.. )

basically cut the wires for the connections you need to modify.. ALWAYS cut the connections apart and strip wire and install new crimp caps so you don't leave little wire bits left over.. cut as close to the crimp cap as possible so you still have some play room...

then strip all wires appropriately.. being careful not to nick or damage the wire.. twist wires together to make the splice.. and put a crimp cap over it to make the connection secure..


so in your case.. remove the subwoofer LOC from the circuit it's in.. dismantle the circuit for the rear speakers BEFORE the main speaker LOC.. splice the sub LOC into the wires accordingly.. crimp cap it all up.. and voila.. you should be good to go..




Now hear this.. if i were you.. i would not even waste my time doing it myself.. i would talk to a manager of the store and explain to them EXACTLY what they did wrong .. and that they back their work up and THEY need to fix this FREE of charge.. or you WILL be calling corporate, giving them the store number (should be on the reciept) and telling them all about the incompetent workers they hire to do work that needs to be done by a professional and asking for a refund..


usually.. if you're calm and collect about it and don't yell too much.. they will grant your wish and make them fix it for you..


if that still doesn't work.. then do exactly what i said.. call corporate.. tell them about it.. ask for a refund or reimbursement of some form.. and fix it yourself..

Best Wishes to ya

~Moddage

zachyzissou 02-14-2009 02:21 AM

no like i totally get what your saying. i think i've decided to say screw the LOC's and get a new headunit. i'm sick and tired of dealing with morons who get hired with no knowledge of car audio(the guy specifically told me they hired him $10 an hour without any prior knowledge). and i'm pretty sure i like your idea of just going right to corporate. i like the sound of that refund after i put over $1000 into that system i expect to get some damn customer service. now that i've been through this i'm 100% installing my own stuff for the rest of my life.

Moddage 02-14-2009 10:17 AM

haha.. yeah.. that's why i do all my own stuff.. i just don't trust anyone enough to let them install something in my car.. plus when i KNOW first hand what most shops actually do/use to install stuff.. i cringe.. (maybe cringing is a bit exaggerated but whatever)


LOC's are fine for a decent sounding system.. when installed properly haha..

but yeah a headunit is probably your best bet.. you'll get much better results with an aftermarket HU.

IF corporate does get you some kind of reimbursement.. it will probably be a gift card to best buy.. so.. i'd probably wait until you figure out for sure if you can get anything back and if so.. wait til you get it then go buy a HU..

saves you money :cool:


also.. check out www.bcae1.com

spend some time on that site and pretty soon you should have a pretty darn good understanding of how car audio works and how installation should be done.. I've been in it for a while now, and i learned from my older brother who was in it wayyy before me.. and that site still has valuable information to me..


well, hope everything works out for ya!

~Moddage


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